Water Cooling Guide....v 1.3

[sakleng]

Thanks for the tip man, but your link doesn't work?

Sharka link fixed, sorry about that.

[red930]

Sharka link fixed, sorry about that.

 

No problem, thanks for the link. Looks like a good site...

[sakleng]

No problem, thanks for the link. Looks like a good site...

 

You bet, also here is a link to the Aqua Computer site (http://www.aqua-computer.de/e_index.htm). A.C. makes some really beautiful stuff. The machining, finish etc. is some of the best I have seen. Performance is excellent as well. Here is a link to a review on A.C.'s XT system (http://www.systemcooling.com/aqua_computer_xt-01.html) as put together by Sharka. This kit aims to balance good performance with very low noise levels. Includes their Cuplex cpu block, which utilizes an internal accelerator plate to create a highly turbulent flow pattern inside the block. Some good pics of this in the review.

[FXed]

Components:

CASE: CoolerMaster/WaveMaster TAC-TO1 first generation with WaveMaster custom clear blue side panel.

Cost for case in the year 2000: $179.99

Side panel from FrozenCPU cost: @ $50

Total for case and side panel: @ $229.99 + tax and shipping

 

Water Cooler: Swiftech H20-80 Micro Kit from FrozenCPU $169.95

Fluid XP+ Extreme Non-Conductive UV Alien Green (FXPEXTAG32), from FrozenCPU $34.99

AMD 64/K8 Socket 754/940 Backing Plate from CrazyPC $4.99

Antec 3-speed blue LED SmartFan @ $11.99 at CompUSA

 

Temperatures (Ambient room temperature = 21.11C/70F with @ 58% relative indoor humidity and YES humidity does play a key role in computer temps!!! I know this for a fact, from personal experience and observations over the years! ):

 

CPU

Idle Temperature - 28-35C, dependant on ambient room temps and humidity

Load Temperature - 40-43C; 48C MAX with ambient room temps 76F and above, while overclocked @ 2.8GHz and with two instances FAH + running 3-D apps/games at the same time

 

GPU

Idle Temperature - 50C

Load Temperature - 55C

 

Chipset

Idle Temperature - 48-51C

Load Temperature - 53-57C

 

NOTE: All temps are at a slight CPU and RAM OC, or @ 2.8GHz&1.4v for my FX-60 and just a slight tweak to my OCZ Platinum and HTT settings. More on that later, still benchmarking and tweaking, trying to reach that "sweet spot" but still the best cooling I'd ever seen with this rig!

 

Mods: Only mod needed was the metal back plate, modified with a Dremel MotoTool to widen areas of the square opening to better clear small chip capacitors/resistors on the back of my DFI LP UT CFX3200 DR/G Mainboard. While these metal backplates do have a square cut-out, that clears most chip caps/res, this particular MoBo has several chips surface-mounted to the outside of this square area and could be potentially crushed/cracked under the force of the backplate, despite the plate having a plastic insulating layer. It’s just an extra precaution I’d taken to make sure no damage was done to the back of my board, since I’ve done years of surface-mounting those tiny chips and have seen first-hand just how fragile they really are.

 

This was my first water cooling attempt and I wanted something that required no case modding. Since my WaveMaster case doesn’t have enough room for internal 120mm fans and only has one rear 80mm exhaust port, the Swiftech H20-80 Micro was the perfect choice for me. Installation of the APOGEE water block was simple, requiring no Mainboard removal and just two screws, lock washers and spacers for my Socket 939 system. Since I already had the metal back plate installed, because I had a Swiftech MCX6400-V Extreme Performance air cooler already and previously modified the back plate for this board, it cut the overall modding and installation time by at least an hour. DFI and Swiftech both claim that installing the metal back plate without modding/cutting it should not harm the surface-mount chips, but after paying nearly $200 for this CFX3200 Mainboard I didn’t want to chance an un-moddified install and possibly breaking any components on the back of the board, but that’s just me. I always take precautions to the next level whenever installing such components.

