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Everything posted by FXed

  1. Oh, OK, that makes more sense. I do believe you can use it with an x1950, but from what I remember it just runs at the speed of the lower card. For example, the x1950s run @ 650MHzx2,000MHz DDR, and when you add a slower card like an x1900 that runs @ 625x1,450 it makes both run at the lower speed. I think RubberDucks' idea of getting an OEM x1900 would probably work more to r3d c0m3ts liking, especially since there's no way I'd sell my cards for as little as $259 each. I was thinking more like $350 each for mine or maybe @ $650 for the pair of x1950s I have.
  2. Um, I have 4 X x1950 series cards and I can use any one of them individually if I choose. You don't have to buy a second x1950 to get one CrossFire Edition card to run. As with any CrossFire Edition card, regardless of whether an x1900 or x1950, you only need two cards if you plan on running in full CrossFire mode. The x1950 series has higher clocks, and DDR4 memory as compared to just DDR3 for the x1900 cards and the stock fans on the x1950s are quieter and more efficient than those on the x1900 series. I'm selling my first two ATI Radeon x1950s, one an x1950xtx 512MB GDDR4 and the other an ATI Radeon x1950 CrossFire Edition. I paid nearly $500 each for them just last year, when they first came out and were nearly impossible to find; bought the x1950xtx from NewEgg and the x1950 CrossFire Edition form SpaceCenterSystems in Texas. I broke down and bought the matched Uber set a couple of months ago, so I don't need two sets. I'm keeping the Uber set, but I'm willing to part with one or both of the x1950 series. If you get the CrossFire Edition first, you can add any type/brand of ATI CF Ready card to get CrossFire to work later, since the CF Edition comes with the dongle and the others don't.
  3. I've dreamed of the processor, so feel free to give the CPU to me and I'd be in heaven. I'll get my own DFI Mainboard and the other stuff I'd need. When you win it, A_G, keep me in mind for the Core 2 Extreme. I'm not greedy. P.S., I still have my ATI Radeon x1950 CrossFire master and ATI Radeon x1950xtx cards, that I'd paid nearly $1,000 for just s few months ago. I have the original boxes, hardware and software fro them too. I only upgraded to the Uber Edition since they were Limited cards and factory OCed. I'd be more than willing to trade for the Core 2 Extreme and give up my earlier two x1950s in trade, but I'm keeping the Ubers even though I'd paid less for them.
  4. I hope someone here wins. I buy nearly all my PC hardware from NewEgg these days, and my main rig is probably more than 75% NewEgg equipted, including my DFI Mainboard.
  5. I haven't tried a Wii yet, but they do look like fun. Age is "relative" I think. I haven't gotten to the half century mark yet, so I'm not over-the-hill, just reaching the summit. I know that "look", since I get it too when I talk gaming to some of my non-gaming buds. Telling them I'd played CS:S half the night, back when I did, and they don't have a clue. I have an easier time talking to their kids about games, even some 5 year olds, then my friends give me that "other look" like how can I talk to their kids when they can't [hehehe]. Bad game seletion at the wally-World here too. That's why I miss getting them at EB. Maybe I'll call the EB Corporate and see why the store butt-ociate told me they stopped carrying PC games, when that's obviously not the case nationwide. If I'm lucky, maybe I can still order them there. Thanks all, for the feedback.
  6. Some EB Games must still sell PC games, but in my town in NE Florida they stopped carrying them and the ignorant store clerk told me it was nationwide [he obviously didn't know what he was talking about, since others here can still get them at EBG in other states]. I haven't bought a PC game since December of 2004 or '05, and that was Painkiller Black Limited Edition DVD, and at EB Games here. I'm looking to get "Prey-Collectors Edition DVD" but BestBuy and Wal-Mart want @ $60+ for it. I tried the demo and it rocks on dual ATI Uber Edition cards in CrossFire mode; the graphics are awesome at the highest settings. My non-gaming friends and family members laugh at me too, old_geekster, but I don't mind. I'll stop gaming when they pry my cold, dead fingers off my Laser gaming mouse! I have consoles too but haven't used them in years. Maybe I'll even break down and get a PS-3, if the price ever drops to half or more of the $600 I've seen them go for. Xbox 360 is OK and I like some of the games, but I'm a PC gaming junky and live to get the best 3-D performance out of any computer I set my mind to building. Over $3,000 invested in the rig I'm typing on now, and it's already becoming a dinosaur [kinda like me], but it's mine and it plays anything I through at it and at the highest possible settings.
