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vandreadstriker

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Everything posted by vandreadstriker

  1. Hey guys! Long time no see! I've been out of the loop for quite a while now (work, classes, yada-yada...) and I'm kinda itching to create a build again.. First things first, I've two 'build project' in mind and sadly I only have time and money for either one: 1. A "home server" for storing videos, pictures, music, etc... Basically a PC that will hold back-ups of all my family's precious moments, digitized documents, etc, (2 seperate drives, one willl be accessed periodically from other PCs in the house to back-up individual files while the other would back-up the first drive every month or so) It will also act as a HTPC connected to the home router where my family can move movies (or other things) and stream them to the SmartTV in the living room (or connected to the TV right away, whichever works) 2. A new PC for my Dad. He's been using my rig that I left at home for a while now and recently, the board just went ka-put. The processor is safe, fortunately, but this is precisely why I'm asking for opinions from you guys... I've done some reading/catching up on the G3258-AE but something is still a mystery to me: Where is it aimed at? Is it for HTPCs? Home Workers? etc...? Since its overclockable, surely its aimed at overclockers one way or the other. But in terms of performance, how would you use it in real-life tasks? I was thinking that I'll be getting this chip for a new build for my Dad, then get a new board for the Phenom II and use it for the "home-server" build. But I've no idea how the G3258 stacks up against the Phenom II. Obviously, a "home-server" as I've described above wouldn't need some serious fire-power. Meanwhile, my Dad uses his for reading PDFs, making presentations, light-editing some pictures, ocassionally ripping movies for his iPad, etc.. (You know, day-to-day task of an all-rounder PC) So which one should I get for my Dad and which one for the home server? That's why I'm looking to see if some of you guys had a chance to play with one already and perhaps share some thoughs on the matter. Is it a good enough chip to plug a GTX760 to it for gaming? Is it an overkill OC chip for writing up documents and day-to-day tasks? Is it too hot or too power hungry for a HTPC? Those kind of stuff.. Any sensible inputs would be appreciated guys! Cheers!
  2. I'm a bit sceptical on the 750K's performance. It seems to be on par with the 5800K and if so, I think I'd rather get a 6800K and a 6670 to crossfire with.. I'll take a look on those articles more thoroughly but I'm also sceptical whether getting an i3 or Pentium would be of much benefit as well... From what I've gathered, the 5800K/6800K is about on par with i3 3xxx series? The benefit of the A10 would be they're overclockable and strong iGPUs. If so, am I correct in taking the assumption that I'd gain better performance overclocking the A10 and doing a hybrid crossfire with a 6670? (instead of a stock i3 + 650) Well, like I said in my OP, don't bother with HDD, Monitors, Keyboard, etc. I have a few HDD lying around here so I'd definitely prefer getting an SSD instead. As for the case, I don't think I'd bother getting a case atm. My room is cramped and I'll be setting the system up on my open-shelf (kinda like an open test bench once completed) Also, yeah it'd be nice to have a compact form factor. But it won't be a priority. Just that it'd be nice if I can get a good system specification that performs well and it just so happens that it's compact as well I am considering doing using a 6670. Though after doing some digging, I found these: http://www.overclock.net/t/1383583/first-hand-experience-performance-of-a8-5600k-crossfire-with-amd-hd6670/10 http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/showthread.php?t=184989 As far as I'm aware, Trinity/Richland are VLIW4 based instead of GCN. How they're able to crossfire with a 7750, I have no idea. Does anyone have any idea how much of a boost I can get with a 8670D+7750 instead of say a 7660D+6770? Also, is it strictly 7750 only or can I crossfire it with a 7770 as well?
  3. Well, I've yet to decide on a budget.. It'll really depend on how much I have on me when I do build the system: But to be more clear, I guess I'd like it to be nearer to $500. So, if possible, let's assume that the budget would be $500 just for the essentials (CPU+GPU+PSU+RAM+SSD. Coolers and etc would be tomorrow's problem) but if it's impossible to get a decent spec, shoot for $800 Thanks EDIT: I forgot to link to a store. Either would be fine: http://www.waroengkom.com http://www.nanokomputer.com And the exchange rate is US$1 = IDR 10k so $500 is IDR 5mil.