 

I also spent time leak testing the Kit without power to the Mainboard, by jumping points 13 and 14 of the 24-pin connector with a modified 20-pin connector I’d cut off an old fried out PSU, thus making my own jump-start connector from spare parts. I filled the reservoir and turned on the PSU for about 1-2 seconds, then off, to pull fluid through the lines. It emptied out the reservoir and I did this 3 times to make sure the lines were all filled. I then let the unit run for several hours whilst checking for any leaks and to clear the lines of micro-bubbles.

 

I also didn’t run the radiator/fan in the suggested direction, or pulling cooler outside air into the case. I have 2 rad fan/s reversed to pull air from inside the case [push/pull] to the outside rear, so as not to heat up the internal case temps and components. With two front 80mm fans and on top 80mm fan bringing cooler outside air into my case, I get enough air flow to keep the internals cool and to keep my PC P&C PSU and dual ATI X1950 cards well ventilated. This configuration has not only dropped my CPU temps more than 20% colder than the best air cooling, it also dropped my Northbridge and GPU temps by an equally astounding 10% or more, both at idle and at load! I know from personal experience that if I had pulled air through the radiator into the case, as suggested in the Swiftech manual, all the internals would never have reached such a cool state. I can also say this is true by just placing my hand over the rear radiator exhaust and feeling just how much heat is being transferred away from my FX-60 CPU.

 

*Total Cost for water cooling Kit and accessories: @ $223 + S&H or @ $250.

 

* I already had a large syringe of Arctic Silver 5 and another large syringe of Arctic Silver Ceramique, plus the Swiftech H20-80 Micro Kit comes with a small syringe of AS Ceramique instead of some generic crap, a nice bonus from Swiftech, to be sure!

 

[FXed]

Still haven't permanently attached pump and reservoir, plus going to trim tubing and re-route cables for cleaner look. As it is now, this is what my rig looks like with WC installed.

Room lights on:

 

Room lights off, just internal case/fan LEDs and a 4" UV Cold Cathode tube:

 

More later. Most likely get the best WC parts I can find, one piece at a time, along with better UV lighting. For now though and considering this is my first WC build, it still really performs well, never so much as a dribble leak seen, and as you see in my previous post there's nothing wrong with the temps I'm getting now. This is awesome performance for my first WC build, very happy with the results!

:drool: :nod:

[Curtybob]

Components:

 

Danger Den TDX from the DangerDen Store: $52.95

Maze4 GPU with Acetal top (standard height) from Danger Den store: $44.95

Maze 4 GPU with acetal top (low profile) from Danger den Store: $44.95

Danger Den D5 (Laing D5) pump from Danger Den store: $79.95

1977 Pontiac Bonneville Heater core (no A/C) from Autozone: $19.99

50 feet of Tygon tubing from ebay $15.00

2 120mm Evercool Aluminum frame fans from nexfan.com: $25.98 ($12.99 each)

danger den "high density polyethylene" bay reservoir: $17.95

 

CASE:

 

Chieftec FS710 (antec SX1030/1040) from GameVE.com: $129.99 (from several years ago)

 

 

Temperatures (Ambient room temperature = 20C ):

 

CPU -

 

Idle Temperature - 25C

Load Temperature - 32C

GPU -

Idle Temperature - 34C

Load Temperature - 48C

 

Short Description:

My rig is full of mods. The radiator sits in a fiberglass shroud that covers up the heatercore ugliness, and lets me sit my fans at an angle to get the air moving inside my case, in the direction that helps my video cards and chipset cooler. I also swapped out the stock nozzle plate in the TDX waterblock for the #4 nozzle. That alone made a 3-4C difference (load only, idle was unaffected). I can tell you that if you buy bulk tubing, make sure it is not Tygon B-44-4X 1/2" ID tubing. That is not quite the right formulation for making tight bends. Also, I used the motherboards stock backplate for the CPU waterblock, but I did have to shave down the 2 parts that engage the holes in the motherboard. Otherwise the nuts would not get tight and hold the bracket/bolts in place firmly.

