My Future Sound System For My Future Car

[FunkyMonkey]

If you run a mono amp to two subs, it cuts it in half. You want a two channel amp and either run each channel to each speaker, or bridge them. You're getting closer, but you still need either a bigger amp or smaller subs (in power, not size)

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k i think i got it

the specs for that MTX amp are

* Amplifier Type: Mono

* RMS Power: 400W x 1 @ 4 ohms

* THD at 4-Ohm RMS Power: <2%

* RMS Power: 800W x 1 @ 2 ohms

* Speaker Level Inputs: Yes

* Preamp Outputs: Yes

* Built-In Crossovers: LP

* Bass Boost: 0-18 dB

* Frequency Response: 20-200 Hz

* Signal to Noise Ratio: >100 dB

* Fuse Rating: 3 x 25 amps

 

so if i put it in a 2ohm load confiquration eah of my 2 subs will have 400watts going to them

[InvaderTrax]

Yes, but you gotta make sure your subs can handle 2 ohm. Also, make sure you've got quality wires. Lower ohms = more current flow = more stress/heat

[old_oc'er]

I would have to say get some kicker subs thats what i have in my SUV and they hit pretty hard with a California 1200 watt 2 channel amp Kicker

[airman]

yeah....don't go easy on the wiring. i mean, don't go OVERKILL, but guagewise...probably between a 2 and a 4. people who recommend 00 wiring are just retarded...no one is going to want to spend that much for wiring. it won't make a knick of difference.

 

anyways...infinity makes nice subs. as well as kicker. however, jl audio gets my vote. go with something like a w3, or a couple of w0s. also...ported boxes get my vote if you're not too entirely worried about trunk space. now for amps....pheonix gold has perhaps some of the best amps that i've seen (within a certain budget....not some insane 5,000W monster). i'm going to do a new system soon, a 12" w6 and a pheonix gold 400w xenon. that'll take me a long ways.

 

when it comes to car audio, make sure you don't go cheap, because you WILL be stuck with it for a while...it's not the best investment in the world. your value will go down. alot. just be prepared hehe. after a while, get a capacitor. 1 farad should do ya good. it'll keep your lights from dimming on big beats, and your subs will be able to hit harder and keep the punch.

 

i'd rather choose 1 awesome sub over 2 decent subs. a friend of mine has an 8" w6...and hell, it blows you away...you see it, and you're like...psh. i got in his car, he turned it up, and holy CRAP it's insanely loud. JL audio IMHO is the best SUB company out there. kicker comes in second.

 

now...did you say that your budget was $500? i saw that somewhere. so i'm going to make a system for that. my recommendation would be probably a 12" w3v2 paired with a pheonix gold r5.0:1, and a box of your choice. i think the JLs like the ported boxes afaik.

 

if you have any questions, PM me, i used to work for tweeter.

[LobbDogg]

A couple things I've learned with doing my own installs in my cars is like what everyone is saying, use quality wiring. Also the subbox can make or break the sound of your system. A poorly built box can really wreck the sound you may be after. Don't cheap out on the amp as its all about power. A low powered amp can be just as bad as overpowering your sub. Good luck with finding a deck that has separate sub outputs for under $200 CAD. When I bought my replacement deck about 1 month ago before I quit Future Shop, the cheapest one available was still $225 on my staff discount. If you want some help installing or whatever let me know cause I live in Edmonton as well. I used to compete back when I was in high school, but just run a single sub system now. Good luck.

 

Oh and yeah, secure the box down, otherwise whenever you take corners a little fast, the box will slide all over in your trunk and possibly pull some connections loose or break some of the connectors.

Edited March 29, 2005 by LobbDogg

[FunkyMonkey]

on cardomain the suggested wire option for the Infinity Reference 1230w's said it should be in a 2ohm setup

also i cant find any amps within by price range that can output 600watts on 4ohms

 

can most subs now handle 2ohms or do they have to be special?

[HoLoDreaM]

yeah....don't go easy on the wiring.  i mean, don't go OVERKILL, but guagewise...probably between a 2 and a 4.  people who recommend 00 wiring are just retarded...no one is going to want to spend that much for wiring.  it won't make a knick of difference.

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my friend has 1/0 gauge and it makes one hell of a difference...

 

 

and JL makes clearer sound but not as hard hitting bass

[geeman74]

im gonna be different and say get alpine subs

kicker are good but not as tighter bass as alpine with the mid price

for cheap good quality cable use the cable used on mig welders alot of people use it to cut costs

you want good earth cable to i use silver now not copper that improved sound at high levels

speaker wise dont get 6x9s the sound isnt as good as mids and tweaters

if your using more than one sub use that many amps 2 channel bridged for each (if you have money)

get a powercap if your headlights dip with the bass if they dont you dont really need one

 

as stated at begining of thread sony subs etc arent that good but ive had no problems with head units the sound of them is normally good ( i know there is better)

[FunkyMonkey]

heres my newest setup

this might be final

MTX 801D amp - it puts out 800watts

http://www.cardomain.com/sku/MTX801D

 

Infinity 1230w - rated at 300watts RMS

http://www.cardomain.com/sku/INFREF1230W

 

my only concern is that will those subs handle 400watts each because their rated at 300watts