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Watercooling Idea


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Water has 4 times the specific heat of air. In plain English/non-scientific terms, that means it takes 4 times as much energy to heat water to a certain temperature than it does to heat the same weight of air to the same temperature. Water is 4.1855 Joules/gram*degree Kelvin and air is the standard at 1.012 Joule/gram*degree Kelvin. So water can carry 4 times the heat that air can. So raising the water temp 1 degree would raise the air 4 degrees. Water can absorb more heat as it passes through the water block, that's why water cooled systems run cooler than air cooled systems. You can use the formula Q=mcT where Q is the energy in Joules, m is the mass of your air or water used for cooling, c is the sepcific heat constant of you air or water, and T is the change in temperature of your air or water. You can play with that formula to calculate which method would be best.

 

You can also use a different version of the equation Q = m*c_p*deltaT as:

 

Q_dot = m_dot*c_p*deltaT

 

Where Q_dot is the time rate of change of heat (also known as power - TDP of your processor in this case). m_dot is the mass flow rate (which you can get knowing the density of air or water and the volumetric flow rate of the air or water - from your fan or pump specs).

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Yeah these are great formulas, but they don't take into account how well the heat transfer is done...

 

For a WC block, the heat goes from the CPU heatspreader to the WC block and then to the water which makes full contact with it.

 

For a HS, the heat goes from the CPU heatspreader to the heatsink base, to the heatpipes, to the fins and then to the air...

 

So I'm pretty sure the heat transfer is better with water. So that would means it penalizes the air again over the water...

 

 

But iKillSteal talked about a spray-on sealant. Is this easily removable after ?

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How easy it is to remove will depend totally on the type of coating used. Some manufacturers that provide spray-on(as well as other types) sealants have solutions to dissolve those sealants as well. An easy to remove, albeit fairly messy, way of going about sealing your components without having to resort to a spray-on would be to use some kind of dielectric grease like this. Smear a ton around the socket(and some in it to protect the pins) and pretty much all around where condensation could occur and you're good to go. Not exactly the most pretty solution but at least all it'll take to clean up is a nice long rinse and some paper towels.

 

Assuming that it's going to get very cold outside where you live around the time the wars start, I'd recommend just doing it outside. Back in the day(January) when I still had my Asus board(Before it exploded and was refused an RMA though Asus itself was at fault for it's failure! :angry2: ) I opened up my window while I was OC'ing the e2140 in my sig. It was about 7c outside and at 2.8GHz(350MHz*8 @ 1.55v) I was peaking at 9c full load(folks were not too happy about the spike in our heating bill for that month :lol:) with a tuniq tower slapped on it. Doing it outside is a viable option and it's much easier to work with stuff if it isn't smeared in grease.

 

Edit: Typos...

Edited by iKillSteal

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How easy it is to remove will depend totally on the type of coating used. Some manufacturers that provide spray-on(as well as other types) sealants have solutions to dissolve those sealants as well. An easy to remove, albeit fairly messy, way of going about sealing your components without having to resort to a spray-on would be to use some kind of dielectric grease like this. Smear a ton around the socket(and some in it to protect the pins) and pretty much all around where condensation could occur and you're good to go. Not exactly the most pretty solution but at least all it'll take to clean up is a nice long rinse and some paper towels.

 

Assuming that it's going to get very cold outside where you live around the time the wars start, I'd recommend just doing it outside. Back in the day(January) when I still had my Asus board(Before it exploded and was refused an RMA though Asus itself was at fault for it's failure! :angry2: ) I opened up my window while I was OC'ing the e2140 in my sig. It was about 7c outside and at 2.8GHz(350MHz*8 @ 1.55v) I was peaking at 9c full load(folks were not too happy about the spike in our heating bill for that month :lol:) with a tuniq tower slapped on it. Doing it outside is a viable option and it's much easier to work with stuff if it isn't smeared in grease.

 

Edit: Typos...

 

Well you make me hesitate again... I might just go bench outside... And moreover If I buy a LGA775 Wblock it will be maybe only for this war because after LGA1366 will come out...

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Do the water idea, outside?

 

Yeah, thought to it too... This would prevent any condensation because the air would be colder than the water.

 

I'll think to that...And I will see if I can get a Wblock for cheap. Does anyone have one to sell ?

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Probably would be best to get one cheap as you said once they release LGA1366. That will probably be the time I actually get watercooling.

 

Once they release LGA 1366 ? I'm thinking of doing that for the summer wars... What I wanted to say is that if I buy a Wblock, I will use it only for the summer wars because then after I'll go back to air cooling and LGA1366 will be released, so I'll buy a new mobo/CPU probably, and then my Wblock wont fit on these.

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Ya I know but it will be a pain in the *ss...

 

No finally I think I'm just gonna go bench outside. As iKillSteal said, it's simpler and it will probably be enough to handle high voltage heat. Anyways I will also voltmod my 8800GT and this one is on air too.

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hardnrg has something in his sig about a waterblock, haven't paid much attention to it though. He posts a lot in the OCC Teams area, check it out.

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