 

Total Cost : $301.72

 

**note that the price did not include the case, cost of building materials for fiberglass work, or the cost of aluminum diamond plate that I lined the case and radiator shroud with.

[politbureau]

From Second System in Sig..

 

Components:

 

Antec P180 Black - $100

 

VW G015A8FA4 Coolant - $12

 

Distilled Water - $2

 

Petra's Tech Shop Gel Pad - $5

 

mCubed X12 120mm Fan - $22 (!!)

 

TDX Block and Nozzle Kit (using #5)

 

MasterKleer 7/16" Tubing

 

Laing D4 (MCP-650) Pump

 

Black Ice Extreme 120mm

 

Swiftech Rad Box

 

Plastic Clamps

 

T-line fitting

 

DD Fillport

 

Total: $271 (Canadian) Including Shipping

 

I purchased all my watercooling components and case used.

 

 

Temperatures (Ambient room temperature = 23C ):

 

CPU - TDX Block + Nozzle #5 + AS5 (CPU: 334 x 9 @ 1.54v)

 

Idle Temperature - 28

Load Temperature - 39

 

GPU - Arctic Cooling Accelero X1 + AS Ceramique

 

Idle Temperature - 41

Load Temperature - 61

 

Chipset - Thermalright HR-05 SLI + Nexus 80mm + AS Ceramique

 

Idle Temperature - 36

Load Temperature - 41

 

Installation Description:

 

First off, the P180 is not an ideal watercooling case. It took an above-average amount of time to mod it to take a full watercooling kit, but the results are better than I expected. Internally, the system is self-contained, thermally isolated, and does not compromise the air-cooling ability of the other components. The system is also nearly silent, which was the goal of the entire exercise in my mind.

 

Case Modifications

 

- Lower HDD Cage and supports removed

 

- HDDs relocated to upper HDD cage

 

- Lower front fan 'box' removed

 

- Two 3/4" holes drilled in horizontal divider, washers installed (for tubes)

 

- Rad installed in front location using prototyping supports, bolts, nylock nuts and silicone washers

 

- mCubed Fan installed on backside of Rad ('pulling') with Fan box and silicone gasket

 

- Middle Fan in Lower Chamber installed on front facing side of support (not enough room on the backside with PowerStream)

 

- DVD Drive moved to bottom-most 5.25" bay

 

- Mesh Bay covers installed in three upper 5.25" bays

 

- 120mm Nexus fan suspended in upper 3 bays - using thick hair elastics

 

- All panels covered in bQuiet Ultimate Sound Proofing Material (deadening)

 

- All panels further covered with Acoustic CC wedge Foam (absorbing)

 

- All fans were installed with silicon 'noise killer' gaskets and rubber fan mount grommets

 

 

Parts Modification

 

- Pump lowered to 9V output

 

- All Nexus Case Fans (5) lowered to 7V output

 

 

Comments

 

This D4 pump, though quite loud and 'buzzy' at 12V, has performed in near silence at 9-10V - only a slight hum is heard when I put my ear directly up to the case. I highly reccomend anyone building a watercooling system to play with different fans/output and pump voltage (if possbile) when trying to find the optimal noise/performance settings for the system. I have the pump hooked up to a homemade rheobus that allows me to vary the voltage from 5-12V. I found that for whatever reason, there was little performance increase the pump at 12V compared to 9-10V. Lowering fan voltage did affect temperatures directly, but the relationship was not linear, and I discovered that beyond about 85CFM (the rating of the Delta fan I was testing) there was no decrease in temperatures. I settled on the 55CFM mCubed X12 because it gave me the best noise level and signature for the performance.

 

 

Total Cost : ~ $350 Canadian

Includes case, all fans, all watercooling gear, soundproofing material, shipping and hardware bits.

[RGP_Rommel]

Great guide guys!