  7. This "kid" has snow on his roof [gray hair] and less spring in his step these days. Most contests/sweepstakes are OK in Florida; mostly it's NJ, Delaware and NH that doesn't allow them. I don't understand why this one is void in Florida, doesn't make sense to me. I've been wanting a Core 2 Extreme quad core since they first came out, but @ $900+ U.S. for just the processor it's something I just can't afford. I'd love to win an entire system that has one in it! Oh well. :sad:
  8. Canada is by far more into reality and gamers. After all, it's the home of ATI! It's also where my kick-ars 351ci/5.8liter Windsor V-8 engine was built that's in my 1996 Eddie Bauer Bronco 4x4. Canadians make some good stuff, and the laws and things they do make more sense than what's been going on down here lately. :nod: Our EB Games stores stopped carrying PC games about a year or two ago, for some rediculous and unexplained reason. Before that, they had the best deals on new and used PC games, and often had "Midnight Madness" sales prior to Christmas where they'd stayed open until midnight and sold games for as much as 50-70% off. Makes no sense to stop carrying them, but it doesn't make sense to put a pot smoker in jail longer than someone that commits murder, another thing the U.S. has been known to do.
  9. Mostly being the oldest city in the U.S.A.. http://www.oldcity.com/
  10. We have a store called EB Games where I live, that stopped carrying PC games completely. I haven't seen but one or two new games in the past two years I'd even consider buying; the industry just seems to be crapping out all across the board. What's wrong with this picture? Builders that buy mega-buck hardware to get the most out of there gaming rigs spend far more than console buyers, and games are often at the center for their reason/s to build. PC or console, games are what drives the industry to advance, in many ways. We need more games!!!
  11. I live in Florida, so NOT eligible. That just plain sucks!
  12. You should be fine using Fluid XP+ in UV Alien Green. I still have half a bottle and it has far less of the white waxy deposits in it, and remains clearer than the so-called Red [actually pink] or the UV Blue. I'd still use the UV Alien Green Fluid XP+ if I was to use any of their products, and as long as you stick with that and stay away from the other colors you should be good to go. If you read the reviews on Big Bruin or PimpRig, you'll see that those people had better results with Fluid XP+, but since those reviews were written the people at PrimoChill have made some major advances in the PC-Ice formula, and even their UV Red is less conductive, more of a "true" red color and doesn't clog or cloud like Red Flame Fluid XP+ will. As long as you're using the UV Alien Green Fluid XP+, and not the other colors, you should be very happy with the results. Just avoid at all costs the Red or Blue, or you'll see staining, clouding, and clogging that will drive you insane. That stuff cost me a small fortune to replace all my new components, such as tubing and a clogged radiator, plus it was a royal pain to get it out of my water block and reservoir. The green stuff is OK, and I only wish I had bought that instead of the nasty waxy pink Fluid XP+ expecting it to be red. No worries, the UV Alien Green should last you for years, but like all UV coolants some clouding is inevitable. I think you'll be happy with it and it should last a very long time.
