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Vigor Gaming Monsoon II (754, 939, AM2, LGA775) TEC cooling!


Angry_Games

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Got the 80 watt TEC swapped out. Disassembly was really quite easy. I'll post some pics later. Idle temp right now with E6700 at stock voltage/mhz with C1E enabled on Asus P5W is 14c CPU/20c per core. Display is reading 23/24c. Fan is NOT cycling up and down as it usually does at anything below 28c. Once load is applied the fan does spool up. Strange thing though is that when I finished doing this Saturday night the display temp was in the low/mid 30's. Ambients are a good 10c lower now so perhaps that has something to do with it. TEC is connected directly to PSU now as well.

 

Load temps after about 10 mins of OCCT are 29~33c cpu/41~44c per core. Not great but a good 10~15c lower than before at same voltage/mhz.

 

Ambient is 20.9c right now...

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Interesting read here;

 

http://www.dansdata.com/pelt.htm

 

"...Any big chunky CPU cooler can easily dissipate 216 watts without getting so hot that its fan melts or some other spectacular failure occurs. Well, as long as the fan's spinning, it can, anyway. But the best socket air coolers still have thermal resistance up around 0.2° Centigrade per watt. Which means that if they're getting rid of 216 watts, they'll be 43.2° above ambient.

 

If the ambient temperature's, say, 25° Centigrade, that puts the heatsink temperature at 68.2°. So a TEC with a 72° ΔT, like this one, should be keeping the CPU below zero! Hurrah!

 

Well, no. As you approach the maximum heat transfer rating of a Peltier, the ΔT falls, and will actually end up at zero when the Peltier's running at full power - which means the thing won't work any better than just connecting the CPU to the cooling device directly.

 

This only applies, though, if the CPU's outputting enough heat to saturate the Peltier's transfer capability, which it probably won't be. If you've got an 80 watt Peltier with a 72°C ΔT, like this one, and your overclocked CPU's outputting, say, 60 watts, then the cold side will be only one-quarter as cold as you might naively expect - 18 degrees below the hot side temperature. If you want better performance than this, you have to stack Peltiers side by side (in parallel) to reduce the power each has to move, or on top of each other (in series) to reduce the hot side temperature each Peltier sees..."

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umm Congrats Old guy on the swap!! i'md just drooling at the notion of swap and good temps. i wanna try it too.... i'll order the 80w from Frozencpu soon!!

 

Save yourself 15 bucks and find one on Ebay for 10 bucks or less including shipping...

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OldGuy- nice mod work.

 

I was wondering how ur controlling the TEC? You have it directly connected to the PSU, but are u controlling the power output somehow?

 

Did the original TEC have any adhesive or was it just squished between the 2 plates?

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OldGuy- nice mod work.

 

I was wondering how ur controlling the TEC? You have it directly connected to the PSU, but are u controlling the power output somehow?

 

Did the original TEC have any adhesive or was it just squished between the 2 plates?

 

I'm not controlling the TEC in any way. Directly connected to the PSU. I had hoped that that would yield better results with the stock 50 watter but it didn't.

 

The TEC is sandwiched between the upper and lower assemblies. My pics will show what I mean. Thermal grease is applied to the TEC. A bit much really :) All that holds the two seperate assy's together is those four spring loaded pins. Compress the the spring to a point where you can get a pair of needle nose pliers on the "C" clip and pull. Repeat four times. After that you simply unscrew the four screws at the top of the HS shroud and you have two seperate HS's...all the screws that you see are simply to hold the mounting plates in place. The "C" clips are tiny and will make yer butt pucker trying not to lose them....DON'T!!!! :D

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I was going to test out a 226W TEC and see what there all about. Not in a computer, but I'll hook it to a HS. See if I can cause some moisture. Once I have a better understanding of how it going to work, I'll try a smaller one with the Monsoon. We know an 80W does a better job.

 

I hope I can follow yer advice. Hey where's that magnify glass. haha

The "C" clips are tiny and will make yer butt pucker trying not to lose them....DON'T!!!! :D

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Wouldn't go anywhere as extreme with a 226w unit. You have to be able to remove the heat generated by such a monster...and before even going down that avenue you have to be able to supply power to the beast.

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Thats what I figured, a lot of heat to remove. Just going to test with one, I think it will be fun. I was going to use and old BFG 650W PSU to run it. These are just thought in my head so I'm not sure if they'll all work together. I did get the 226W TEC though.

 

EDIT: I use going to use a rheostat to control voltage.

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Thats what I figured, a lot of heat to remove. Just going to test with one, I think it will be fun. I was going to use and old BFG 650W PSU to run it. These are just thought in my head so I'm not sure if they'll all work together. I did get the 226W TEC though.

 

EDIT: I use going to use a rheostat to control voltage.

 

I also considered using a Sunbeam fan controller as it can handle 20 amps per channel if I'm not mistaken...also consider that TEC are usually rated at higher voltage...i.e. 15 to 16 volts to get their max wattage rating...so my 80 watter at 12 volts really isn't running at 80 watts. Same goes for the 50 watt unit I suspect. Don't think it was truly rated at 50w X 12v...

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