Kyuss

Nice ride there. I was gonna say wait til the mod bug bites, but it sounds as if it already has Just a little note when looking for parts and/or tuning with the 93 lt-1. I don't recall when they switched to MAF's on the intake, but 93 definitely uses a speed density system and not an MAF. So if your lookin to change anything on the intake side keep that in mind. It's actually not a bad thing at all because it's a bit easier to retune a speed density setup than an MAF

X3 Reunion is due out very soon, hopefully in a week or so. Hopefully they made some fixes to flight models and stuff from X2 to make combat a bit more fun. I still played X2 quite a bit though and am definitely looking forward to X3 anytime now. And just incase you haven't seen it, heres some screenshots for X3. Personally graphics don't make or break a game for me, but I still gotta say this looks dang nice

Yep, it all gets done in multiple coats. It's the same always too in that the first coat should be a real like coat. It's more for giving the following coats to stick to than coverage, so don't worry about coverage on the first coat with primer, color, or clear. Ideally, aditional sanding isn't required. However, dirt does happen even in a spray booth. It would be worth it to pick up some tack rags/cheese cloth. It's like a nettings thats tacky (duh ) to lightly wipe the stuff down with right before applying the color, and then again before doing the clear. Also try not to get any fingerprints on it, or atleast keep them to the areas that are hidden/not easily seen. Body shops use a pre-cleaner, which would be ideal to get, but I'm not sure if you can buy a small quanity or the price so you might look into that if you really want. Making the area you're painting in as dust free as possible will probably help the most though. A little ingenuity and some cheap plastic can help here. If you still do end up with some dirt nips in the paint, all isn't lost yet. If you end up with dirt in the color coat, just keep applying the color as if they weren't there unless it's a really big piece. Once the color coat is clear, you can use some 400 wet and lightly sand em out. When I say lightly, I mean light pressure on the sandpaper with your hand. You don't need to put more color on it unless you burn thru the color to the primer. If theres quite a few spots, just lightly 400 wet the entire piece and move on to clear coat if you didn't burn thru anywhere. If you get dirt in the clear, theres a few options which are tied to wether you want to buff it out in the end. I'm guessing you don't have an electric buffer ect, so with that in mind. Again it's the same, keep applying the clear.. first coat light, then gradually get thicker. For clear, generally go with 3 coats with the last, "top" coat being layed on pretty thick, but not too thick so it runs. If you any dirt at all that you need to sand out, again wetsand the entire thank with at the very least 400 wet lightly. 600 wet can also be used, but since you'll have 400 that'll work fine. Then it's back to reapplying some clear. Since theres already clear on it, and it's prepped, you can just do 2 coats. Again, the first very light, then the second one lay it on a bit thicker and you should be good to go once it's dried. Keep me posted on how this goes and if you got any other questions.

I work in autobody collision repair for a living and do resto's on the side so I'm just thorwing out my own crash course in autobody. Fiberglass would be the way to go as stated above for repairing the cracks. However, if there are any cracks on the gas tank the only proper way to fix it is to take it down to bare metal and weld the cracks, then grind them smooth and follow up with a thin coat of autobody glaze. This also means you should get the inside of the tank recoated as well so the areas where it was cracked don't corrode. If it's a plastic piece your repairing, then it's just a matter of sanding down to the plastic and using fiberglass. Some dry sanding will be required after this, just be sure to flat sand it and not dig in with the corner of the paper, or push down with your fingers if your not using a board -- use the palm of your hand. You only need to go up to 320 grit at most here. As far as painting, theres alot to do and prep work is 95% of the battle to get a good result. First off, it just isn't going to look like it could if your going to be using any type of spray can paint, for cars or otherwise. So they key would be having access to a proper spray gun. The only exception where spray can stuff is alright to use is for etch primer, which you would want to use on any bare metal. You only need a light coat -- don't expect/try to fully cover the metal with this. Next would be filler primer, aka the regular grey primer. I always avoid using any spray cans for this because I find all the primer to general be low grade. It just doesn't seem to hold up as well as regular automotive grade primer. However if you must, a spray can primer could be used here. Atleast just ask someone at the store (and not like a Napa, I mean a autobody supply store) if they could recommend something halfway decent. This you want to put on a bit thick as it name implies its a 'filler primer', although don't try doing this all in one coat. Put a light one on at first, give it a few minutes to tack up, then another ect. I usually do three coats with the first really light, the second is a moderate, and the third you can lay it on a bit. After the last coat is atleast tacky, or even fully dry, it's a good idea to put on a guide coat to help find low spots when you start sanding. Black spray paint is good for this, just mist it over the primer, thats all you need. Once all this is completely cured you can move on to sanding - again. Hopefully at this point everything should be relatively smooth, other than maybe some slight rippling from the primer. Use some 400 grit dry and sand the entire thing, again with your palm or a sanding block. This is just to knock off the rippling of the primer and pick out any low spots. You'll pick out low spots when you sand over an area and you don't remove some of the black paint. Hopefully if this happens it won't be too deep and you can continue flat sanding the area and work it out of the primer. Be sure when sanding here that you alternate directions. Once you've removed any low spots, go over this one more time again with 400, but do it wet. Once your done here your pretty much ready to start prepping it for paint. This is where you have options. You may still be just using spray cans, which in all honesty I've seen it turn out ok on things like computer cases so if you must, you must. If you do have access to a spray gun then you gotta go paint shopping and decide if your using single stage, tri-stage ect. Thats a whole volume on its own so I'll leave it at this for now. Happy sanding

