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I Think I'm Ready....


IVIYTH0S

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Ceramique is a non conductive option. Use it for bare chips like NB or video.

 

I'd try the HS before lapping. It may be fine. The convex of the 120 may be just right for the concave of the CPU (or which ever way it goes). May even turn it 90 degrees and try. If no improvement then lap away.

Edited by Syngensmyth

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how would I know whether I should lap it or not, I'm sure it will be a dramatic improvement over my present heatsink as it is

and also what grade sandpaper would be best?

 

which arctic silver would be best

Choice #1

Choice #2

Choice #3

I'd go with choice 3 as you'll never go through the larger choice one and I think the stuff goes bad after awhile. I have that smaller tube I bought probably 4 years ago and I still haven't finished it tho it is running empty.

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To know if it needs lapping, you need a straight edge to check it. Lay a straight edge across it at different angles (side to side both directions and corner to corner both ways) and look for and gaps under the straight edge. Gaps indicate it might need lapping. Check the CPU top to see what the shape of that is. You may find out the the CPU top bulges out and the heatsink bottom cups in making a perfect fit. Check both before you lap. If you need to lap it, start with 400 grit sandpaper then move to 800 grit. Some people finish with light pressure on 800 grit while others go as far as 2000 grit for a mirror finish. There is a debate that says that going to 2000 fills in the microscopic pores with metal shavings reducing the thermal transfer. Others say the mirror finish is the smoothest finish possible and increases thermal transfer. I haven't heard anyone report any significant temperatures for proof. Personally I think the mirror finish is just for looks. I'd use 400 grit, 800 grit, then very light pressure on 800 grit. Make sure to lay the sandpaper on a smoot surface such as a piece of glass. Read some of the guides here and other places so you know what to do.

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how would I know whether I should lap it or not, I'm sure it will be a dramatic improvement over my present heatsink as it is

and also what grade sandpaper would be best?

 

which arctic silver would be best

Choice #1

Choice #2

Choice #3

 

 

when you trial test for contact patch....I put the TIM on and seat the heatsink and then pull it right back off and check the contact patch...if I like it I run it...if not it's lappy time...the surfaces should have more contact in the center...

 

I start with 320grit and finish off with 400grit...if I want it smoother then I will finish it with 600grit...

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O M G the TRUE is ENORMOUS!

I knew it was big but GEEEZ!.

I know it'll fit with one scythe in there but i wonder about the second, worst case I will just run one for the TRUE and the other under my CD ROM drive to blow over my memory's fins because the rest of my fans won't blow near there and with my old cooler not blowing the air down towards the mobo (and distributing it evenly over cpu and some airflow going passed the ram). I'll tell you all my result of how much lower my temps are (I won't lap it yet, I want to see how much it helps right out of the box)

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I usually just set it on the CPU dry, no mounting, and run it for a reference point. Pop into BIOS and look at temps. This feels dangerous and if so please disregard my foolishness. But it gives me a feel for how things are progressing when I start blobbing goop and tightening springs and adding fans.

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I usually just set it on the CPU dry, no mounting, and run it for a reference point. Pop into BIOS and look at temps. This feels dangerous and if so please disregard my foolishness. But it gives me a feel for how things are progressing when I start blobbing goop and tightening springs and adding fans.

 

:ph34r:

 

Not even any thermal paste?!

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it's installed now and I'm running a push pull with the Ultra Kazes...I'll Prime95 SmallFFts, these are quieter than the one 92mm I had on my old cooler! sweet (though those fanclips suck spheres to get on) unfortunately I didn't have any zipties

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