  4. Long time no see OCC! Gosh, I've only been inactive for ~4 months here and yet it felt like a whole year Have been really busy for the last 4 months. Studies were a B**** and the exam period was a complete . I usually consider myself as "Smart-ish" (never had bad grades yet never had outstanding ones either) but this time, all my fingers are crossed. Why am I telling you this? Well I'm planning on continuing my studies anyway and I'm pretty sure it'd be even more difficult to find some free time, especially during exam periods. I had barely used my system for anything and eventually gave it to my parents (their system went south and I couldn't care less what happened). Have been practically living off my notebook since the end of 2012 (hooked to my 22") and it's starting to get to my nerves. Its slow (seems like some issue with the OS and didn't have time to do a back-up and fresh install), runs incredibly hot (streaming youtube got it to ~80c and I don't even know how) and thus cannot be used for any games (Missed Tomb Raider, Black Ops 2, Metro Last Light, CRYSIS 3; just to name a few). And now, just when I completed my BottleHead Crack Amplifier, the drive won't spin my music CDs! So, with my notebook being useless for any demanding task and my likely diminishing free time in the next couple of years, I've been contemplating on building a system that would at least allow me to game a bit and yet not be a complete waste if I can't use it on a regular basis. Something in the lines of: - Can game on 1080p with moderate - high setting - Cost effective (needless to say, money is going to be a bit tight) - Compact (I'd likely be going abroad so being able to carry it with me could be a plus, but not necessary) - Silent (As of right now, I've no space for a case so I'd set it up on my open shelf, along with my console, DVD/CDs, books, etc) -> Essentially, a system that is powerful enough for things like Games, Word/Excel/Powerpoint/, Ripping videos, etc (those things you do day to day) and yet not so powerful as to waste money (am I making sense here?) Guess I'll elaborate a little. I don't need games to run on Ultra with various AA/AF settings, etc. I just want it to run without stuttering and yet be good enough graphics wise that its pleasing to the eyes when I game (no rough edges, etc while I play through the story). As long as its playable and looks good enough to the naked eye (in the midst of all the actions etc of the games), it's not wasting money or resources IMO. I want it to launch Firefox quickly but not instantaneously, just that it doesn't take ages to open (like 1 minute, 2 minute, etc. I'd like it to be within a few seconds upon launching). Same goes for Word/Excel/Powerpoint/iTunes, etc. Video ripping, I don't need it to be ridiculously fast. (e.g ripping a 120 minute video in under 30 mins). I just need it to rip within reasonable time (1 hour, 2 hour, 3 hour; not 12-24 hours). Needless to say I want it to be cool enough to let me do some little overclocking if possible to 'future proof' the system it being silent is definitely a huge plus. I guess in some ways, I'm wishing for it to be similar to console. It can run games with beautiful graphics and smoothly, without being too expensive. (Really Psych about PS4! Finally, Kingdom Hearts 3!) But consoles wouldn't let me do presentations or rip DVDs or sync my phone. I hope I'm doing a good job here in painting a picture... I've no budget in mind but I guess right now I'm sure I want it under $800. The cheaper the better. Right now, I'm thinking of APU. The 5800K/6800K with a NH-U12S would definitely be very nice I suppose. Its able to play games at low-medium setting, with medium-high setting barely playable (30FPS or so... (?)). Adding a 6770 and do a hybrid crossfire would be nice in getting playable framerates at reasonable quality, I think(?) I'm having trouble putting the pieces together. If I had $1000 to spend then I guess it wouldn't be a problem (4670K, any good Z87 board, GTX760/HD7950, 600W PSU etc. Done deal.) but it would be an overkill for me (I don't need 760, heck my old GTX 460 would do what I want) and therefore a waste of money. Things like "What board should I get for the best combo?", "If I spent more on this, what should I skimp on?" and similar questions are preventing me from putting the pieces together. Also I may or may not build this system in the near future (I might even wait for Kaveri, depending on my situation) but I'm sure that I'd build a system be it next month or a year from now. So guys, I'm really, really hoping that you can help me here. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks
  5. Agree with what ComputerEd said, you won't benefit much from the HT if your video editing activities are 'moderate'. I'd personally define moderate as a "side-job", "not rushed by deadlines"; something that you do on an on/off basis (therefore, no hardcore skills utilised, no very demanding workload). So, if you're doing 'Moderate', I'd say get an i5. If you're doing 'More than moderate', get an i7. If its your whole life (24/7 rendering & editing), get a 2011 X79 system (i7 3820 or even a 3930K). It really depends on what you do and how you do them. If you won't overclock, ever, you have no use of the K SKUs (and that NH-D14. No overclock = better stick with stock or Low Profile coolers). But a quick search reveals that the i5 3450 is ~$30 cheaper, while the 3570 is ~$15 cheaper. At those prices (and if I have the money to spare), I'd get a 3570K in a heartbeat. Doesn't really burn your pocket that much; better stock performance and, most of all, a chance to overclock. Its your choice really, but when you look at the prices, it's hard to justify getting a 3450/3570 over a 3570K unless you're on a "stick tightly to budget" policy. I'd personally say get a K SKU if you're looking for an i5/i7 CPU (again, if you have money to spare). Now, I always believe that you're wasting good resources if you go and buy a K SKU but get a Board with no proper equipment for overclocking (bad phase design, no cooling on VRMs, those things). So I honestly think that you shouldn't choose your first option. It's an ASUS board all right, but you'd really need something "beefier" than that for an overclocked IvyBridge CPU IMO. Quick search on 3570K + Sabertooth Z77 cost ~$550, so why not compromise? Get a 3770K for 330 + a Gigabyte Z77X-UD5H for $188? A great performing board, an i7 and a good price. At this point, any 'high(er)-end' board would be good for you. IMO generally speaking, "high(er)-end boards from ASUS (the likes of "-V", "-V Pro", "Sabertooth", "ROG"), Gigabyte (anything with an "X" ending on the chipset, e.g Z77X-UD3H) , ASRock (Anything denoting with "Extreme" or "Fatal1ty") or MSI (Those board with a "G", e.g Z77A-GD65) usually have no noticeable difference in performance at stock. When you overclock them, some will be able to go higher, some with better voltage, etc; but clock-for-clock, they all perform very similarly in terms of computing performance. So you really don't need to insist on hanging to a certain brand really. ASUS and Gigabyte in general provide board with excellent durability, some people are kind of avoiding ASRock & MSI (though I have no real issues after dealing with both on different systems) Gaming, anything with a good GPU would do. This, IMO, is another reason not to overspend on a Motherboard. If you get an i5 3570K + a Gigabyte Z77X-UD5H instead (~$418 instead of $530-550 for 3770K combo), you'd be able to get a HD7870 or at the very least a HD7850.
  6. My recommendations: Intel i5 3570K + G.Skill RipjawsX 8GB (2x4GB) 1600 Combo - $270.98 ASRock Z77 Extreme4 - $124.99 Sapphire HD7870 GHz Ed - $219.99 ($204.99 after $15 MIR) Seagate Barracuda 2TB $104.99 OCZ Vertex4 128GB - $109.99 Antec EarthWatts Green 650W - $79.99 Total: ~$911 ($896 after MIR) At this point, you should also invest in some good CPU coolers. You're buying an Unlocked SKU and a capable Motherboard after all, kinda wasted if you don't overclock your CPU sometime in the future. Something like this or this should prep you nicely (I prefer the later)
  7. 1. Yes it does. IIRC it'll use the 140mm fan mounts on top. 2. Not sure, but likely yes. There's a video in youtube showing how to mount a H100 below those 2x200mm fans, not sure if it'll work on the H100i. Won't really affect CPU temps IMO whether or not you decide to use the 140s + 200s or just the 140s. A radiator would need a fan that pushes more static pressure while a case fan usually pushes more airflow and less static pressure.
  8. Agree with Waco.. I personally don't see it as what the guy in the video makes it look to be. Yes the voltage spikes, but its still acceptable in my books (since the board was not meant for intense overclocking sessions to begin with) I honestly haven't seen any board out there doing near perfect (flawless, no spike whatsoever) in terms of LLC settings. What matters would be the real voltage, not the difference between what the software reports and what the DMM reports.