 

One thing I haven't found on any water cooling guide, is the recommended PSU's for water cooling. I've been looking all over for what PSU I should run with all I have in my system. I plan on adding two more WD raptors for raid, plus 2 more gigs of ram.

 

Thanks for the info guys, I learned alot about water cooling with it! And I feel pretty confident I could do it!

 

Edit: One other question is when water cooling your GPU's. Is it best to cool the ram with the water block? Or just water block the GPU and heatsink the ram?

[red930]

Great guide guys!

 

One thing I haven't found on any water cooling guide, is the recommended PSU's for water cooling. I've been looking all over for what PSU I should run with all I have in my system. I plan on adding two more WD raptors for raid, plus 2 more gigs of ram.

 

Thanks for the info guys, I learned alot about water cooling with it! And I feel pretty confident I could do it!

 

Edit: One other question is when water cooling your GPU's. Is it best to cool the ram with the water block? Or just water block the GPU and heatsink the ram?

 

Honestly any recommended psu here at dfi-street should be more than powerful enough to handle the load of a single pump and some fans for the radiator. Check out the recommended guide in my sig if you haven't.

 

Considering what you're running I'm surprised that you aren't having power issues right now. I'd really look into getting a 700+ watt power supply. I'd recommend the PC P&C 750 personally, but there are other great ones from OCZ, Corsair, etc that would work just fine as well.

 

As for cooling the ram on your graphics card...thats sort of up in the air but I'd say it isn't necessary. Get some ramsinks and get some air floing over them and it'll be a lot better than the stock cooling solution, which is none in some cases. If you can aoffrd a full block by all means go for it, but the Maze4 (and others like it) are excellent blocks.

 

Edit: nvm, didn't notice the auxiliary PSU. You're probably fine and should be able to add watercooling right now I'd think.

[UncleDavid218]

As I'm sure you know, the water pump is the only thing that consumes power.

 

I apologize for not giving you an exact number, but the power most pumps draw is very, very little

 

(if you have a DFI recommended PSU, you'll be OK... which you do)

 

And most people cool the RAM with the waterblock.

 

Take a look at Danger Dens website and you'll see most of the blocks work that way... but its unnecessary.

[Curtybob]

Great guide guys!

 

One thing I haven't found on any water cooling guide, is the recommended PSU's for water cooling. I've been looking all over for what PSU I should run with all I have in my system. I plan on adding two more WD raptors for raid, plus 2 more gigs of ram.

 

Thanks for the info guys, I learned alot about water cooling with it! And I feel pretty confident I could do it!

 

Edit: One other question is when water cooling your GPU's. Is it best to cool the ram with the water block? Or just water block the GPU and heatsink the ram?

 

for PSU's, as long as your PSU is in the upper eschelons and on the recommended list here, then you should be fine. I think the most taxing DC pumps are the D4 and D5 from Laing (Danger Den D4 & D5, Swiftech MCP650 & 655) and they draw somewhere on the order of 30-35 watts at full load. So as long as you are not maxxing out your PSU, watercooling shouldn't have a giant effect.

 

As for cooling the videocard RAM, it's worth it if you feel that the video overclock is being held back by heat in the video RAM, and you can spare the $125 for each videocard to get the blocks.. I have a hard time justifying the price of the waterblocks to get the job done, but alot of folks say it is worth every penny. But, I am only cooling the GPU's themselves, so I still havent taken the plunge.

 

edit: Sorry guys, you hadn't posted when I started to reply. I'm just glad I didn't contradict what either of you said.

[RGP_Rommel]

Wow thanks for the real fast replies guys!!!

 

 

Well I am having a little problem with power. My ATX 3.3V in smartgaurdian is running at 3.28.

 

One other thing is which tower to get. I've been looking at the thermaltake Amor. Want one that will be able to fit everything, and look nice as well. Any recommendations?

 

Again thanks for the help guys!!!!

 

Edit: Ok yeah i will get the water blocks to cool my ram as well! Thanks for the info on that!