  13. I'm going to have to take a look at the specs for the MCP355 myself. I'm getting ready to build another rig, and I want to use my current water cooling system in that build and replace/upgrade what I have in my primary. My Delphi MCP350 is going strong, and I really have no issues with it. The PrimoChill PC-Ice I'd switched to after Fluid XP+ had ruined many parts of my system is still running strong. Unlike Fluid XP+, I'm not seeing tubing stains, major clouding or waxy fouling inside my WB,RAD or reservoir while using PC-Ice. PC-Ice is almost as clear now as when I filled my system with it a few weeks ago. Since my testing revealed this new and improved PC-Ice to actually be less conductive too than Fluid XP+, I'm going to be buying some PC-Ice UV Blue for my next build. PC-Ice RULES!!! Thanks to Brian of PrimoChill [makers of PC-Ice], for the samples and for making a much better product than [lack of] Integrity-PC does [makers of Fluid XP+]. My full review will be posted soon, after the Xmas holidays. I love this stuff!!! [PC-Ice, that is, and all PrimoChill products I'm using now]
  14. I've been finding that even the clearest of fluids that contain UV reactive dyes will eventually do some clouding. Fluid XP+ is the worst, but not so much their UV Alien Green. The other colors contain more of a white waxy substance that clouds even the best of tubing and the dyes permeate the tubing as well. If you do look at the Tygon specs, check out various tubing they make. The water cooling standard has been R-3603, sold by most vendors. A closer look at the specs will reveal that in some sizes their tubing doesn't reach the pump PSI maximums and when it gets warm that blow-out point gets even lower. For example, my Delphi pump puts out 22 PSI, while Tygon R-3603 Laboratory Tubing in 3/8x1/2x1/16" tubing is only rated at around 20 PSI. This is a factor that many water cooling supply vendors don’t supply in the product descriptions for Tygon, but it’s a very important aspect imo to consider. The other is maximum temperature before failure, and the same Tygon tubing is well rated at 165F/74C, which is well beyond the max CPU temps most people will see at load. Tygon 2075 at the same tubing size, although chemically resistant, only has a maximum pressure of 13 PSI and a max recommended temperature of a measly 125F/52C, which in itself is almost less than half my pump pressure and at only 52C many CPUs can reach this while loaded easily in a hot room. I’m going to be getting samples of the Tygothane C-210-A Precision Polyurethane to ry as well, in the 5/8” OD size that’s not even in the product spec sheet. Tygothane appears to be slightly milky in appearance and not completely clear, at least in the product catalogue, so it will be interesting to see if it’s any clearer when I do get it. The max pressure is a much higher 33 PSI and a working temp of 200F/93C and 175F/79C prolonged, so the specs themselves show it to be a better contender for water cooling pumps and systems. Even with a high durometer of 82, Tygothane in the size above. it retains a minimum bend radius of 1-3/4”, a fairly big loop of nearly 4” diameter. The other thing to look at is the water absorption rating [lower numbers are better]. If the tubing absorbs water, then it’s obviously going to absorb dyes and additives contained within the coolants. Here are a few ratings for water absorption and Tygon tubing: Tygothane C-210-A = 1.12 Tygon 2075 Ultra Chemical Resistant = <0.01 Tygon R-3603 = 0.24 As you can see, the Ultra Chemical Resistant tubing absorbs far less water and as such should be a better candidate for cloudless/stainless tubing, but the other factors such as PSI and max temps are lower than the others. I’ll soon be running tests on all three, then putting the results up against some stock tubing from water cooling supply vendors and some PrimoFlex tubing I’m using now. I’ve spent a great deal of time researching the clouding phenomenon and I’ve contacted many manufacturers for product samples on which to perform various tests. I’ll be sure to log all my tests and relative findings as soon as I get the tubing samples, then I’ll be back to post the results herein. Oh and BTW, where you'd mentioned "I have heard the primochill ice is actually preaty conductive despite thier claims, but maybe they revised it.", I've seen the same reviews most likely [big Bruin and PimpRig, to name two?]. Those reviews were performed some time ago and PrimoChill PC Ice has had changes made to the formula since then. That's why I tend to take those reviews and then run my own tests, at a time when I plan on trying/using the actual product. After a very bad experience with Fluid XP+, despite a couple of good reviews that talk only about the conductivity, I no longer trust in what those reviewers said about PC Ice and my own tests on the most recent version showed me un- questionably that PC Ice is by far a better product than Fluid XP+. I have yet to run tests on MCT-5 or 40, so I cannot comment on how well it works or does not work, but once again those that did review it show it as a pretty good product.
