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About FXed

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  1. Oh, OK, that makes more sense. I do believe you can use it with an x1950, but from what I remember it just runs at the speed of the lower card. For example, the x1950s run @ 650MHzx2,000MHz DDR, and when you add a slower card like an x1900 that runs @ 625x1,450 it makes both run at the lower speed. I think RubberDucks' idea of getting an OEM x1900 would probably work more to r3d c0m3ts liking, especially since there's no way I'd sell my cards for as little as $259 each. I was thinking more like $350 each for mine or maybe @ $650 for the pair of x1950s I have.
  2. Um, I have 4 X x1950 series cards and I can use any one of them individually if I choose. You don't have to buy a second x1950 to get one CrossFire Edition card to run. As with any CrossFire Edition card, regardless of whether an x1900 or x1950, you only need two cards if you plan on running in full CrossFire mode. The x1950 series has higher clocks, and DDR4 memory as compared to just DDR3 for the x1900 cards and the stock fans on the x1950s are quieter and more efficient than those on the x1900 series. I'm selling my first two ATI Radeon x1950s, one an x1950xtx 512MB GDDR4 and the other an ATI Radeon x1950 CrossFire Edition. I paid nearly $500 each for them just last year, when they first came out and were nearly impossible to find; bought the x1950xtx from NewEgg and the x1950 CrossFire Edition form SpaceCenterSystems in Texas. I broke down and bought the matched Uber set a couple of months ago, so I don't need two sets. I'm keeping the Uber set, but I'm willing to part with one or both of the x1950 series. If you get the CrossFire Edition first, you can add any type/brand of ATI CF Ready card to get CrossFire to work later, since the CF Edition comes with the dongle and the others don't.
  3. I've dreamed of the processor, so feel free to give the CPU to me and I'd be in heaven. I'll get my own DFI Mainboard and the other stuff I'd need. When you win it, A_G, keep me in mind for the Core 2 Extreme. I'm not greedy. P.S., I still have my ATI Radeon x1950 CrossFire master and ATI Radeon x1950xtx cards, that I'd paid nearly $1,000 for just s few months ago. I have the original boxes, hardware and software fro them too. I only upgraded to the Uber Edition since they were Limited cards and factory OCed. I'd be more than willing to trade for the Core 2 Extreme and give up my earlier two x1950s in trade, but I'm keeping the Ubers even though I'd paid less for them.
  4. I hope someone here wins. I buy nearly all my PC hardware from NewEgg these days, and my main rig is probably more than 75% NewEgg equipted, including my DFI Mainboard.
  5. I haven't tried a Wii yet, but they do look like fun. Age is "relative" I think. I haven't gotten to the half century mark yet, so I'm not over-the-hill, just reaching the summit. I know that "look", since I get it too when I talk gaming to some of my non-gaming buds. Telling them I'd played CS:S half the night, back when I did, and they don't have a clue. I have an easier time talking to their kids about games, even some 5 year olds, then my friends give me that "other look" like how can I talk to their kids when they can't [hehehe]. Bad game seletion at the wally-World here too. That's why I miss getting them at EB. Maybe I'll call the EB Corporate and see why the store butt-ociate told me they stopped carrying PC games, when that's obviously not the case nationwide. If I'm lucky, maybe I can still order them there. Thanks all, for the feedback.
  6. Some EB Games must still sell PC games, but in my town in NE Florida they stopped carrying them and the ignorant store clerk told me it was nationwide [he obviously didn't know what he was talking about, since others here can still get them at EBG in other states]. I haven't bought a PC game since December of 2004 or '05, and that was Painkiller Black Limited Edition DVD, and at EB Games here. I'm looking to get "Prey-Collectors Edition DVD" but BestBuy and Wal-Mart want @ $60+ for it. I tried the demo and it rocks on dual ATI Uber Edition cards in CrossFire mode; the graphics are awesome at the highest settings. My non-gaming friends and family members laugh at me too, old_geekster, but I don't mind. I'll stop gaming when they pry my cold, dead fingers off my Laser gaming mouse! I have consoles too but haven't used them in years. Maybe I'll even break down and get a PS-3, if the price ever drops to half or more of the $600 I've seen them go for. Xbox 360 is OK and I like some of the games, but I'm a PC gaming junky and live to get the best 3-D performance out of any computer I set my mind to building. Over $3,000 invested in the rig I'm typing on now, and it's already becoming a dinosaur [kinda like me], but it's mine and it plays anything I through at it and at the highest possible settings.
