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About Angry_Games

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    Have No Life
  • Birthday 08/28/1973

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  1. hi

    this forum has more information about games...............

    Best Savings Accounts

  2. what's the difference when you can download the game from any computer you can log into? It's actually better this way since you never have to worry about losing a disc, scratching a disc, etc.
  3. http://www.cartalk.com/content/rant/gastax/ click the "Listen Now" thing at the bottom and listen to the whole thing...I have to say, I wholeheartedly agree...smartest commentary I've heard in a LONG time...
  4. I have a great air compressor with the moisture filters and narrow-nozzle guns etc...best $150 I ever spent...EVER...I normally go through about $50 worth of canned air a month with all the customer computers + the 6 or more computers constantly running in the lab...this compressor + moisture filter etc have paid for themselves about 10x over so far in the few months I've had it
  5. I have two of these Asus 4850's and they are the best video cards for the money I've ever purchased (which replaces my Radeon 9700 Pro and 9500 Non-Pro that mods to 9700 Pro as the best value/bang-for-the-buck I've ever had0
  6. you can also re-encode your movies to either WMV or Xvid AVI and the 360 will play them natively (right off a memory stick). That's all I do...drop files into WinAVI Converter 8.0 or just get (or re-encode) Xvid/Divx movie files which 360 supports
  7. most of the time it is plugged in as we bought an extra AC power adapter to plug in near the HDTV...but without playing any 3D games, I get about 2-3 hours out of my battery...really just depends on what I'm doing. If I'm working on school stuff like MS Word and browsing web etc, I definitely get closer to 3 hours (standard 6-cell that comes with it). If I have say Winamp going or watch some vids, you know, kick in the cpu more than just word processing, it drops down to about 1:45-2:00 or so. Plus it is using Vista-64 which sucks battery life out much worse than XP does (I had XP on it for a bit and I could easily get almost 3:30-4:00 out of simple Word and Firefox/net use). As for recommending laptops with AMD X2 cpu's...I absolutely recommend AGAINST it. The Intel Core2 based laptops are rarely/barely more (in fact, when I shopped around, the prices were almost exactly the same and in some specials the Intel Core2 ones were cheaper) in price, but they are definitely better in terms of power consumption as well as performance. Especially if you can get into the newer 45nm Core2 cpu's like the P8400 or P8600. Highly recommend you do not get any laptop with AMD cpu's.
  8. look for the D-Link or Zonenet KVM's at Newegg. I've used them for years and they are sub-$50.
  9. Let's see...you make a mistake because you were too lazy to read (or maybe just in a hurry?) and you expect Newegg to compensate you? I think, after reading this entire thing, that you are in the wrong in your expectations. As others have noted, Newegg bends over backwards for customers almost every single time, but in this case, they are in the right pretty clearly. next time, before complaining, read everything until you understand it. Trying to say that they weren't "obvious" is wrong, and the onus is on YOU, the consumer. "Not standard for what a US customer would receive from Newegg US" is just plain foolish and makes you look lazy or illiterate or just unreasonable (or all 3). You aren't in the US. You didn't read the terms properly. YOU the customer need to take some responsibility instead of expecting big corporate to reimburse you or grovel at your feet. They've made long-term, lifetime customers out of just about everyone...I don't agree that they should eat teh $20, that is YOUR responsibility no matter how you try to argue it.
  10. Angry_Games