  15. I got some PrimoFlex 3/8x5/8x1/8" tubing for my rig, along with some PrimoChill reusable plastic tubing clamps, and after Fluid XP+ "so-called" Red Flame[Flaming Flamingo Pink Hemorrhoid, not "red" at all!!!] clouded and permanently stained my Tygon tubing, clogged my radiator with red waxy deposits, clogged my water block, fouled up the inside of my Delphi water pump, … I had to buy a new radiator, after multiple flushings with heated white distilled vinegar and heated distilled water never got out all the Fluid XP+ contaminants and re-stained my new replacement Tygon tubing! I bought some PrimoChill PC Ice in UV Green, ran some tests using a digital multi-meter and ran those against leftover Fluid XP+ Red Flame and Alien Green, then also tested some pure steam distilled water and regular tap water. Out of all those tests, the new formula for PC Ice came in closest to pure distilled water as far as being less conductive electrically; even better that Fluid XP+!!! PC Ice also runs clearer than Fluid XP+ dyed coolants and lacks the nasty waxy deposits found in Fluid XP+. There are others on forums having the same problems after using Fluid XP+ dyed coolants, so I’m not alone in this one. The Alien Green Fluid XP+ isn’t as bad as the others but the PrimoCHill PC Ice still tested better as a non- “less” conductive coolant vs. Fluid XP+ Alien Green. I’m never using Fluid XP+ again, especially after contacting the makers of the stuff and being told I’m SOL. Inside of my rig looks much better now, using PrimoChill PC Ice and PrimoFlex tubing. I have some Tygon on order; expecting delivery any day now but I'll most likely use it for my next build since the PrimoFlex is working out very nicely for me: BTW, Tygon does make some chemical resistant tubing that may be less prone to cloding and stains. I ordered some from one of their affiliates and I'm awaiting delivery. I'll let you know how that works out for me. In the meantime, you might want to check out the Tygon Website and look at the .pdf specs for their chemical resistant tubing for your rig. I think it might be here, if I remember correctly but I'll check later and let you know the product number.
  16. Sweet! Glad you got the PC P&C 750, since I still have had no problems running my 610 Silencer. You have more hardware in your current rig and it definitely was a better choice to go with the 750 watt PSU. I love my 610, with my current hardware. I only have one MOLEX connector that's not being used by something and it still never chokes under full load. Have you tried using the latest ATI Tool or the ATI Tray Tools, to overclock your x1950s? I tried the version .24 of ATI Tools and it's not compatible with the x1950s but the beta seems to recognize the cards just fine. I haven't had the couple of hours needed to really let the overclock utility run any higher than @ 698/1100 on my cards and the CCC always reverts back to the lower 2-D settings when I'm not running games; makes it hard to tell what the clocks are actually running at. The ATI Tools over-rides the clocks to full-time 3-D speeds when set that way, which is nice for running the ATI GPU [email protected] console and getting faster frame rates. I'm still doing tweaks on my overclocks, so I won't know until later if I can go any higher than you've already gone. If I do get higher, I'll let you know. I'm still new to ATI tweaks, so I have allot of tweaking to catch up on.
  17. Thanks for the compliment, expresso. I do take pride in not only how well my systems perform but also in how they look. I'm glad I could quell your fears about FLuid XP+ too, that the Alien Green is actually pretty good stuff. I've spoken with various coolant manufacturers recently and found out that for some reason any of the red dyes are hard to make a "true" red. PrimoChiils' PCice is probably as close to a real red as you'll find, not a Flaming Flamingo Pink like the Fluid XP+ Red Flame actually is. A PrimoChill representative wrote me a few days ago and told me they're working on several product improvements including making the red a truer, darker red in the coolant lines. I wanted the red, to simulate blood pumping through my system to the heart (CPU), but pink was just plain nasty! Using canned air to clean the fans and components is a good fisrt step. If your components are really dusty, I'd probably use some near pure Isopropyl alcohol and a soft bristle toothbrush to get the surfaces as clean as possible, Using paper towels or even regular towels can leave lint and fibers, so I generally use unbleached brown paper coffee filters to do the final wiping, especially after cleaning my CPU and heat sink (water block) bases. The plain brown paper filters lack chemicals such as bleach used in white paper, so no lint nor residues remain and I've used them for years. Just be sure to give the components enough time to air dry before reassembling them, to avoid shorts from any unseen liquid alcohol. I also make use of my wifes hair dryer/blow dryer on occasion to speed up the drying process, used on a low heat setting and making sure not to get the components too hot. I also make sure to check for leftover dust or hairs, since my wife has long hair and seems to shed worse that a long-haired dog. Really, I think just using canned air and a clean, unwetted soft bristle toothbrush should do an exceptional job of getting off the dust, unless your components are really loaded down with dirt. BTW, I did see where someone used an in-line filter, in a post that Uncle_David Linked to earlier here. The guy that wrote that guide used it for initial filtering and it read as if he'd removed it at a later time, but I still think that's overkill. The multiple flushings with distilled or deionized water should do the trich fine, and using distilled white vinegar soaks is a bonus, since the mild acidity of vinegar will help to remove any traces of oils and contaminents from the manufacturing process. I flushed my radiator out 5 times with distilled water that was warmed slightly in a Pyrex measuring cup that was cleaned and wiped out with a brown coffee filter and 92% Isopropyl, not too hot just warm to the touch to melt any residual waxes from the use of Red Flame [Pink] coolant. I then poured out all the water/vinegar into another clear Pyrex cup to check for contaminents but never found any, the Swiftech radiator was amazingly clean inside! P.S., Now I want to see some pics of your system when you get you components installed! It's all good, expresso, once you get over the first few steps and do that first leak test. It's really not so hard, just a little imposing when done for the first time. I feel very confident with water cooling now, after putting together my first system. Once you dive in you don't want to leave the pond! Hehehe.
