The ULTIMATE MBM 5 Settings/Help Thread

[soundx98]

OK, we're both on the same track now. Thanks

 

Hopefully it will help top_cat78 as well.

[madian225]

Hi

 

I am using the expert board and has loaded the NF4 sensor files from the beginning of this thread as well as the NV 7.0a file for my Nvidia 7800GTX card.

 

The video drivers that I am using are the 81.98 and the M/B drivers is the 6.70.

 

I am using 3 WD 35G Raptor HD's in a RAID 0 (using ports 1,2 &3) and a 75G WD Raptor on port 4 for my games and a further 75G WD Raptor drive on the SiL port 5 for my I-POD and general downloads and all driver files, documents etc.

 

All the MBM 5 files have worked so far, apart from the GPU ambient temp which I cannot get to work and have read somewhere that it will not work with a GTX card?

 

The reason for this post is this:

 

How can I go about finding and adding the temp for the other SMART HD?, I have enabled the SMART option both in BIOS and also in the MBM 5.

 

I am assuming that I am currently recording the port 4 HD temp? if so how do i find where to get the temp for the HD on the SiL port 5?

 

thanks.

 

If this has been mentioned already in the past 74 pages or so then I do apologise now.

[soundx98]

You are really much better off using _xhp_'s plug-in for nVidia cards.

I would suggest re-reading post #1166 as well as the links to _xhp_'s fine work in the 1st post in thread. It offers much more info (and you seem like a full fledged Nerd like the rest of us)

 

Remember to open up the dashboard completely so that nothing is hidden.

 

While SMART will not read the RAID array it should definately pick up the 2nd Raptor.

 

Sensor #7 should be the 1st temperature sensor open/available and would need to be selected. Hope this helps.

 

[jetjaguar]

nevermind .. figured it out

[soundx98]

Under temperatures select Sensor 7 for 2nd HDD.

Then select the HDD you wish to monitor

Select Visual and Label sensor

Then save by selecting "apply"

 

Do the same for Sensor 8 and you should be good to go.

 

EDIT: Great, glad you got it. Guess I'm typing too slow. But I'll leave it up for others.

[timmorris]

Regarding CPU temp, the bios reports the temp incorrectly. From reading through various threads unless it is widely fluctating add a 10 degree offset to the CPU temp in MBM and it should be pretty close.

 

If you use smartfan or smartguardian or even the BIOS to control your fan speeds remember to deduct 10 degrees from the fan temp control settings (set full on to 40 degrees instead of 50) otherwise you'll suffer from inadeqate cooling.

 

Tim

[timmorris]

I'm sure I've missed it and if I have can someone please point me to the relevant post but is it possible to calibrate the displayed voltages using a DMM?

 

Tim

[caebron]

All the MBM 5 files have worked so far, apart from the GPU ambient temp which I cannot get to work and have read somewhere that it will not work with a GTX card?

 

The 7800GTX does not support ambient temp readings.

[soundx98]

@timmorris - Autochthon on Voltage Compensation and test points

http://www.dfi-street.com/forum/sho...2&postcount=640

 

bigger pictures of test points in Post #2 of this thread.

 

While I agree with your statement regarding CPU temps reading low on the "Expert", most have found that the "Standard" LanParty's temp readings appear to be close. Case, case air flow, and ambient temps can make a huge difference in readings.

[_xhp_]

I'm sure I've missed it and if I have can someone please point me to the relevant post but is it possible to calibrate the displayed voltages using a DMM?

 

-> http://www.dfi-street.com/forum/showpost.p...2&postcount=640

[timmorris]

Thanks for the replies on measuring Vdimm. I'm going to put a Zalmann passive heatsink cooler on the chipset (the chipset fan at full speed is louder than my Panaflo H1BX at full speed!) when I take the board out of the case I'll take the voltage measurements - is it worth measuring at different states and taking an average or is the conversion factor pretty much linear?

 

I've hooked up some custom cables and although the current on the H1BX label states .6A that is the STALL current - in use it draws about 340mA at full speed so it is more than safe to run it from the mainboard header. I run 4xYS-TECH 8025LB fans in my ATCS-110 Coolermaster case - two intake fans behind the grille in front of the 3.5inch drive bays (all unused - the Zalman HD coolers fit in the 5.25 drive bays below the DVD writer), and two exhaust fans one in the "blow-hole" and one below the power supply all hooked up to the FAN3 connector using Y-leads and in total they 300mA and are reasonably quiet even when running at full speed.

 

(the inside of the case is lined with Akasa matting, and the fans are mounted using Akasa silicone insulators). It isn't as quiet as water cooling, but it works and is silent when at idle.

 

Edit: I asked Antec where I could buy a second Molex to floppy power lead to connect to the board (I've got a crappy white adaptor plugged in at the moment) and they supply them FOC.

 

Tim

[soundx98]

Well, you could always do a "blow by blow" of how you do the measurements.

Sorto of a how to on the set up.

Same sort of thing Like the excellent post by Autochthon.

Voltages at Idle, voltages at load (wonder what the difference is)

things to watch out for when measuring.

We could use a complete "walk-thru" by someone in addition to Autchthon's.

Never too much info here.

 

Pics and screenshots always make it more fun and informative to read.

 

Bonus points for pictures of anything that catches fire during tests.