  9. This is true and has always been. It's also a reason why Phenom IIs were eyed by many people before, including myself. Those Core 2 Quads may have the performance, but not value. Phenom IIs came with good performance (more than enough for most users at the time) while coming in as low as 50% the price of Intel's offerings. But when you're talking about gaming, CPU doesn't count much. As long as it doesn't bottleneck your GPU, you'll get similar results between a system using the lowest-end CPU possible or the highest-end CPU. Sure it has an effect, but you're talking a difference of 2-3FPS at best; something that won't end the world if you already have playable framerates to begin with.. I think a lot of the critical comments and feelings come from frustration with AMD as a company. They really over hyped the FX line as they built to it and to get a chip that is not much of an improvement over the existing line (Phenom II) and even worse in some cases was a HUGE let down after all the hype they pumped into us. I also think a lot of the reason comes from the fact that core for core the FX is NOT as fast as Intel in most tests. You are correct in general gaming there is not enough difference to matter. However when you go to buy a chip the common thinking is that you can get an Intel chip for the same price as the 8350 and have something that in core to core testing is faster and uses less power.In fact if you go to a Microcenter you can actually buy an i5 for less than the 3850. As for the 3820, I totally agree. Unless you are picking up one very cheap there is just no reason to get it over an i5 or even an FX for a gaming system. Well other than bragging rights. Uhh.. Who was it that made all this hype? Oh right, its us. Yeah they didn't meet our expectations, but it's not completely unreasonable. IIRC AMD has been second to Intel in terms of core-per-core performance since Socket 939 came out (probably even before that). Come AM3 and still they were behind Intel by quite a length. And here we were all expecting them to beat Intel out of the blue? I admit, I'm one of those who were disappointed as well. But I don't think its right for us to blame them for not meeting the Hype that we, ourselves made. The problem now is, like you and Waco said, it ain't worth the price. For the same price you can get a better performing, lower power i5. I've said it before and I'll say it again, if the (then just released) 8150 was priced at $160-180 price (Thuban prices), I'd get one over the 2500K ($220) any-day. I thought AMD did say that they're going to focus more on the APUs and less on competing with Intel on the high-end chips.. And when you follow their progress, they're slowly catching up with i3 performances (which is enough for gaming) with discrete graphics capabilities. All they need is an integrated 89xx like you said earlier and it'll be the perfect little mean gaming system.
  10. [quote name=Kuronin" post="2077237" time="1361211227]I don't understand why you guys are being critical of AMDs FX series, the 8350 is neck to neck against the 3820 in general gaming and actually beat out the 3820 in 3Dmark at 1080p. source: http://www.overclockersclub.com/reviews/amd_fx8350/11.htm I may just skip the Richland and wait to see what the Kaveri has to offer. Your keyword here: Gaming. CPU won't improve FPS. My i5 powered notebook can even beat a 3970X when it comes to gaming. How? Simple, my notebook has a GPU (or rather, an iGPU).
  11. I agree with DnaAngel. You're shelling out $50 more for a 2-4oC better performance which, IMHO, is seriously worthless unless you're planning to really push as far as possible (in which, if you did, you likely won't be asking this question). Even a Hyper212 Evo can go a long way, and they only cost $35. That being said, I recommend the NZXT Havik 140. Haven't personally tried the OCK or the DK2 but the Havik 140 is second only to the D14 in my experience (well 3rd if you count the original H100.) Water does displace heat better than air, but design also plays a big role. Fact that you're only seeing a minor decrease in temps when switching to a H100 from a D14 proofs that. At its current state, AIO water coolers just ain't worth the money compared to high-end air coolers IMHO.
