Redrum

I couldn't really tell you a temp difference because as soon as I take the cooler from its packing I check the base with a straight edge before I do anything else. I would say truthfully that I have never found one that suited my taste right out of the box. They all needed lapped. And I have tried quite a few before finding the correct cooler for each different CPU and board configuration. The one on this machine right now on a naked 146 Opteron with a low speed panaflo in a 70F room idles at 27C and full load at 38C using sound98 MBM data files. And its the quietest computer I think I have ever assembled.

I didn't care for the rubber mounts either and thats one reason I changed to the fan of my choice and strapped it on with zip ties. But it does work well I must admit.

I used this Artic Freezer Pro 64 and replaced the stock fan with a low speed paniflo. Its on a naked Opty 146 running 290x10 at 1.45 volts. Runs 27 idle and 38 full load in a 70 degree ambiant room and its very quiet. Also very cheap to buy pricewise. http://svc.com/acfzp64.html

Thats what I'm trying to tell you. It wouldn't do it automatically and I loaded the 6.8 Cats and Netframework version 2 I think it was. Thats why I started looking at the clock speeds cause My 850 Pro ran circles around this card.

Thats an interesting article and I will try it. What got me was after I put it in and ran 3D mark 01 and expected to see some big numbers. Shouldn't it have changed by itself and clocked up and acted right by itself? It ran through and gave me a 29,856. Hell my 850 Pro got me 32,000. So now I'm wondering why I need to undo this service and clock it manually? It never worked right in the begining. Was this a screw up by ATI? It won't clock up by itself and I find that a big problem. I can't figure why they do these things. By the way I had ATI tool in here and when I tried to use it said it didn't support this card. That was the new version I downloaded last night.

Like I should remember to do that. Thats why they put a Bios in it to control that. Voltage is low 1.200 at 575 Core and 2.086 at 675 Mem according to the New Ati tray tools.

I tried running benches with it and it won't go much over 575 Core and 675 Mem. When it gets to 600 Core and 700 mem is locks up and I have to reboot. Happens in 3D Mark 01 03 05 and 06. Theres deffinatly something not right with this. I'll go over to Powerup and ask. I might as well take it out and get ready to send it back now. Bios Version 009.012.005.002 Bios Part Number 113-A52025-109 Bios Date 2006/03/31 Part # 102A52000641 Serial # 102A5202554-000004 Top Front # 109-A52031-50

I just got today from the Egg a Saphire X1900XT 512 meg card and a Samsung 205BW LCD moniter. The moniter is great but this video card sucks big time. In the bios it has the clocks set at 500 core and 598 Memory. I wonder what kind of card I got here? The box is correct as to what I ordered. If I try to clock it up to specs at even 600 Core and 700 Mem it locks up. Got it on 6.8 Cats. Heres the Card: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?...N82E16814102025 Any Ideas?

You may want to take a quick look at this one instead of an X850XT. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?...N82E16814102698 SAPPHIRE 100154L Radeon X1800XT 256MB 256-bit GDDR3 VIVO PCI Express x16

You are correct mar-one this cooler uses the clamp method. I first put a little square of foam in all 4 corners of the heatsink to help distribute the pressure and then used pop rivit washers .060 thick for spacers to make up for the thickness of the IHS. I then put it on using the regular base with the tabs and used the Lever to pull it down. It felt nice and snug without being too tight to hurt anything. It seems to be just right judging from the temps I have now compared to the other methods I tried. I'm happy with it and it seems to do the job.

I first tried the idea of removing the IHS and reinstalling it with good thermal paste under it but I as you found out it didn't drop my temps either. I used Automotive silicon to reattach it. You don't need the high heat kind because the regular is good to 600 degrees. I even tried doing this a second time. The second time I worked the ridge around the IHS on my trusty lapping table making sure I had plenty of clearance between IHS and the CPU. Then I clamped it after reattaching it till the silicone was dry to make sure everything made good contact.That failed to produce the results I was seeking too. So last time I took it apart I used a slightly modified Artic freezer pro 64 and and used the CPU Naked. Now the temps at 2800 Mhz stays at 26 idle and 38 load in a 70 degree ambiant temp room. Now this makes me happy. I didn't use the stock fan that came with the cooler. I used a low speed Panaflo that puts out 42 CFM. and is almost dead quiet. I'll have to turn it back up one of these days but for summers high heat 2800 @ 1.3 Volts does just fine.

I wouldn't think that low voltage would hurt anything except for stability. I ran my 146 Opty for weeks at 250x10 at 1.225 volts 12 hours prime stable.

Heres something you might want to give a look into. Put your video card driver disk in and click explore. Look for a WMD driver and load it. Thats what it took to make my Logitech Orbit MP work. The old Microsoft WMD driver doesn't work with these newer video cards. Give that a shot you got nothing to lose. Good Luck !

something you may try is looking on the web site that makes your video card for a patch. You no longer use the microsoft WMD driver for web cams with these new cards. I found that out when I put this X850 Pro in. It uses a special ATI WMD driver and the cam works fine now. I'm not saying thats what it is but trying to give you a starting point being as your not having any luck. Does the cam not work at all? Or just in certain programs? Mine would not work with Yahoo Messenger but would work on Netmeeting, ICUII and AIM. Good Luck,

The double edge razor blades are very dangerous to use. One slip and bye bye fingers. Try taking a ladys Bic shaver and with a small screwdriver just pop the top off. And you end up with a blade thats .004 thick and has only one sharp side to it. Much safer and easier to use.