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Crazy_Nate

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  1. Crazy_Nate

    OCC dead?

    'Sup
  2. How to successfully build a computer Also known as, how Crazy_Nate builds a computer Often, when somebody builds a computer, the necessary steps to ensure stability are not taken. In my opinion, the easiest way -- and best time to do this, is when you first get your hardware. Here's my method of figuring everything out. I have used it over and over and it's even helped me figure out problems that have occurred after a working computer had been running for a while. If you're in a hurry to get started...jump straight down to "Preliminary Preparations" Choosing hardware The internet is a wonderful place, with lots of computer oriented communities who are more than willing to give advice on the best hardware...OCC being a top option Reviews are everywhere. Some may be a little biased, some not. I would average the opinions of several reviews before pushing the 'buy' button. If you're going to get verification from an online forum, please post: Your budget. The purpose of the computer (gaming, CAD, rendering, etc). Often, for gaming, knowing which games you want to play is very helpful...and what resolution! Where you are. This can help people locate stores or online venues that you can actually use. Beyond that...I have only one major hardware suggestion. Buy a quality power supply. For cases, the good ones give you better airflow, which, results in lower temperatures. A rule of thumb (pardon the expression) is that for every 10 degrees you lower the temperatures, it doubles the effective life of the component. Not sure what is used for reference, but, you get the point. Good fans and filters are an adamant computer user's best friend. I happen to like the medium speed 120mm Panaflo's as a good compromise between noise and air flow (other people have their favorites, as well). Fan controllers are sometimes necessary with fans like this. If you must go with a cheaper case, take a look at the modding link below. A blowhole and / or intake and exhaust mods may be necessary. Since airflow was brought up, I'll say a couple words about it. A computer case is a box with a lot of aerodynamic obstacles in it. Fans work to move cool air to components that need cooling, including the CPU, graphics card, chipset / northbridge / southbridge, harddrives, and the power supply, to name a few. Consider an analogy to a case as a pipe with a rough interior. The more stuff inside (obstacles) the greater the pressure drop along the pipe section...like having a rougher wall. Fans can provide a certain amount of volumetric flow rate (usually in CFM - cubic feet of air per minute), however, these values are usually for no pressure restrictions on the fan (which reduces the flow rates...). Simply put, some fans may not perform exactly as they're listed. Some manufacturers may list a stagnation pressure as a form of rating. In order to alleviate some of the pressure inside a case...exhaust fans are used. I typically like to have matched in- and out- flowrates, erring on the side of higher intake (for the same reason they do it in buildings, infiltration - for computers, this means dust would sneak in through the edges on a computer case with an internal gauge pressure that is negative - essentially, lower pressure inside, than normal ambient atmospheric pressure). A note about heat flow and other sorts of technical bits... There are 3 types of heat transfer...conduction, convection and radiation. We won't worry about the last because of the relatively low temperatures that computers operate at. Conduction happens between two surfaces, in contact, with different temperatures. Convection happens between a fluid (in computers...air, water, or a refrigerant) and a surface with a temperature difference between the two. There are two types of convection...natural and forced (and a third, if you consider mixed convection where natural convection is not a negligible portion of the two, combined). Natural is driven by buoyant forces (hot air rises, refrigerant evaporates within a heatpipe and rises, etc) and works best in vertical orientations. Forced convection, is, well, forced. Usually by a fan, or pump. Think of any heatsink with a fan attached. Within convection, there are some important concepts. One of which is flow regime. Laminar, transitional, or turbulent, in order of increasing Reynolds number (from no mixing, to lots of mixing). Laminar requires the least amount of pressure and is the quietest, but has lower heat transfer properties. Transitional is in between. Turbulent has larger flow requirements relative to a characteristic length or diameter. Simply put, laminar is smooth, turbulent is rough. Certain things like adding bumps, ridges or similar aerodynamic devices to roughen the surface can change the heat transfer properties - usually for the better. Short of modeling every little component and custom designing heatsinks, fans and ducting...the best you can usually do is have high quality fans / heatsinks (think about how you choose to orient them) and cool ambient temperatures. So, with all that said...take care of your computer and it will last a long time. Temperatures and dust are enemies thwarted by good cooling, fans, filters, and the occasional dusting (with an air can - not air from a home or shop compressor <may contain water>) or vacuuming. Preliminary preparations Download Memtest86 from: Download the latest motherboard drivers from your motherboard manufacturers website, as well as, any other additional drivers you may need. If you wish to upgrade your BIOS to a later version, download a bootable disk version (I would not recommend trying through windows). Download the latest graphics drivers from: or Burn the Memtest86 ISO. Put all your drivers on to a CD - or flash drive. Download and burn any stability testing programs or benchmarks, as well as, temperature measuring programs. My recommendations are: Prime95: Multiple Threaded Version 25.6 OCCT: http://www.ocbase.com/perestroika_en/index.php?Download 3DMark05: 3DMark06: 3DMark Vantage: Coretemp: Realtemp: MBM5: http://www.thetechrepository.com/showthread.php?t=74 CPUz: GPUz: Everest Home Edition: http://oldversion.com/program.php?n=everesthome or (for newer): [*]Verify that you have access to an operating system install disk. Some of the aforementioned programs are for windows... [*]Verify that you have adequate space to build your computer. A desk is nice. Light is good. If you have carpet, you may have to take precautions to not discharge any static electricity. Paul has a good suggestion about static discharge here. Use caution and be patient. It will help remove any headaches. [*]Find some tools. I would definitely recommend at least two sizes of Phillips head screwdrivers. [*]Find a tube of TIM (thermal interface media / material)...if you are going to need it (IE. an aftermarket heatsink). I happen to like both AS5 and Ceramique (for it's nonconducting / inert properties). [*]Get ready to have some fun.
  3. Crazy_Nate