I'm with BigRed on this one. I'd check the exhaust manifolds first as it would be the cheapest and it sounds like what it is. Could be something as simple as just the exhaust manifold gasket just crumbling and just needs to be replaced. My second thought would be with BigRed too about a lifter tick, but that's generally a pretty quiet tick. If a lifter was indeed that loud you would definitely notice it in the way the motor would react to throttle ect (ie. not good).

I usually go a little bit more in depth with it just because they got all screwy once. First I do as suggested and just goto add/remove programs and remove the driver. Then I reboot into safe mode and run a small prog called Driver Cleaner. Then reboot back into normal windows and cancel the stupid auto windows thing that tries to find one of their drivers to install for it, and then finally install the new drivers, do a final reboot, and enjoy.

Yes

Well sadly my 99 WS6 I posted a pic of awhile back has gone on to a new home about a week ago. Definitely gonna miss it, but it's all for a good cause... to buy something else. 02 Z06 Hangin up the drag boots for now atleast and going give some autocross/road courses a go. You can be sure this won't stay stock for too long. I also finally built a new computer, but thats not nearly as fun to look at. BTW bigred, that looks dang fun. Been a long time since Ive had a vehicle to play like that with.

Just put a blob on the center of the processor and try not to slide to HSF around when you place it on top and clamp it down. I used about a blob about 1/2-3/4 the size of a BB and I'm currently running around 27C Idle, 37 Load on the stock HSF with a 3200+ at 2.2Ghz. I'd suggest also wiping down the heatspreader on the CPU and the mounting surface of the HSF with some Isopropyl Alcohol right before applying the AS5.

The X800XL only comes in PCI-e, whereas thats a NF3 Gigabyte board so it's AGP. I have that Gigabyte and am loving it so far but I didn't have the money to upgrade to PCI-e so I needed to stay with my AGP for now. While I personally don't see a need for a big rush to move to PCI-e, if your buying a new video card right away you might want to look into a NF4 board and a PCI-e gfx card.

I just upgraded a few days ago too finally. I was going to hold out for the Venice but after waiting a few weeks and finally hearing the box chips(for the 3yr warranty) won't be shipping out til mid-May I just went with a Winnie. Old System: P4 1.5 Williamette POS Asus P4C Motherboard, Bios neutered by Hewlett-Packard 256mb of PC600 Rdram New System: 3200+ A64 Winchester Gigabyte K8NS Ultra-939 1gb ddr400 G.skill 2-3-3-6 So yah, I made quite a leap. It's only been about a day since I been up and running on the new machine so I'm still being wow'd doing just about anything. Went with a nf3 mobo cuz I didn't have the cash for a new vid card so I'm still using my agp card and will be upgrading to a agp 6800GT hopefully within a month or two.

Source: The Inquirer

GN's are definitely a badass ride. Just make sure theres no problems with the turbo if your looking at one. Turbo parts can be a bit expensive for em.

So you got a supercharger on it now or did I read that wrong? I've never ran a blower on either of my TAs but Ive know some guys that do and they seem to prefer the ATI prochargers. I tossed around the idea of twin turbos before but thats just too expensive for the time being. Besides I like tryin to see what I can get out of the motor. That interior paint doesn't look too bad either, and usually I dont care much for that kind of thing. Its a nice touch to the otherwise bland interior of a TA though.

Wow lots of TA fans here, thanks for the comments on the ride. It's a 99 6spd btw, noticed I never said that in the original post. Here's a older pic of the car I had previous to the WS6, go figure it was another Trans Am. This was taken about 6 years ago shortly before I sold the car. Mine was the red one purging, the black WS6 is a friends. They were both 97s, mine was an automagic, the WS6 is a 6 speed. This one was more of the same lol, 396 but LT1 of course. It was on the verge of breaking into the 10's when I ditched it. The motor was on par but the rest of the driveline needed to be matched to get the most out of it. It's hard to tell from the pic but the hood on the red one is actually as WS6 hood I filled and smoothed down to look like a big cowl hood. I'm a bodyman by trade so thats my explanation of pointless things like that lol. It looked cool in person though. I could digup pictures of the other older cars I had too but I dont wanna upset the 4cyl guys Had a 72 Nova, 68 Chevelle, 81 Camaro, 84 Cutlass with a Muncie 4spd lol. I'll stop now though since this is probably the longest post Ive made here and it has nothing to do with computers.