  7. This "kid" has snow on his roof [gray hair] and less spring in his step these days. Most contests/sweepstakes are OK in Florida; mostly it's NJ, Delaware and NH that doesn't allow them. I don't understand why this one is void in Florida, doesn't make sense to me. I've been wanting a Core 2 Extreme quad core since they first came out, but @ $900+ U.S. for just the processor it's something I just can't afford. I'd love to win an entire system that has one in it! Oh well. :sad:
  8. Canada is by far more into reality and gamers. After all, it's the home of ATI! It's also where my kick-ars 351ci/5.8liter Windsor V-8 engine was built that's in my 1996 Eddie Bauer Bronco 4x4. Canadians make some good stuff, and the laws and things they do make more sense than what's been going on down here lately. :nod: Our EB Games stores stopped carrying PC games about a year or two ago, for some rediculous and unexplained reason. Before that, they had the best deals on new and used PC games, and often had "Midnight Madness" sales prior to Christmas where they'd stayed open until midnight and sold games for as much as 50-70% off. Makes no sense to stop carrying them, but it doesn't make sense to put a pot smoker in jail longer than someone that commits murder, another thing the U.S. has been known to do.
  9. Mostly being the oldest city in the U.S.A.. http://www.oldcity.com/
  10. We have a store called EB Games where I live, that stopped carrying PC games completely. I haven't seen but one or two new games in the past two years I'd even consider buying; the industry just seems to be crapping out all across the board. What's wrong with this picture? Builders that buy mega-buck hardware to get the most out of there gaming rigs spend far more than console buyers, and games are often at the center for their reason/s to build. PC or console, games are what drives the industry to advance, in many ways. We need more games!!!
  11. I live in Florida, so NOT eligible. That just plain sucks!
  12. You should be fine using Fluid XP+ in UV Alien Green. I still have half a bottle and it has far less of the white waxy deposits in it, and remains clearer than the so-called Red [actually pink] or the UV Blue. I'd still use the UV Alien Green Fluid XP+ if I was to use any of their products, and as long as you stick with that and stay away from the other colors you should be good to go. If you read the reviews on Big Bruin or PimpRig, you'll see that those people had better results with Fluid XP+, but since those reviews were written the people at PrimoChill have made some major advances in the PC-Ice formula, and even their UV Red is less conductive, more of a "true" red color and doesn't clog or cloud like Red Flame Fluid XP+ will. As long as you're using the UV Alien Green Fluid XP+, and not the other colors, you should be very happy with the results. Just avoid at all costs the Red or Blue, or you'll see staining, clouding, and clogging that will drive you insane. That stuff cost me a small fortune to replace all my new components, such as tubing and a clogged radiator, plus it was a royal pain to get it out of my water block and reservoir. The green stuff is OK, and I only wish I had bought that instead of the nasty waxy pink Fluid XP+ expecting it to be red. No worries, the UV Alien Green should last you for years, but like all UV coolants some clouding is inevitable. I think you'll be happy with it and it should last a very long time.
  13. I'm going to have to take a look at the specs for the MCP355 myself. I'm getting ready to build another rig, and I want to use my current water cooling system in that build and replace/upgrade what I have in my primary. My Delphi MCP350 is going strong, and I really have no issues with it. The PrimoChill PC-Ice I'd switched to after Fluid XP+ had ruined many parts of my system is still running strong. Unlike Fluid XP+, I'm not seeing tubing stains, major clouding or waxy fouling inside my WB,RAD or reservoir while using PC-Ice. PC-Ice is almost as clear now as when I filled my system with it a few weeks ago. Since my testing revealed this new and improved PC-Ice to actually be less conductive too than Fluid XP+, I'm going to be buying some PC-Ice UV Blue for my next build. PC-Ice RULES!!! Thanks to Brian of PrimoChill [makers of PC-Ice], for the samples and for making a much better product than [lack of] Integrity-PC does [makers of Fluid XP+]. My full review will be posted soon, after the Xmas holidays. I love this stuff!!! [PC-Ice, that is, and all PrimoChill products I'm using now]
  14. I've been finding that even the clearest of fluids that contain UV reactive dyes will eventually do some clouding. Fluid XP+ is the worst, but not so much their UV Alien Green. The other colors contain more of a white waxy substance that clouds even the best of tubing and the dyes permeate the tubing as well. If you do look at the Tygon specs, check out various tubing they make. The water cooling standard has been R-3603, sold by most vendors. A closer look at the specs will reveal that in some sizes their tubing doesn't reach the pump PSI maximums and when it gets warm that blow-out point gets even lower. For example, my Delphi pump puts out 22 PSI, while Tygon R-3603 Laboratory Tubing in 3/8x1/2x1/16" tubing is only rated at around 20 PSI. This is a factor that many water cooling supply vendors don’t supply in the product descriptions