    My first gun shall be?

    Double action revolver and DAO pistol triggers are very different than the single action revolvers / pistols. They're long, sometimes very heavy trigger pulls. You probably can't dry fire a .22 revolver in a shop (the firing pin will damage the gun). You can probably dry fire a centerfire revolver to get a feeling for the triggers. I really like revolvers, but I don't really have a use for one at the moment. Maybe if I have $$ to burn. .38 special is pretty cheap to shoot (probably around the same price as 9mm). .357 magnum revolvers will shoot both .38 special and .357 magnum. I'd love a S&W 686 or GP100. Very nice guns
  4. Crazy_Nate

    My first gun shall be?

    The first question is...what do you want to do with the firearm? Are you looking at autoloaders only? What is the maximum that you're willing to spend? If you just want an economical (to shoot) handgun, I don't think you can go wrong with a .22 LR. Ruger makes very good .22's (Mark 1-3, single six/ten, 10/22, 77/22). I'll probably pick up a Mark 3 comp...but, only after I can find .22 LR locally... No point in buying a firearm when I can't shoot it. Rent 'em if you can. See if you like the trigger and can shoot them decently. Some people are really picky about triggers, especially with all of the variations, DA/SA, DAO, SAO, etc. They are very very different.
  5. Crazy_Nate

    [PC] Defense Grid

    Anybody try this game? It's a tower defense game that takes a little brainpower. Aliens, guns, forcefields, and power cores. I bought it a couple of months ago on steam, for $20, now, it's half that. I've seriously racked up the hours on it since then. http://store.steampowered.com/app/18500/ The demo is free, if anyone is curious. Not really hardware intensive - just really needs DX9 and above.
  6. Crazy_Nate

    2013 Firearms Discussion

    Oh, before I forget. With a revolver - pay attention to where your fingers are relative to the "danger" end of the cylinder. Basically the area between the cylinder and the barrel allows hot gasses and other bits of stuff to come out, potentially putting you in harms way if you're not paying attention. It's generally not a problem with the larger revolvers, but smaller frames may allow your fingers near the "forcing cone". Probably more of an issue with your weak hand when shooting with both hands (strong and weak).
  7. Crazy_Nate

