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Nedlinin

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I would be surprised if your battery could not handle that one.

 

I own a 2004 Pontiac Sunfire and I still have the stock battery. I have 2 12" Audiopipe subs (1600W Max) in a ported box powered by a 4000WRMS SSL amp and when I go to work in the morning, I am usually forced to wait for my boss to get there so I usually end up waiting about 30min and I play my music loud and the amp is turned about 2/3 the way up.

 

It will help if you throw a cap into your system to keep some power stored up when the bass beats go real low :)

 

hope you enjoy your setup when you get it hooked up

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With the box, I think you've really got two options. I'd love to say to get a bandpass box since they're ideally the best for rock style music, but as waco said, they're also very hard to design (read: expensive if done right). So really, it's either ported or sealed. Both can sound great, but again ported needs to be done right. A ported box designed for the right sub with the port tuned to the speaker can sound awesome. My friend had a pair of Type-R 12's in a slot-ported box that we painstakingly designed exactly for the subs, and it sounded incredible. So if you're willing to pay a stereo shop to make you a proper ported box for your sub, I'd say go for it.

 

On the other hand, if you're just looking for a factory-made box off the shelf, I think sealed is a safer bet. All you have to do is make sure the internal volume is right for your speaker and you know it'll sound really good.

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Im suprised this hasnt been said yet, but I would never consider adding a sub to a stock system. Putting that money into a nice replacement head unit is going to make your stock speakers sound 10 times better, and would provide sub level control, MP3/WMA playback, Sirius/XM radio options, and perhaps HD Radio. I would highly recommend that as a first step. Alpine, Eclipse, and Kenwood all should be on your shopping list.

 

 

At least if you are looking for sound quality... if you just want your car to be loud then I cant help you. You're dead to me... :lol:

 

C

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I would be surprised if your battery could not handle that one.

 

I own a 2004 Pontiac Sunfire and I still have the stock battery. I have 2 12" Audiopipe subs (1600W Max) in a ported box powered by a 4000WRMS SSL amp and when I go to work in the morning, I am usually forced to wait for my boss to get there so I usually end up waiting about 30min and I play my music loud and the amp is turned about 2/3 the way up.

 

It will help if you throw a cap into your system to keep some power stored up when the bass beats go real low :)

 

hope you enjoy your setup when you get it hooked up

Running that kind of power with the car off is a very bad idea for long (> a few minutes) period of time. Also, there's no way your amp is putting out 4000 watts rms on the stock alternator without killing your battery, even with the car running, if you're running it at full tilt for long periods of time. Your subs would also disintegrate if you threw a true 2000 watts each at them.

 

Also, caps have nothing to do with bass beats going low...they only store power for extremely short bursts and are never needed in any install. If you are going over the power your alternator can provide they are pretty useless. If you are just over what your alternator can provide they can sometimes help with keeping the voltage levels at the amp slightly higher, but they are by no means a necessity.

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I meant that he use 2 Isobarik 4th order boxes and yes it can be considered 4th order...

isopassgh1.th.jpg

Isobaric loading can be done with any order enclosure, it's not specific to 4th order boxes. It's also very inefficient and will be 6 dB less loud with the same subs and power given ideal conditions. Also, that picture is a single 4th order bandpass box with isobaric loading. Using 2 of them would require him to buy 4 subs and a LOT of amplifier power as well as give up a massive amount of room in his car.

 

I've designed and built many many stereo systems in the past and though I've done successful bandpass setups (4th, 6th, and quasi-8th order) in the past I wouldn't recommend them for someone who can't build their own and be VERY exact in doing so. The slightest error will make them sound like crap. Since he can't build his own he'd be relying on a shop ($$$$) or buying a prefab (one-note wonder).

 

Ported would be his best bet, though his stock system is going to have a hell of a time keeping up with even a modest sub setup. Many people prefer this type of setup though, so I'm not going to argue with what he wants.

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Also, about the battery issue - I normally pick up my girlfriend from school once or twice a week which means sitting in the parking lot listening to music for...20 minutes(ish) - I wouldnt really consider this an "extended period of time" but Im a nub :P -- Id assume that the battery could handle this? Or should I just buy a new battery to be safe?

Just leave the car running and don't worry about it. A new battery will only prolong the inevitable.

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Isobaric loading can be done with any order enclosure, it's not specific to 4th order boxes.
I know that...
Also, that picture is a single 4th order bandpass box with isobaric loading.
I know, I drew it... ;)
I wouldn't recommend them for someone who can't build their own and be VERY exact in doing so. The slightest error will make them sound like crap.
To tell you the truth I just said it knowing that it wouldn't be ideal...

Obviously its hard to portray sarcasm over the internet but isobarik setups are complicated (and you know this) to make sound right, I was pretty much expecting something along the lines of "you are kidding right?".

:D

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Im suprised this hasnt been said yet, but I would never consider adding a sub to a stock system. Putting that money into a nice replacement head unit is going to make your stock speakers sound 10 times better, and would provide sub level control, MP3/WMA playback, Sirius/XM radio options, and perhaps HD Radio. I would highly recommend that as a first step. Alpine, Eclipse, and Kenwood all should be on your shopping list.

At least if you are looking for sound quality... if you just want your car to be loud then I cant help you. You're dead to me... :lol:

 

C

 

Im already looking at Alpine decks but havent quite chosen the one I want yet - The biggest thing for me in a new deck will be the sound quality(were Alpine reigns supreme), and having an Aux input(I want to plug my Zune up and listen to tunes off of it) -- The rest of the listed things(HD Radio/XM/Sirius and such) are not needed for me at all to be honest... Just a nice well rounded sound

 

Now, as Ive said before, the stock speakers in the car are some Infinity speakers(though I dont know the wattages or anything) -- They are by no means bad speakers, so I have no plans on replacing them.. -- So, assuming I can only afford either a sub and amp or a new headunit for now, what would you all recommend for starting with? Ill eventually have both but itll probably be a few months down the road for the second upgrade - Im sort of a bass lover, but if adding in a sub with the stock deck makes music sound like crap, whats the point?

 

Would it be a pain to install the sub and amp only to have to rewire it all again when I get a new deck or will it be as simple as moving the wires over to the new deck? (Im looking at doing the installation myself in order to save some money :blink:)

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Obviously its hard to portray sarcasm over the internet but isobarik setups are complicated (and you know this) to make sound right, I was pretty much expecting something along the lines of "you are kidding right?".

:D

Isobaric is easy actually...you just use a box that's half the size needed for a single driver. :)

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Isobaric is easy actually...you just use a box that's half the size needed for a single driver. :)
I said "not easy to make sound right", not "not easy to construct"

 

I think we've hijacked this thread enough already... :D

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