AJCpar Posted June 13, 2012 Posted June 13, 2012 Hey guys! Recently I've decided I wanted to build a new computer (as my old premade system was getting old). After weeks of arduous research and editing my build, I've finally come up with one that I like! I will be using this rig for mostly gaming, but also for everyday work (such as writting papers, browsing the web, etc.), editing video, and streaming gameplay. I will also be planning to upgrade to a SLI configuration for the GPU. I will be planning to OC the processor and the GPU, so one of my questions lies in do I really need to get a factory OC'd GPU if I plan to OC it myself as well? Please do note, however, that I will be ordering parts at the around early to mid July, so the deals and combos that exist this month (particularly on newegg) may not exist then. Also, I will be ordering parts from the US, so I will be using sites such as amazon, newegg, and NCIX. Finally, as most of you may know, NCIX requires a purchase of $50 or more to get free shipping, and if you can find another of my components for cheaper somewhere else, if it is for a couple of dollars, I would prefer to keep that item with NCIX, as to have $50 or more on my order from them so I can get that free shipping! And finally, a few caveats before I begin. I do not have a monitor, so the system itself will have to be under budget. This will be my first time building a rig, so please do not change anything I have to be extremely complicated (although I don't know how you would do that...). Finally, I would prefer to keep my processor as an Intel one (yes, Intel-fanboy I know...) and my GPU as a NVidia one (NVidia fanboy also...). So lets begin! Case: Cooler Master HAF XM ($130) PSU: Corsair TX850 V2 850W ($128) Motherboard: ASRock Z77 Extreme4 ($143) GPU: EVGA GTX 670 FTW ($420) CPU: Intel i5-3570k Processor ($235) CPU Heatsink/Fan Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO ($32) RAM: Kingston Hyper X Blu 8GB (2 x 4GB) ($43) SSD: Crucial M4 258GB ($204) HDD: Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB ($80) Optical Drive: ASUS DRW-24B1ST 24X DVD Drive ($17 with price match) Monitor: ASUS VG235H ($285 not sure about the dealer though...) or here ($300) Wireless adapter: TP-LINK TL-WN722N ($18) Anti-static Wriststrap: Belkin Anti-Static Wriststrap ($5 with price match to Amazon) Additional 200mm fan: Cooler Master Megaflow 200mm Red LED fan ($12) Fan power extention: 3-pin Female to 2 3-pin male extention ($3.50) Total: $1755.50 I would really appreciate any input you guys have on the build. Thanks! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
nickk47 Posted June 13, 2012 Posted June 13, 2012 You don't need that antistatic wriststrap, never used it once in any of my builds. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
vandreadstriker Posted June 13, 2012 Posted June 13, 2012 You've perfected your build as far as I can see Only thing I'd suggest is getting a better cooler like the Noctua NH-UP12 or NH-D14 if you're going to overclock. I've my doubts on how the Hyper212 would handle the excess heat of the 3570K when overclocked. You won't need a factory overclocked GPU if you're gonna overclock it anyways. But if you're getting a card with better aftermarket cooling, they usually come factory overclocked already. Another factor is some Manufacturer binned their cards so you may have a higher chance in getting a card that overclocks better than the majority of it. And since you're going to buy them in early-mid July, see if you can get this card instead: ASUS GTX670-DC2 - $419.99 Same price as the one you've linked but with better cooling and better VRM. But it's currently out of stock. Just a note, the Corsair PSU is $134.99 and the ASRock Board is also $134.99 (not $128 and $143) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forb Posted June 13, 2012 Posted June 13, 2012 One thing you may want to take notice of is your RAM. Intel officially recommends a 1.5v maximum for your RAM. The Kingston RAM you selected uses a 1.65v to reach its advertised speeds. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tjj226_Angel Posted June 13, 2012 Posted June 13, 2012 You have a really nice setup, but with a couple of tweaks it could be a lot better. I would change the mobo to http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128544 this. For 10 dollars more, you get a much more reliable board. Supposedly the gigabyte board is also better for overclocking, but I am not one hundred percent on that. Next for your video card, I would bump it a little bit further than what vandreadstriker recommended, and go with this http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814121638 . It is basically an overclocked version of the asus card vandreadstriker suggested, which means you could overclock it even more to squeeze every last bit of performance out of your card possible. For ram Forb is right. Having the proper voltage on your ram doesn't matter too terribly much, but 1.65v on ram is a bit out dated. Everything has moved to a 1.5v standard for ram. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233144 This is a lot better. It is a reliable company, it looks cool, and it performs really well. You can't go wrong. I would switch your hard drive to a seagate 1TB 7200 RMP drive to take advantage of their whole 1TB disk platter campaign. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822148840 Long story short, it is a faster hard drive. Also, change that wireless adapter. If you are doing any online gaming line FPS games such as MW3 or BF3, you want to have an adapter that supports dual band, and wireless N. Also make sure you have a router than can support wireless N and dual band as well. Something such as this...http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833320089 or http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833156054 this. Which ever one suits your personal preference. Get rid of the bracelet. If you plan on overclocking, get this http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835146011 if you don't want to overclock, then get hyper 212 plus. Other than those changes, you should be good to go. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AJCpar Posted June 13, 2012 Posted June 13, 2012 (edited) Thanks for all the suggestions guys! @Tjj226_Angel When I first started making my build I had the ram as the Corsair Vengeance RAM, but heard that the heatspreaders got in the way of the CPU cooler (and as of now I don't plan on OCing the processor...). Hopefully when I get back to the states next month it will have a good combo deal (preferably with the HAF XM *fingers crossed*). Also, I'll probably go with that card, but I may just go with the one that vandread suggested if I really don't want to squeeze out that extra 10 dollars along with the extra money I'm spending on the RAM and the adapter (but I'll take out the bracelet). Also, when I do upgrade to the SLI configuration, I've heard that PCI card wireless adapters do not work well because it has to sit between the 2 GPUs but I'm not 100% sure on that... Finally, I heard instead of using the anti-static wrist strap I could just touch the metal part of the case every once in a while to release the static build up correct? P.S. I'm not a FPSer myself; More of a Starcraft guy . But I guess same basic concept of the-lower-the-ping-the-better! @vandreadstriker I put down the wrong link for the PSU . I meant to put the link to Amazon in which I could get it for $128, not newegg, and the price for the card was the price including shipping. One final thing that is not related to any of the responses so far (which I greatly appreciate by the way!), what other USB 3.0 devices exist other than USB Flash Drives? The keyboard and mouse I will be using with the system (Das Professional Model S, and Ttesports Black Element) both operate through USB 2.0 hubs, and I can't think for the life of me other devices that use USB 3.0... Thanks! EDIT: Fixed typo (Whoops!!!) Edited June 13, 2012 by AJCpar Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
vandreadstriker Posted June 13, 2012 Posted June 13, 2012 The heatspreades on the Vengeance won't obstruct the Hyper212 (or the HAVIK 140 for that matter) but it also depends on the Motherboard layout. However, if you went with something big like the NH-D14 like I suggested, it'd get in the way no doubt. I've used the Havik 140 and Vengeance with ASUS P8Z68-V Pro and the Havik 140 would only take one of the RAM slots (the nearest towards the CPU socket). You can still plug them on the other 3 remaining slots. For Motherboards, it's a matter of preference. If you don't have anything wrong with ASRock, go with it. If you like Gigabyte better, then go with it. There would be minor differences in performance, yes, but it's usually negligible in real world. Some boards may let you overclock to 5.0GHz while some only to 4.6GHz but really, with an IB chip, I doubt anyone wants to push it till 5Ghz without Custom Watercooling. So that factor is a moot. Honestly, you won't need a GTX670 if you're not playing games with very intense graphics. Something like the GTX570 or 580 would serve you very well. That would lower your cost further too. However, if you do want to hold on to this rig for a while, then the GTX670 is the way to go. Depending on your board layout, it may or may not obstruct SLI configuration. For the ASRock Z77 Extreme4, you won't be able to use the PCI slots since it would either obstruct airflow or the installation of the entire GPU itself. You can always discard them when you're ready to SLI your rig though But yes, I myself tend to keep PCI slots unobstructed. Right now, USB 3.0 only comes in handy for Flash drives and external HDDs. Mouse, keyboards, etc.. won't gain much from using a USB 3.0 port. But it really helps when you do lot's of data transfers to and from an external drive/flash drive. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AJCpar Posted June 13, 2012 Posted June 13, 2012 The heatspreades on the Vengeance won't obstruct the Hyper212 (or the HAVIK 140 for that matter) but it also depends on the Motherboard layout. However, if you went with something big like the NH-D14 like I suggested, it'd get in the way no doubt. I've used the Havik 140 and Vengeance with ASUS P8Z68-V Pro and the Havik 140 would only take one of the RAM slots (the nearest towards the CPU socket). You can still plug them on the other 3 remaining slots. For Motherboards, it's a matter of preference. If you don't have anything wrong with ASRock, go with it. If you like Gigabyte better, then go with it. There would be minor differences in performance, yes, but it's usually negligible in real world. Some boards may let you overclock to 5.0GHz while some only to 4.6GHz but really, with an IB chip, I doubt anyone wants to push it till 5Ghz without Custom Watercooling. So that factor is a moot. Honestly, you won't need a GTX670 if you're not playing games with very intense graphics. Something like the GTX570 or 580 would serve you very well. That would lower your cost further too. However, if you do want to hold on to this rig for a while, then the GTX670 is the way to go. Depending on your board layout, it may or may not obstruct SLI configuration. For the ASRock Z77 Extreme4, you won't be able to use the PCI slots since it would either obstruct airflow or the installation of the entire GPU itself. You can always discard them when you're ready to SLI your rig though But yes, I myself tend to keep PCI slots unobstructed. Right now, USB 3.0 only comes in handy for Flash drives and external HDDs. Mouse, keyboards, etc.. won't gain much from using a USB 3.0 port. But it really helps when you do lot's of data transfers to and from an external drive/flash drive. Well the Noctua NH-D14 is a little out of my budget for now, so I think I'll stick with the Hyper 212 EVO for the time being and upgrade when it's time to start OCing the CPU. As for the WiFi Adapter, I'll just go with the USB one, so as to not have to go through as much trouble when implementing the SLI into my build (besides if I REALLY needed that extra USB slot I could just get a splitter. Not a problem), and from what I've seen, the USB adapter Angel suggested works a lot better than the PCI one. Thanks for the info as well! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
vandreadstriker Posted June 13, 2012 Posted June 13, 2012 You can get the Low Profile Vengeance instead, so you won't need to change RAM when you upgrade your cooler. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AJCpar Posted June 13, 2012 Posted June 13, 2012 The low profile model costs around 5 dollars more? It's just crazy what some companies do to get money... Well will the NH-D14 would it be ok to just move the ram, and maybe install 1 stick of low profile ram in the first slot for 12GB or ram? Or is it just impossible? One final thing... What are some good computer building guides you guys like to use? I believe newegg has a pretty good one on youtube, and I have the PC Gamer guide handy as well, if there are any others, let me know! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stonerboy779 Posted June 13, 2012 Posted June 13, 2012 There I'd a good guide stickied here on occ You could run 12GB but best performance is from two sticks in dual channel config Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AJCpar Posted June 13, 2012 Posted June 13, 2012 Ok I'll definitely take a look at it! So should I just replace the RAM when it comes time to switch? I might just buy a 16GB set at that point because I know my other desktop computer would have a lot good done to it if it had some more RAM! Thanks for all your help! I've got no questions left Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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