  12. 83oFahrenheit? Are you 100% sure? Cause that equates to 23oCentigrade which is practically impossible IMO at load. If it's 83oC instead of oF then it makes much more sense. It really depends on how comfortable you are with those temperatures. For me, anything higher than 80oC for a GPU is a big no-no and I wouldn't recommend anyone to run at those temps from day-to-day. Personally I try to maintain them below 75-78oC when gaming. (Bare in mind that Stress testing with Burn-in software such as FurMark will yield higher temperatures than normal gaming loads)
  13. Dug this up: Source and guess what? Seems like the Richland APUs are still going to feature VLIW architecture (Northern Islands). Booooo So much for getting my hopes up on a Graduation gift Still hopping that the article OP gave is true though. If performance have indeed much improve, Steamroller would likely not disappoint. Here's hopping that Kaveri APUs will come in early 3Q 2013 *fingers crossed*
  14. When you remember how AMD have been squishing as many cores as possible into a die, I'd say it's only a matter of time. One APU, One m-ATX board, One hell of a performance. That's the dream
  15. If the article is indeed legit, then these APU will surely find its way to my future system. Would definitely make up to be a great gaming system, especially now that those iGPUs are based on GCN cores. Although it may be pushing it, I hope this is a sign that AMD is stepping up their A games once more. Fingers crossed.
  16. What sucks for you is that, pretty much any decent air cooler out there (the kind you want for overclocking) will most likely cover at least 1 slot on the X79 Sabertooth. That's just how it is, with how tight the spacing is between the socket and the RAM slots. So.. SOL.. What you can do (and what IMO is the most sensible thing to do) is get the same pair of Vengeance RAMs for a 32GB config (4x8GB) and insert them on the light-brown slots (which aren't obstructed). Then, when you decide to go for 64GB, get a Low Profile Quad-Channel 32GB kit (like these or these) and populate the remaining slots. Those Low Profile RAMs would fit snugly under the Cooler without problems (though you'll likely need to remove the cooler first, no biggy) And yes, you can get PCI/PCI-E SATA controller cards to get more SATA slots. Never used one personally though (never really had to populate all my slots) Slightly OT but didn't they improve the fan noise on the "i" variant of the H100 ? Those fans used on the H100i are SP120 Performance Editions on steroids (spins up to 2700RPM compared to 2350RPM). The original SP120 PEs aren't quiet to begin with so the H100i still generates a lot of noise, despite being quieter than the original H100. (Of course, "Noise" is subjective)
  17. It looks to me that you've done (almost) everything right. Seeing that it's your first time doing an entirely new build, I've got to say you've picked good components for your need (Great choice of board & CPU esp. for the price, not wasting on a 3960/70X or AIO coolers) Some things I've observed: - You're getting an X79 system which supports Quad-Channel RAM. Better make use of that and get a Quad-Channel Kit like these. Don't get anything faster than a DDR3 1600 since they only negligible boost in performance (waste of money). Since you're an Art Director, you'd likely benefit from more RAMs (CMIIW) so you might want to get a 32GB or 64GB kit while you're on it. - A 1200W PSU is an overkill really. Nothing wrong with it but just keep in mind that you really don't need anything higher than 850W for your current setup, in case you need to replace them someday (IMO even an 850W has a lot of headroom for your current setup). - You forgot an SSD! At this day and age, SSD is a must if you can get one IMO. I'd recommend getting at least 120GB to start with just for your OS but if you got enough, there's nothing wrong with a bigger one. IMO there's really no point in getting an AIO cooler at this point. Yes, the H100i/H110 is the best "Mainstream Cooler" in the market, but you're spending $50 more than a NH-D14 (The King of Air coolers) for what, shave 3oC in temperatures? Heck, you'll likely not even need the kind of temperature the H100i/H110 offers unless you're doing some "extreme" overclocking. Not to mention the noise those fans generates. Point is, it's not worth buying. Just my 2c Edit: Also, unless you're planning on Gaming (and with a 120Hz monitor or multi-monitor setup), I don't think you'd need to crossfire. The 6970 is perfectly capable of playing today's game at High-Ultimate settings in 1080p. IIRC 'consumer' GPUs won't benefit much for photoshop so no point in getting an extra "oomph" from a crossfire setup.