    Such A Waste

    learn to read instead of just assuming you know the answer to something. I'm on my 3rd 360 and none of them were my fault. I know plenty of guys that have been through 3+ 360's and not a single one of them was user-fault. If you'd bother to read, you'd realize that the early 360's simply overheated because of insufficient cooling, which is what happened to the first 2 I had. My roommate has one with an HDMI which also means it is a 65nm version, which doesn't overheat, and has never given him a problem. My 3rd one finally was replaced with a beefy heatpipe + 65nm process which = zero problems for me now as well. On topic - my brother hasn't mentioned any problems with his PS3 but he mostly uses it for Blu-Ray movies instead of games. off-topic-on - I'd buy a PS3 in a heartbeat if they'd lower the price to something competitive like $199. I could easily see myself buying one without a hdd for $199 since it is not even close to the asswhip involved with upgrading hdd's on the 360 (either raping yourself of $135-$200 for 120GB hdd w/transfer kit, or hacking the firmware etc)
  11. usually a request problem to the bios that locks the machine and causes it to refuse to POST. The old days of IDE cables, this was not that uncommon. As a computer boots, the BIOS processes hardware requests from the devices attached and powered on. If there is an interruption in this communication, POST can *and usually does* fail. Try using a different SATA cable as I bet that clears the issue up. You can also take advice of poster above and try the SATA cable you have on another computer (cables won't make your drives kick the bucket except in the most rare and extreme circumstances...there probably wasn't anything wrong with your hdd that you had replaced...probably a bad cable causing communication problem which caused the hdd's SMART bios to incorrectly deduce imminent hdd failure)
  12. no it wont affect FPS. Once the game's engine loads, the textures load, and the physics routines load, you are running directly out of memory. The only time your hdd will be accessed is during one of the following scenarios: 1. you change levels/load new levels (must read data from hdd into RAM) 2. you play a game that has load-on-the-fly mechanics (think GTA IV or other games where there is no level change yet a large world to explore). You will access the hdd in bits as new areas load on the fly, but you shouldn't notice this even on a single hdd. 3. you don't have enough RAM (either gpu memory or system memory) and so constantly hitting your swap file. Those of us that remember Battlefield 2 know exactly what this is...no matter how awesome your system was, if you only had 1GB of system RAM, you were constantly getting stuttering from the hdd constantly using the swap file to exchange data in and out of RAM. In this scenario, no amount of hdd's in RAID-0 will help you, this is a pure 'lack of enough RAM' issue *4. something like your anti-virus kicks in with a scan while you are playing...RAID-0 won't help you here either as the Anti-Virus scanner needs to hit every file on your hdd, which of course RAID-0 would make this go faster, but AV scanning eats up a lot of cpu time...so not only is your hdd constantly being hit for reads during a scan, your cpu is giving up 50% or more of its time to the scan, leaving your game stuttering and usually unplayable. Possibly more scenarios than this, but these are the major ones. Hdd's have zero impact on fps, only on load times (ie anything that resides on the hard disk and must be read into memory = affected by hdd speed, RAID-0 performance, etc) Well, you might not see a point, but that doesn't negate the fact that there is a very REAL performance increase when adding drives into a RAID-0 setup. Just because a single hdd works perfect for you doesn't negate the reality that RAID-0 (and consequently, RAID-5 in webservers and enterprise servers) is a necessity for a LOT of users. Gamers probably not, but game developers, most definitely so. Photoshop/graphic editors most definitely. Music editors? Yep, it is almost a 'must have' for music editing, and it is most definitely necessary for video editing. I don't speak from inside my own butthole about this...I do this stuff regularly (record raw audio for processing/mixing, and capturing raw video off DV camera for real-time video editing). You should be careful what you repeat like a sheep that other people say when it is #1 false and #2 doesn't pertain to you and your needs (and possibly #3 doesn't offer anything to the OP's topic, only flexes your opinion, which doesn't mesh with OP's questions as to what performance RAID-0 might give him and if it is something he needs or just wants. RAID-0 on standard magnetic hdd's scale the same as SSD's since both use the same interface (both run on SATA II interface at this time). SSD's will eventually replace magnetic drives, and of course flash memory is much faster (nanoseconds) when it comes to access times than magnetic hdd's (milliseconds), but the interface is still the bottleneck, which in turn limits SSD's to being barely better than magnetic drives until you factor in the cost...and see that magnetic drives still triumph. moral of the story is: c'mon kids, use your heads...logic and reason instead of repeating like bleating sheep the dogma you've "read on the internet" or "heard from a friend" (no matter how good of a friend...nonsense is still nonsense).
  13. personally, I always use RAID-0 in my gaming rigs. Whoever says there's no performance increase for games or other uses is smoking a lot of crack. I typically use 3-4 80GB SATA II drives together, and the performance increase is definitely noticeable regardless of which program you are using. Games load faster (level and texture load times definitely decreased), programs open faster, writes to the hdd are definitely much faster, etc. Data loss or RAID failure or corruption is always a real possibility. In 10 years, I've had a total of ONE RAID-0 set fail (out of possibly THOUSANDS of setups, whether my own or customers or friends). If you are adamant and vigilant about backing everything up regularly, there's no reason to not run RAID-0. In my home server, I use RAID-1 for storage, and RAID-0 for everything else (like ripping dvd's, rendering movies in Sony Vegas, etc). All of the other desktops use RAID-0 and all are tied into the server for backup/storage just in case one was to fail. With hdd's being incredibly cheap (I've just set up 2x250GB 16MB cache hdd's in RAID-0 and it is even better than the 3x36GB 10,000RPM Raptors I've traditionally used in my personal gaming rig for the last 3 or 4 years), there's not much extra $ in doing RAID, and the benefits are worth it, especially for gamers (since again, levels and textures load much faster than off a single drive)
  14. not sure about UK but I shopped around here in USA for a couple of months until I found the right day of deals at HP (back in October mind you, should be better now with xmas right around the corner) This is what I got for US$ 803.55 (+ 5% state sales tax, free shipping though) HP DV5T-1000 CTO laptop Intel Core2Duo P8400 (45nm, 2.26Ghz, 3MB L2) 4GB DDR2-667 RAM Nvidia 9600M-GT 512MB gpu 160GB 5400RPM hdd 15.4" 1280x800 LCD wireless Media Center remote (it stores in the PCMCIA/cardbus slot!) DVD-RW combo (specials now are offering Blu-Ray combos free) 802.11g wireless (a good one, Intel I think, have to check device mgr) Vista-64 (replacing with XP because Vista still sucks in my own opinion) I can play these games (probably more, but this is what is installed right now as I type): Fallout 3 with full graphics options Sins of a Solar Empire World of Warcraft CoD4 + WaW RS Vegas 2 (not the greatest, but then again, pretty %#@$ good! lol) Plus it does Photoshop CS2/3 (I have 3 installed, had 2 installed), Sony Vegas, serves as an HTPC also since it has HDMI port built-in! Shop around...get something with a Core2Duo (not an Intel Dual Core) and 2-4GB RAM and at least an 8600M-GT (prefer 9600 though) and you'll be able to do just about everything your desktop can do! Trick is to shop shop shop...brands aren't really in the decision other than a known name brand (and think about extended warranty as laptops tend to break down a lot quicker than desktops especially when you are gaming). Don't forget a good notebook cooler too like the Zalman
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