for Tygon, but it’s a very important aspect imo to consider. The other is maximum temperature before failure, and the same Tygon tubing is well rated at 165F/74C, which is well beyond the max CPU temps most people will see at load. Tygon 2075 at the same tubing size, although chemically resistant, only has a maximum pressure of 13 PSI and a max recommended temperature of a measly 125F/52C, which in itself is almost less than half my pump pressure and at only 52C many CPUs can reach this while loaded easily in a hot room. I’m going to be getting samples of the Tygothane C-210-A Precision Polyurethane to ry as well, in the 5/8” OD size that’s not even in the product spec sheet. Tygothane appears to be slightly milky in appearance and not completely clear, at least in the product catalogue, so it will be interesting to see if it’s any clearer when I do get it. The max pressure is a much higher 33 PSI and a working temp of 200F/93C and 175F/79C prolonged, so the specs themselves show it to be a better contender for water cooling pumps and systems. Even with a high durometer of 82, Tygothane in the size above. it retains a minimum bend radius of 1-3/4”, a fairly big loop of nearly 4” diameter. The other thing to look at is the water absorption rating [lower numbers are better]. If the tubing absorbs water, then it’s obviously going to absorb dyes and additives contained within the coolants. Here are a few ratings for water absorption and Tygon tubing: Tygothane C-210-A = 1.12 Tygon 2075 Ultra Chemical Resistant = <0.01 Tygon R-3603 = 0.24 As you can see, the Ultra Chemical Resistant tubing absorbs far less water and as such should be a better candidate for cloudless/stainless tubing, but the other factors such as PSI and max temps are lower than the others. I’ll soon be running tests on all three, then putting the results up against some stock tubing from water cooling supply vendors and some PrimoFlex tubing I’m using now. I’ve spent a great deal of time researching the clouding phenomenon and I’ve contacted many manufacturers for product samples on which to perform various tests. I’ll be sure to log all my tests and relative findings as soon as I get the tubing samples, then I’ll be back to post the results herein. Oh and BTW, where you'd mentioned "I have heard the primochill ice is actually preaty conductive despite thier claims, but maybe they revised it.", I've seen the same reviews most likely [big Bruin and PimpRig, to name two?]. Those reviews were performed some time ago and PrimoChill PC Ice has had changes made to the formula since then. That's why I tend to take those reviews and then run my own tests, at a time when I plan on trying/using the actual product. After a very bad experience with Fluid XP+, despite a couple of good reviews that talk only about the conductivity, I no longer trust in what those reviewers said about PC Ice and my own tests on the most recent version showed me un- questionably that PC Ice is by far a better product than Fluid XP+. I have yet to run tests on MCT-5 or 40, so I cannot comment on how well it works or does not work, but once again those that did review it show it as a pretty good product.
  15. I got some PrimoFlex 3/8x5/8x1/8" tubing for my rig, along with some PrimoChill reusable plastic tubing clamps, and after Fluid XP+ "so-called" Red Flame[Flaming Flamingo Pink Hemorrhoid, not "red" at all!!!] clouded and permanently stained my Tygon tubing, clogged my radiator with red waxy deposits, clogged my water block, fouled up the inside of my Delphi water pump, … I had to buy a new radiator, after multiple flushings with heated white distilled vinegar and heated distilled water never got out all the Fluid XP+ contaminants and re-stained my new replacement Tygon tubing! I bought some PrimoChill PC Ice in UV Green, ran some tests using a digital multi-meter and ran those against leftover Fluid XP+ Red Flame and Alien Green, then also tested some pure steam distilled water and regular tap water. Out of all those tests, the new formula for PC Ice came in closest to pure distilled water as far as being less conductive electrically; even better that Fluid XP+!!! PC Ice also runs clearer than Fluid XP+ dyed coolants and lacks the nasty waxy deposits found in Fluid XP+. There are others on forums having the same problems after using Fluid XP+ dyed coolants, so I’m not alone in this one. The Alien Green Fluid XP+ isn’t as bad as the others but the PrimoCHill PC Ice still tested better as a non- “less” conductive coolant vs. Fluid XP+ Alien Green. I’m never using Fluid XP+ again, especially after contacting the makers of the stuff and being told I’m SOL. Inside of my rig looks much better now, using PrimoChill PC Ice and PrimoFlex tubing. I have some Tygon on order; expecting delivery any day now but I'll most likely use it for my next build since the PrimoFlex is working out very nicely for me: BTW, Tygon does make some chemical resistant tubing that may be less prone to cloding and stains. I ordered some from one of their affiliates and I'm awaiting delivery. I'll let you know how that works out for me. In the meantime, you might want to check out the Tygon Website and look at the .pdf specs for their chemical resistant tubing for your rig. I think it might be here, if I remember correctly but I'll check later and let you know the product number.
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