  18. No worries, the UV Alien Geen version of Fluid XP+ Extreme is fantastic stuff, lacks the high levels of Carnuba wax that's found in the Red Flame from my personal experience. AS mad as I was at the Fluid XP+ company, I still gave the green a try and couldn't be happuier with it. it does give off a nice glow, even under 2 x small 4" Logisys black light tubes. Take a look at my rig, with the side panel removed and Fluid XP+ Extreme Alien Green as the coolant: I think you'll like the UV Alien Green, even though it looks like yellow piss water in ambient room lighting. Even without UV black lights, just using the non-UV blue LED fans will give this stuff a mild green glow. I only went with Fluid XP+ because of the tests and reviews I've read about its' low conductivity and my newbeeness with water cooling in general, just more peace of mind. I think you'll be well pleased with the performance and the nice green UV reactiveness of this coolant, just stay away from the so-called Red Flame. I've also spoken with representatives of PrimoChill, the makers of PCice. They make a product that is very close to Fluid XP+ although just a tad more conductive. None of the non-conductive fluids I've seen are 100% non-conductive, and IMO they should be called "low-conductive" for accuracy sake, but anything that gives me that little extra insurance in a system that cost me more than $2,000 to build is a plus in my book. Just be certain all your internal components are completely free of dust, such as the surface of your Mainboard and graphics cards, since when dust gets wet it will become a better condutor of electricity even with the non-conductive fluids.
  19. That's cool. Never meant to incinuate that you didn't know what you were talking about, so no offense meant. It just seemed odd to me that anyone would use a filter in a water cooled system. They use filters in gas lines, because fuel needs to be filtered in an internal combustion engine, but filtering coolant just didn't make much sense to me in a closed system. Really the only thing that could possibly get clooged would be a water block that uses tiny jets, instead of pins or posts to transfer the heat from the block base to the coolant itself. I had to flush my system right after building it, because the Fluid XP+ Extreme Red Flame had too much of a proprietary waxy substance in it that attached itself to the diamond shaped posts inside my APOGEE water block. the coolant also looked a bright Flamingo Pink, instead of Red Flame as was advertised. It clouded the clear tubing with a white waxy residue, and stained the tubing a permanent pink color. I contacted the makers of Fliud XP+ and complained, only to be told "Sorry if it's not red enough for you, but that is Red Flame". They made no attempt to replace or correct this, so I'm really upset with the company that makes it right now. I had to flush out my entire system with warmed up distilled water, to clear all the wax out of the radiator. I also had to take apart my water block and using 92% Isopropyl alcohol and an old toothbrush I had to clean all the waxy deposits out of the channels, flushed it well with more warm distilled water and put it back together. I was able to use wooden laboratory swabs to get the wax film out of the reservoir and coolant lines, but the pink stains remained, so I had to replace all of the tubing with fresh tubing and start all over again, using a UV green coolant now that is almost completely clear [no waxy residue].
  20. A "filter"? Are you sure you don't mean a "filler", such as in a reservoir or a filler line for a closed loop system? Besides, adding any "filters" would to me filter out the good stuff too, such as anti-microbial, anti-corrosives and lubricants that could/should be in the coolant. I'm new to WC myself but after months and even years of reading prior to my first set-up, I've never seen a filter. Where was it you'd seen any mention of a filter? Not that I'd use one but I'd like to see that. I have seen flow metering, those little pin-wheel looking things you can use inline to see the coolant flowing but to me that's un-necessary and another potential for leaks. I was very apprehensive too, prior to my first build, but now I'm hooked on water cooling. My only concern now would be if I got a pin-hole leak in my radiator, since after years of automotive repairs I've seen them in both radiators and in heater cores. As long as you use good coolant with the proper additives, good quality components and make sure all your clamps are properly tightened I really don't see any other issues.
