Owenisbad Posted August 29, 2011 Posted August 29, 2011 Hehe, 92? I got my X1950Pro to 101oC and also it blue screened with colourful artifacts on the blue screen, I was told on this forum that is the memory almost going.. eek! (oh and the 101 was a separate event, I was too busy blue screening the other time to check the temp but one can assume it was similar or even higher). I can beat that! I got an x1900 to 115c once from running 10 seconds of the CS:S stress test, turns out the fan wasn't connected Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waco Posted August 29, 2011 Posted August 29, 2011 My 4870x2 hit 130+ on the vrms when I had my swiftech caldera waterblock on it. What a pos block that was. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wevsspot Posted August 29, 2011 Posted August 29, 2011 I'll bet that the fan bearing has just about given up the ghost. Noise - could be gunk build up that might be fixed by a thorough cleaning - but a lot of noise + high gpu temps + fan wanting to ramp up to 100% would point me to the bearing. And, if the bearing is going bad it could be overheating the entire cooler. Just my 2 cents worth. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brutality Posted August 30, 2011 Posted August 30, 2011 So after unscrewing 27 screws I am almost done and guess what lol... the 28th screw is down in a pipe and my screwdriver can't reach it lol... so gonna try and get a tiny scewdriver later today.... but... my card wasn't using pads for cooling.. it used TIM but I think I have some more NH-1, but should I clean it off using rubbing alcohol and apply some new, or how do I handle this situation? See attachments Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owenisbad Posted August 30, 2011 Posted August 30, 2011 Look on your heatsink, the card is using pads to cool everything except the processor. I don't think you will need to replace the tim unless you rubbed any off or anything so you should be fine, just make sure you've got all of the dust out and put it back together Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stonerboy779 Posted August 30, 2011 Posted August 30, 2011 (edited) Your tim is looking surprisingly fresh but while you are at this point and if you have some tim lying around, no harm in cleaning it off and replacing it. Also as it has been said everything else is pads. Which all still appear to be properly seated. Have fun with some compressed air, then back together again. Then I want to see your temps while it is stressed, would be interesting to see the difference. Edited August 30, 2011 by Stonerboy779 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wevsspot Posted August 30, 2011 Posted August 30, 2011 Personally I don't ever recommend re-using thermal paste once you break the original seal between the chipset and the heatsink. If I pull them apart they always get cleaned and a new application of TIM. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brutality Posted August 30, 2011 Posted August 30, 2011 (edited) Got the last screw out but I just can't take it a part... I've been looking over and over again and I am 99,9% sure I have taken out all screws, but I can only lift one side up nicely, but the other side seems like it just won't let go of something... been looking youtube for some time now but can't find any videos of anyone disassembling the fan casing (or whatever it's called) :S EDIT: Holy . I just found a last screw..... but it's partly under a pad... What do I do? I can't screw it out when it's under a pad :S Edited August 30, 2011 by Brutality Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wevsspot Posted August 30, 2011 Posted August 30, 2011 it's ok to remove the heatsink thermal pad. Set it aside for use later. I'd replace those too, but it's hard to find good thermal pads that are the right thickness to use as replacments. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brutality Posted August 30, 2011 Posted August 30, 2011 Ok so got it all apart (lifted the pad up a bit to remove the screw, and after cleaning I was able to roll it back over the screw and it stuck nicely) and was just removing old TIM, but some TIM has dripped down on the core (see attachment) I don't like the scratching noise it makes when my cloth touches the small squares... Do I need to clean that off, or is it enough that the inner square is cleaned? If it's needed to get that off too, please give me some advice :S Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wevsspot Posted August 30, 2011 Posted August 30, 2011 Depends on whether the factory TIM is conductive or not. Let's play it safe and assume that it is. Here is my procedure - it will scare you silly, but trust me I've been doing it for years without a single issue. Otherwise I wouldn't be giving you this golden nugget. Get a bottle of Ronsonol Lighter Fluid, a Q-Tip, can of Compressed Air and a Toothbrush. Squeeze some lighter fluid on the qtip and clean the areas around the core, taking care not to get any cotton strands stuck to the little diodes around the core. New qtip, repeat process until all of the heavy TIM residue is gone. Now take your clean toothbrush and squeeze some lighter fluid onto the bristles and brush the entire core and chip. Using a soft cloth wipe the bristles clean and repeat procedure. Continue to do that until you don't see any TIM residue left on the core, diodes or chip. Now blow off with the compressed air. You'll be left with a perfectly clean surface for applying the new TIM and remounting the heatsink. At this point you can finish off the core with a wipe of 90% or higher pure rubbing alcohol if you feel it's needed. I never do though. The lighter fluid leaves a perfectly clean residual free surface. You can substitute a paper towel for the qtip if you have small fingers or long fingernails Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brutality Posted August 30, 2011 Posted August 30, 2011 Depends on whether the factory TIM is conductive or not. Let's play it safe and assume that it is. Here is my procedure - it will scare you silly, but trust me I've been doing it for years without a single issue. Otherwise I wouldn't be giving you this golden nugget. Get a bottle of Ronsonol Lighter Fluid, a Q-Tip, can of Compressed Air and a Toothbrush. Squeeze some lighter fluid on the qtip and clean the areas around the core, taking care not to get any cotton strands stuck to the little diodes around the core. New qtip, repeat process until all of the heavy TIM residue is gone. Now take your clean toothbrush and squeeze some lighter fluid onto the bristles and brush the entire core and chip. Using a soft cloth wipe the bristles clean and repeat procedure. Continue to do that until you don't see any TIM residue left on the core, diodes or chip. Now blow off with the compressed air. You'll be left with a perfectly clean surface for applying the new TIM and remounting the heatsink. At this point you can finish off the core with a wipe of 90% or higher pure rubbing alcohol if you feel it's needed. I never do though. The lighter fluid leaves a perfectly clean residual free surface. I don't have any lighter fluid or compressed air... Isn't it possible to use rubbing alcohol on a q-tip and just wipe it off? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Please sign in to comment
You will be able to leave a comment after signing in
Sign In Now