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Ballistic

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  1. Yes this mobo is a B!tch... Try powering off the power supply, disconnecting the HD power cable while leaving the SATA data cable connected and turn the power back on and start the PC. Watch for the post screen and just when you see it detect the HD power off the pc, reconnect the HD power and start it in the normal fashion... I had the same problem as well as many others...if you ask me the southbridge is deteriorating. I just scrapped out my mobo that is listed in my sig and salvaged all other parts for a home server. If I were you I would cut your losses now and just move on. I must have installed XP a dozen time in a month while troubleshooting thinking it was a driver related issue...it will never get better. B!
  2. Shrude... Make a sig so we all's can sees what you got cookin'... B!
  3. I think I may not have been clear enough...I'm asking if I anyone has had any experience running a SATA150 HD on a 300 bus? Maybe you have answered it and I have just read it wrong.
  4. Has anyone ever successfully ran a SATA 150 HD on a SATA 300 bus for an extend time period? I have connected and accessed (without failure) a 74 Raptor on a SATA 300 bus, but didn't want to leave it running without know what will happen. Before I removed it I was able to run Harddrive Tach and the benchmarks were no differant from 150 to 300...I see the backwards compatability from 300 to 150 by jumpering the drive, but can't find anything on running a 150 on a 300 bus. My only guess would be the 300 bus freqs maybe higher and possibly damaging to a 150, but I have many 150 HD and would still like to use them...anyone have any thoughts?
  5. Update: It would appear that the 602 bios seems to have no problems. It would also appear the it is smaller in size compared to the 711 bios. So I am going to take a shot at replacing the bios chip in thinking it could be damaged...$20 isn't so bad considering the cost of a new system.:tooth:
  6. Hi all, It would seem I am having the same problem...I reset my bios, asks me F1=continue or DEL=Setup, I chose DEL, enter bios, change nothing and save. My system just hangs in endless loops attempting to POST no beeps. So I reset again this time I chose F1 and let the system boot once after clearing the bios before attempting to make changes and this allows me to get to my desktop without issues. Now I try rebooting and start increasing the FSB from 200 to 225 with the HT at 4...endless loops attempting to POST no beeps. Everytime this happens I have to reset the bios and allow the system to load the OS before safely entering the bios. Bit of history here: I have had this mobo for about 2 years now and have had no problems, but I seem to be corrupting or loosing drive partitions. I was OC'd at 270x10 then dropped it to 250x10 thinking it was too fast even after all prime95, superpi, apps and games show no signs of errors. I have had a 160g Seagate that i lost the partition on, lost a partition on a 74g Raptor and recent my attempts were to RAID 2 80g Seagates. All 3 drives were installed individually (all have been SATA) and every time performed great for about 2 months and then performace started degrading. Little hick-ups here and there (assumed it was XP acting up)and not once was there ever a sign of lost data or corruption. I shutdown or restart after a session or a day and BAMB no HD. Used the XP CD to do a repair and there is shows an unpartioned drive...WTF! So an early assumption is leading me towards my southbridge. After nearly 25+ bios resets and several half butt attempts to get to my desktop (not kidding at all) my weekend consisted of extensive tests and harware replacement (not cpu) and this is wHat I have done: 1. I broke out the Win98 start disk and FDisk /mbr, repartioned and formated the piss out of it. 2. Re-installed XP SP2 (requires a format as well) I can barely get it to boot, but only at bios default after clearing. CPUZ shows 200x10 w/ HT@4 3. Install all OS updates and x2 drivers 4a. removed all not critical to funcion hardware and powered it on...no effect 4b. changed PSU and verified with voltmeter, memory and video card...not effect 4c. booted with HD attached...no effect 4d. booted with no sound card...no effect 4e. Booted with no PSU...lol just kidding NOTE: at this point I feel all peripherals are good 5. ran memtest...flawless 6. ran SuperPI, Prime95 (these were tested at 200x10 w/ HT@5) flawless 7. changed from orange slots to yellow slot...no effect 8. ran one stick at a time...no effect NOTE: at this point I would believe the CPU and memory is good. 9. checked all caps on mobo for swelling or oozing of fluid...nothing 10. reflashed bios 711 at least 3 times, shutdown, cleared bios, went through the same steps and still cant get a low OC...my eyes are becoming very red and my jaw is starting to hang lower and lower 11. Installed Systool (very similar to A64Tweaker) dropped memory divider to 166, CPU to 200x7 and set agp to 68 - ran "Find Max" - it cycled up to 290 FSB before crapping out....this is what i have seen with this mobo in the past. NOTE: What surprises me is the system will reach stable OC limits of 250-270 in windows, but cant even POST with a bios setting of 205! 12. Executed a disk check in Windows which required a restart in order to execute...no errors no nothing. NOTE: at this point I feel my HD are good This guy (Rad-Raze2k) is having the same problem, but only I can get mine to POST http://www.diy-street.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7244&page=2 and this guy http://www.diy-street.com/forum/showthread.php?t=77456 I'm sticking with my original assumption of the Southbridge, but I dont know how to test it...never really had to. Can ANYONE help me with this? It seems this is common with this board, but all post I have read end without resolution.