  18. I won't really recommend anyone to get an X79 system for gaming. Massive overkill really. IMO for a gaming system, right now you have two good (wise) option: IvyBridge or wait for Haswell. It's the only thing you'd need for a gaming system, really. As far as 'future proofing' is concerned, my old Phenom II X3 720 at stock can still do everything I need without problems after 4 years. (Occasional rendering, Video ripping, gaming, photoshop, office, etc.) Today, you can get a Z77 system which is 'leaps and bound' ahead of an AM3 system. I dare say you'll likely "Just want to replace cause I can" a Z77 system before its actually made obsolete. (Also, based on leaked info, the only real benefit you'd get from Haswell is lower power consumptions.) Your main concern should be on the GPU side of things, not your CPU IMHO. I'm not sure if you'd need more than 2x680s or 7970s but I'd take the G.1 Sniper board like wevspot said, just in case you need more PCI-E lanes. Also, I doubt you'd get to put those RAMs to good use. Anything higher than 1600 only provides negligible performance boost in real performance IMO, especially on a Gaming system.
  19. MoBo, with a B :tongue: @OP: those tall heatsink on the vengeance would definitely cause problems. Like Stoner said, there are Low Profile version of those vengeance RAMs but I can't find them in newegg. The next best thing I found was this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231508 Here's a list of compatible RAMs with the D14: http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=compatibility_ram_gen&products_id=34&lng=en
  20. IIRC WinXP is the only one who'd throw a tantrum when you change boards. I believe W7 doesn't do that any more but since you're using RAID0, I'd say better format those HDDs first. And I agree with Prunes, that system would be a waste really.. Its even better than my late gaming system..
  21. Agree with all of the above... Definitely stay with RAID6. Don't really know much about RAID controllers but this seems to be one of the best AFAIK: LSI MegaRAID SATA/SAS 9260-4i 6Gb/s PCI-Express 2.0 w/ 512MB onboard memory RAID Controller Card, Kit If you insist on staying single CPU, I'd say get this board instead: ASRock X79 Extreme9 Might not have the 'ASUS edge' or be a tank like the TUF, but it has sh*tload of SATA ports, good powerphase design and solid performance as far as I can tell. Plus a free sound card/network card... Like bluecow said, you don't really need anything quicker than 1600 so here's something you might fancy: CORSAIR Vengeance 64GB (8 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 Desktop Memory Model CMZ64GX3M8A1600C9 You really don't want to skimp out on PSU. Sh*t happens and when it does, your PSU can fry the whole system. The Thortech Thunderbolt seems quite alright from reviews but voltage regulations seems a bit off. I really suggest getting Seasonic made PSUs instead. The X-1050 only cost $5 more afterall (50W for $5 more doesn't seem unreasonable in this case..) Also, out of curiosity, what SSD do you have in mind?
  22. Might as well beef up the GPU a bit and get the GA-970A-UD3 since it also comes with free RAMs.. Give you a better chance in overclocking should you want to. Adding Mythos' PSU, I'll throw in some of my own: COMBO CPU: AMD FX 6300 (Vishera) - $129.99 GPU: Sapphire 7770 Vapor-X - $139.99 _____________Save $9_____________ $260.98 ($245.98 after $15 MIR) MB: Gigabyte GA-970A-UD3 - $114.99 RAM: G.Skill Value Series 2x4GB 1600MHz - Free HDD: Seagate Barracuda ST320DM000 320GB - $59.99 (There's a 500GB for $59.99 on Shell Shocker, dunno till when) PSU: Antec Neo 620C - $49.99 ($29.99 after $20 MIR) Case: NZXT Source 210 - $39.99 ($31.99 after 20% off w/ promo code, end 1/30) Total: $525.94 ($482.94 after MIR and Discount)
  23. Isn't that the whole idea behind powerphase? My dumb understanding: VRM are buck converters (converts voltage from the PSU to a small enough amount usable by the CPU). Theoretically, more of them means more converters that which means there's lesser strain on each VRM. Lesser strain results in lesser inefficiencies (theoretically, they work less so less heat//waste are produced) so 'cleaner' voltages are supplied to the CPU = Less actual voltages needed. But IMO we need to take Qualities into account. If there's (for discussion purposes) 8 Grade C CPU VRMs on Board A and 8 Grade A CPU VRMs on Board B, Board B would likely convert 'cleaner' voltages and thus requiring less actual voltages. CMIIW
  24. I thought those cards generate both 3.0s and 2.0s? But in order to utilise the 3.0s, you'd need to connect a separate USB 3.0 header onto the board (those that comes with cases these days)
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