    2013 Firearms Discussion

    Revolvers won't have safeties typically. Keep the gun pointing downrange, finger off the trigger until you are aimed at your intended target. Always consider what is behind the target, but at the range this may be overlooked (since there will be a backstop). When you're carrying it around or handing it to another person, you can do so with the action open (with a revolver, the cylinder is out). That way you can tell that it is unloaded and safe. As Andrew mentioned above, doubling up on the hearing protection is very useful. My girlfriend does this at the range. I'm not quite as sensitive. If your dad is ok with this (and it's ok for the gun), you can "dry fire" it at the range. This is done without the ammo, or with "snap caps". Some gun manufacturers like snap caps, others are fine to be fired without them. You can use this to work on your point of aim on the paper target, and get some practice with the trigger. If it's a double-action revolver, you can likely shoot it single-action as well, unless it does not have an exposed hammer. My recommendation would be to try both, but be aware that the trigger pull is much lighter for single action than double action, since it does not have to rotate the cylinder or cock the hammer. But, as mentioned above, just have some fun. .38 special is pretty mild, even with light snubbies (the first handgun that I fired was a snubnose Taurus). If you're not having fun or are too nervous, you can always come back later. Indoor ranges can scare people away if they're really busy with a lot of shooters (since it will be quite loud). Cheers
  8. I was greeted with this error code today after I came back to the computer and the screen was off. I force rebooted it, but there were artifacts on the boot screens. The code is directly from the device manager. It says it won't start because of an error. NVIDIA settings won't start because it says "You are not using a display attached to an NVIDIA GPU." Right... Thoughts? Should I just navigate over to Newegg?
  9. Crazy_Nate

    8800 GTS... finally dead?

    I think I'm going to look for something with a low TDP and about the same "oomph". I do game a bit on the HTPC, but nothing too high-end (1080p only). Are the 650 Ti's any good? $140 + Assassins Creed 3 looks like a pretty good deal.
  10. Crazy_Nate

    Diablo 3

    When you get frustrated with one character in inferno...you'll spend time on another character. That's why I have a 2nd character in inferno For skills, it seems like to survive you need: 1 skill to negate incoming damage or drastically reduce it. 1 skill to heal. 1 skill to flee. 1 skill to buff. 1 skill to stun / freeze / other crowd control. That's gotten me into Act II of inferno...beyond that, it's just painful.
  11. Crazy_Nate

    Diablo 3

    Yeah, Life on Hit does seem really useful. I wonder what Act 5 is going to be like with the Terror Demons...they basically negate any useful form of healing. Talk about terror.... What're some of these other acronyms for those of us "old folks"? DoT = damage over time? CC? CD?
  12. Crazy_Nate

    Diablo 3

    I get most of my gear from the gold auction house. No shame in doing so... most drops are junk. I have found a couple nice weapons, but that's about it. I have two characters in Inferno. A level 60 barbarian and a level 60 monk. Both are mega all-resist, 800 resist / 8k def on the barbarian and 600 resist / 5k def on the monk. 10:1 seems to work pretty well. I need to find a balance between the primary stats and the necessary secondary ones. Str + vit for the barbarian and dex + vit for the monk. Perhaps a 2:1 ratio might work. Any tips for high level healing? Most things don't do much for a 30k HP character. Is it all HP regen or life per hit or what? Ok, here's a quirk. I've found 4 legendary items: a giant skull (ok), two junk butcher's sickles (why two of them?) and a grandfather (also junk). Are they just for creating firery brimstone at this point? At what ilvl does the item need to be to make the brimstone?
  13. Crazy_Nate

    Diablo 3

    I'm up to about 360-400 on resistances before impunity - it helps a lot. Too bad I went from 120% magic find to about 50%. But, at least I'm surviving. 95 - 100% of my gear is from the AH. Kinda sad, but that's the only way it works.
  14. Crazy_Nate

    Diablo 3

    I really hate the person that thought of invulnerable minions... I just got smashed by this combination: invulnerable minions, jailer, frozen, arcane enchanted. Ugh.
  15. Crazy_Nate

    Diablo 3

    Thanks for the heads up...I had to figure out what was wrong with the skills and then realized I haven't been using elective mode. Time for more defensive skills
  16. Crazy_Nate