  21. If running on a single GPU, it should be relatively easy to set everything up for FAH. You may notice that running games or benchmarks with FAH GPU client running will return errors or shut down the FAH clent completely. This is normal, from what I've seen, as the project uses the full resources of the GPU in order to run. Also, while running just one instance, it's probably not necessary to assign a specific MachineID to the client, but if you have a CPU console running as well, you'll need to assign specific MachineIDs to each, e.g. MachineID=1 and MachineID=2, as found in the "client" folder of each FAH instance. I have two GPUs and need to shut down CrossFire while running the GPU FAH console. If not, there will be conflicts and errors that result. There's also a new client that allows you to run one instance on each of two GPUs, but I've found that in order to set it up I need to be running two monitors, at least at first during initial start-up, then also need to assign a unique MachineID to each client. BTW, how are you seeing temps as low as 44C, even on water? Do you have a GPU water block attached, along with a CPU water block? Not sure about default x1900 temps on air, but my x1950 temps run around 53C idle and upwards of 68-70C with FAH GPU client running full bore, on air and with my CPU only being water cooled. Just curious, since those temps seem low to me, never having ran an x1900 before I really don't know what they run at normally. Hmmm, I guess you could say that, but it's actually a project aimed at finding the cures for disease/s. While FAH can be a great detective for bad RAM, insufficient PSUs and other hardware problems, it's primarily the science of finding out how and why protiens misfold, the common reason that diseases occur. :cool:
  22. Now that I've switched to water cooling, I'm trying the GPU console again. With just one waterblock cooling the CPU, I'm seeing GPU temps never exceeding 70 C now, averaging @ 68-69 C, whereeas with air cooling I was hitting 80 C and beyond. CPU temps average 45-47 C with the FAH CPU console running on one core and the GPU console running on the other. Is anyone else still running the GPU console on their machine/s? I was wondering if like the CPU clients if I needed to add a unique machine ID to the GPU console, such as I have to do when running two instances of FAH on a dual core CPU. I.e., two seperate FAH folders, one named FAH-0 and one named FAH-1, then under "client" I set MachineID=1 and MachineID=2 using Notepad. I don't recall reading if a unique ID is required or if since this is a GPU client if I just use the MachineID=1. I know with the standard console, with two instances running, I need to address a specific ID or FAH doesn't know which CPU client to send or recieve its' information. Does anyone know if I need the set GPU to something like MachineID=3, or is leaving it at MachineID=1 OK? On another note, I did find that by having two x1950s I had to disable CrossFire or the GPU client would not work properly. For some reason it doesn't like trying to run under CrossFire mode but seems fine with this disabled. Just thought I'd point that out for anyone that tries running this client on a dual GPU system.
  23. Look at my Sig. I'm running the PC P&C 610 without any problems, and with dual x1950s in CrossFire mode. Just keep in mind the overall dimensions, since the Silencer is an extremely long PSU, may not fit in all cases. I haven't had any voltage issues, even with my rig getting a new water cooling kit recently, lot of blue LEDs and UV cold cathodes. Honestly, if my vendor had them in stock at the time, I would have purchased the 750. Honestly though, the 610 is still a powerhouse and I've yet to choke it with all I have installed in my main rig. Maybe if I added a few more SATA drives. More is generally better, just in case you do add more hardware later.
  24. My bad, still new to the ATI scene and this MBs BIOS. I think the BIOS voltages are @ 1.21 for NB & SB? I'll take another look at BIOS later to see where I came up with AGP voltages, thinking I saw it under the PCI setting but very well could be wrong. I do know there's a BIOS setting to up GPU voltages for card1/card2 by @ 10%, but when I try it causes game corruption/flickering.
  25. I'm using a single WDD 72GB 10,000 rpm Raptor in my main gaming rig. I also have an old 20GB Hitachi 5,400 rpm and a WDD 60GB 7,200 rpm HDD in two other rigs. Not sure about any benefit in CD ripping, but I can say with a certainty that playing games that need to load from disk (HDD) during game play load far faster on my single Raptor than on the slower drives I own. Pair up with good LL RAM and my dual core processor, when I see "Loading" in any games it's gone in a flash on my Raptor, reduces lag time greatly.
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