  7. yes they do and let me tell you it was the best mobo I could have ever purchased. See my sig for details.
  8. Hey Sapphire, It appears I have the same mobo, but I have not seen this error before. Have you verified the speakers are plugged into the correct connector (It should be the green one)? Silly question, but sometimes it happens. Verify the settings in your sound options under control panel (double click the speaker next to your clock)...make sure the slider bars are not muted or they are selected to your configuration. I cant think of much more... Please let us know what you discover!
  9. I know you just said the memory is in channel A, but verify again that the memory is in the correct channel, slots, colors, etc. I had the same problem early on and got the same beeping error...Turns out the memory was in the incorrect slots... If this doesn't work verify the sticks with memtest or an equivelant. Is the power connector plugged into your video card? Id the 4 pin 12v mobo power plugged into the mobo? Simple but could be overlooked. When all else fails clear the bios by the mobo manufacturer procedure...exactly by their procedure. Also, disconnect any and all devices that are not necessary for POST and booting...see where this might get you. Please let us know what your findings are and good luck!
  10. It does not have anything to do with the shpape of the cable; it has more to do with the pin alignment while inserting the floppy ribbon cable. If the drive does not have a plastic frame or some sort of guide around the pin header the cable could possibly be connected a pin off or even upside down. The configuration of ribbon cables is like this: The red wire (pin 1) on floppy cables is furthest away from the power entry. The red wire (pin 1) on IDE ribbon cables is closest to the power entry. This may or maynot be your problem, however I just reverse the floppy cable and my green light is alway on now. Process of elimination! It would be interesting to hear about your findings. :nod: Ballistic
  11. If a person needed to have two pumps, I believe having one pumping coolant from the tank into the blocks and the other right near the tank pumping coolant from the blocks back into the tank. Each one is working together keeping the load displaced. In other words one is pushing and the other is pulling. If they were in parallel they both would be pushing. I believe, correct me if I maybe wrong, but parallel configurations of pump and fans that are stacked only deliver more torque and not velocity. This would be very similar to fans...put a fan at one end of a 10 foot tube and see how much air comes out the other end. Not much due to the amount of air the fan is pushing (compressing). Now if another fan was placed at the exhaust end of the tuve in the pulling (vacuum) configuration they are now able to move air easier with less power. Another example: If the CFM of both fans added up to 50 and both were replaced with a single 50 CFM fan the results would be less becuase one fan would be compressing the air in the tube...and again adding a fan in the pulling (vacuum) position will greatly increase CFM. I know we are talking about water here, but this may assist in some concept deisigning.
  12. Make sure your floppy cable is installed correctly on the back of the drive. Sometimes certain drives don't have the plastic connector around the pins so the cable could be installed a pin or two off. Cable connector------>[ .....................................].. <--------Pins
  13. I had this same problem when running some Corsair pc3200c2 2x512 memory when play BF2 and such games. I was clocking my sig specs with the memory I just listed @ 2.82 Turns out the mem voltage was just too low for my current FSB setting, so I just kept bumping it up to 3.2 actual...ran it that way for a year or so without any failures or issues. However if you are near your CPU max you need to make the decision whether to raise you memory voltage to perform with you CPU or to drop the FSB to meet you memory. It depends on how lucky you are and how much money you have. :nod: I personally like to push all components to their max, because I feel it is a waste to discard or upgrade from perfectly great operating components. We pay for the life expectancey and performance in these products...especially since we are always wanting the best bang for our buck...why not push them until they die and then upgrade...so much more fun that way.
  14. Doubtful of the RAM causing the stutter. Where you playing multiplayer or single player? If multi, it could be server lag...BF2 did this when first released and patches soon fixed the issue. If single mode, then I would suspect it to be possibly be a page file issue or video driver needs to be reinstalled. I have experienced the same issues and this is what fixed it for me. Check your harddrive LED when the stuttering starts, if it's constantly on and actively doing things during game play then I would seriously suspect a Page file issue.
  15. I had the same problem with some of my older Corsair 2x512 CMX PC3200 memory. Not sure what is was rated for, but I was running mine at 3.0v (6:5 divider) with lots of air flow because it did get warm. I was Prime and SuperPI stable at 2.8, but as soon as I fire up BF2 for about 10-15 min it would crap out...dropped it down to from 2.8 to 2.75 and all is fine. My guess is the operating environment of multiple instructions being processes simultaniously cannot be duplicated by Prime or SuperPI...Close, but not quite. So if you can manage to sacrafice a few mhz then drop it down a few, if not pump up the voltage on the memory one notch. PS--I ran it this way for about a year without any failures or stability issues....then I upgraded because that is what we do! Like I say, it's ashame to discard a CPU that is in perfectly great working order; if it still works then you haven't taken it far enough! :nod:
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