    Diablo 3

    Anybody got any Inferno tips for a Barb? I'm getting smashed...8-9k DPS and about 7200 def. Can't handle the random elite mobs in act I. Three or four hits (tops) and I'm dead. I have 60+% damage reduction! How the hell?
  17. Crazy_Nate

    Diablo 3

    I mean, c'mon, can't you at least attempt to estimate server demand at release??? "Battlenet is down for maintenance"
  18. Crazy_Nate

    Diablo 3

    This is annoying. I was booted from a server (shutting down for some update), timed out on another, and now they're all "busy"... Sour taste is one way to put it...
  19. Crazy_Nate

    What gaming console(s) do you own/use?

    PC and a whole lot of older consoles. The newest is a DS lite.
  20. Crazy_Nate

    7950 delayed

    You're both way late... http://www.nvidia.com/page/geforce_7950.html
  21. Crazy_Nate

    For all the would be software pirates.

    Don't get me started...
  22. Crazy_Nate

    For all the would be software pirates.

    Debate all you want over whether this is a casual discussion or not. I believe it depends solely on the individual. Here's why: Do you see piracy as a moral debate or a legal one? If one is to debate whether or not piracy is moral or, rather, morally acceptably by someones standards, it is independent from its legality. The legal debate revolves around the individuals viewpoint of the proprietary-ness or copyrights of information / software; NOT the ethics about how it is obtained. I'll admit of empathizing with piracy on the grounds of obtaining information that is no longer available through legitimate sources, but I can't morally agree with the "demoing" of software (including games). I use very very expensive software at work, maybe this will add some perspective. When one company has to pay for its use in order to provide a product or service, it is an assumed operating cost. Now consider another company that, is more morally flexible and is using illegally obtained software to cut costs. So, not only is it theft, it is an unfair advantage when competing in a capitalistic market (which is even more disgusting in my opinion). Sure, you may argue that games are far less harmful...but, where do you draw the line? It's all software. Period.
  23. Crazy_Nate

    DTS Vs. DD Live for Logitech Z-5550

    I guess it may not be very clear what a DAC is, even though most of us have been throwing around the word. A DAC is a digital to analog converter. It is the electrical device or set of devices that convert a digital signal (such as one from a file on a computer or from a CD) to an analog one (such as the signal that provides the power to move the drivers in a speaker or set of headphones). The quality of the ADCs (analog to digital) for recording and the DAC for replay determines how well the sound reproduction matches its actual source. This is the penultimate goal of an audiophile. It matters not what sounds good (as that is extremely subjective), but the accuracy of the reproduction of the sound compared to its original source. So, yes, use the best conversion and you will have a better chance of accurate reproduction. Modern DACs in high-end sound cards are very impressive, such as 24-bit resolution up to sample rates of 96 kHZ. To add extra complexity with digital sources and accuracy is whether or not the transmission / storage is lossless or lossy. Obviously, at some level anything digital is lossy as there is no way to break up a continuous source into discrete (digital) points. This is the presumed argument of records versus CDs. Whether or not a difference can be discerned depends on the listener (and possibly how crazy they are). What I hope you take from this, is probably what you've figured out already. There are some digital transmission methods that are lossless (they are newer) - those are the ones to use between digital components for the most accurate transport of the digital information. So, yeah, it may make a large difference when you have a digital transport (fancy cd player) routed through a preamplifier (and equalizer), then to a set of monoblock amplifiers which drive a high end set of speakers... In your case, just do as above, let your sound card do its best conversion (the best DAC options available to it), use high quality analog interconnects, and use your system to its fullest capacity.
  24. Crazy_Nate

    DTS Vs. DD Live for Logitech Z-5550

    I'm with xPETEZx... Why use a subperforming DAC to do the work? If all you're doing with the sound card is a digital passthrough, why even bother with something more than the typical onboard digital capabilities of most modern motherboards? Use the best DAC you have available to you. I'm guessing it's not the built in one in your speaker set, especially if you have a high-end sound card.
  25. Crazy_Nate

    For all the would be software pirates.

    I empathize with losing a disk or getting around stupid or troublesome DRM, but the fact of the matter is... what'd you expect?
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