Help me out in liquid cooling

[Xyz]

Hi, I'm a new bee in liquid cooling thing and I was kinda interested in knowing more about it.. That how can I do it? Parts required for it and some details about their role.. Thanks

[medbor]

blocks for all components you want (CPU, GPU, Motherboard, ram etc...) absorbs heat into the water, Pump moves the water (might need multiple depending on setup), Radiator cools the water with ambient air (the bigger the better usually), and last but not least a reservoir (for extra water so it does not run dry). Those parts and tubing in between is all that is needed.

[ir_cow]

i suggest reading sticky and older threads not to be rude but i feel this questions ask every week.

 

also WELCOME TO OCC!

Edited June 11, 2011 by hornybluecow

[Boinker]

Its about 25-50% more effective then the leading air cooling. The only Drawbacks are cost, assembly and test time, upkeep and hazard. The upkeep and hazard are the Regular 6 month flush and possible tubing replace. the hazard is if you have a failure or leak. Just like a HSF's fan failing our pumps can fail but rarely occur with proper maintenince. Now remember. Water cooling works nearly the same air cooling. the only real difference iis instead of heatpipes moving the heat away we have water doing that. Most all configurations for a WC loop will have a Block, Radiator, fans, pump, tubing, clamps, and reservoir. see parts listing below. If tested properly, configured correctly, and assembled with care a watercooling loop can become a long lasting, quiet and very effective cooling system. you can also use waterblock for the video cards. There is also one other kind of WC and that is a self contained unit such as a coolit Domino or a Corsair H50. They do not perform as well but they do not cost near as much. Just remember as always. I recommend testing a WC loop for 4 days straight with White paper towels under it to verify that there are no leaks. This way there is no nervousness when placing something expensive under a live WC loop. for now I would start out with a processor only loop. They will be as follows below.

 

Also, What kind of case do you have. This will drastically effect what kind of loop you can use.

 

 

Parts are as follows.

 

Processor, video card, or just about any other component you can think of water block: as it states it is the cooling effort attached to said component that produces alot of heat. They come with all different flavors and colors for all kinds of processor sockets: swiftech, XSPC and EK are very good block for there price point. Im not going to mess with Video card blocks, chipset or hard drive blocks for now.

 

Radiator and radiator fans: after the Block moves the processorsheat to the radiator where it is cycled into air. (this is where people confuse performance with silent operation. the better performance you want or need there will be some noise)

The most common size of radiator is a 120mm fan radiator. They come in single, dual, triple and quadrupple fan configurations. Manufactures to look for are XSPC, Swiftech, EK and hardware labs. most other radiators in the market tend to perform the same but are more expensive.

 

Reservoir: This is a place to store water and most always sits a spot before the pump to feed it. you can use a t-line set-up. (T-line is where the res is the tubing) but its easier to use a res. You can get res's that fit inside the case, outside, on a fan, or in the Front 5 1/4 bays so options are not limited. If you are stressed for space then it can also be a good idea to get a pump that have the res built onto it or a Bay res/pump. and there are also fill ports they make if your res is hidden so you can fill from the top of your case.

 

Water pump: this pumps the water through the loop. This is an extreamly important item. I would rather have a fan fail in the radiator then this failing. Use only High quality pumps. Such as the Laing DDC or Swiftech MCP655. That pump in mind has many different attachements that can be used, res's that can be fit too it, and is also regularly modded by companies to better it. Its a solid choise for almost any loop.

 

Tubing, Barbs and clamps: the normal tubing for modern loops is 1/2 ID by 3/4 ID duralene or tygon tubing. comes in many different colors and quality. then remember, always use clamps of some short. A herby clip or a screw clamp will do. Make sure you use them or you will lose a component or two to a leak. Now with that you need some barbs. To keep it simple try not to use 45 - 90' fittings just yet. My recommendation would be bitspower barbs as there quality is excellent for the price (3 or so a barb).

 

Biocide and water. Get a bottle of PT nuke and put 2-4 drops in the loop before testing to make sure no algee builds up in the system. This will protect your loop from break down also. Use distilled water. Between Medical Grade and regular distilled it really does not matter. Water is conductive when it spills on a dirty motherboard either way so don't let it leak. And pluss once the pump runs for a curtain period of time you get small metal shavings in there anyhow that you cannot see to the naked eye. There are many people out there that use a silver kill coil and had success keeping a small ecosystem out of there loop. I for one have not for whatever reason.. may it be at your discretion between the two options.

 

Coloring and coolant: Its not necessary but looks nice. Best stuff that you have to use the least of is the feser view. you can use actual coolant that feser or some other companies make but it does not perform as well as distilled water and PT nuke so I do not recommend it. Just remember, if you use coloring or coolant you will eventually coat your loop in the pigments it uses and it will slowly drop performance over time slightly.

 

Thats all for now. Have a look around and let us know what case you have and we can get you set-up.....

 

I need to write that guide I was going to a long time ago.

[Boinker]

Crap. Good places to look for WC stuff is www.Sidewindercomputers.com www.Petrastechshop.com or www.frozencpu.com

They are in order from my personal Favorite to most disliked.

[Xyz]

Its about 25-50% more effective then the leading air cooling. The only Drawbacks are cost, assembly and test time, upkeep and hazard. The upkeep and hazard are the Regular 6 month flush and possible tubing replace. the hazard is if you have a failure or leak. Just like a HSF's fan failing our pumps can fail but rarely occur with proper maintenince. Now remember. Water cooling works nearly the same air cooling. the only real difference iis instead of heatpipes moving the heat away we have water doing that. Most all configurations for a WC loop will have a Block, Radiator, fans, pump, tubing, clamps, and reservoir. see parts listing below. If tested properly, configured correctly, and assembled with care a watercooling loop can become a long lasting, quiet and very effective cooling system. you can also use waterblock for the video cards. There is also one other kind of WC and that is a self contained unit such as a coolit Domino or a Corsair H50. They do not perform as well but they do not cost near as much. Just remember as always. I recommend testing a WC loop for 4 days straight with White paper towels under it to verify that there are no leaks. This way there is no nervousness when placing something expensive under a live WC loop. for now I would start out with a processor only loop. They will be as follows below.

 

Also, What kind of case do you have. This will drastically effect what kind of loop you can use.

 

 

Parts are as follows.

 

Processor, video card, or just about any other component you can think of water block: as it states it is the cooling effort attached to said component that produces alot of heat. They come with all different flavors and colors for all kinds of processor sockets: swiftech, XSPC and EK are very good block for there price point. Im not going to mess with Video card blocks, chipset or hard drive blocks for now.

 

Radiator and radiator fans: after the Block moves the processorsheat to the radiator where it is cycled into air. (this is where people confuse performance with silent operation. the better performance you want or need there will be some noise)

The most common size of radiator is a 120mm fan radiator. They come in single, dual, triple and quadrupple fan configurations. Manufactures to look for are XSPC, Swiftech, EK and hardware labs. most other radiators in the market tend to perform the same but are more expensive.

 

Reservoir: This is a place to store water and most always sits a spot before the pump to feed it. you can use a t-line set-up. (T-line is where the res is the tubing) but its easier to use a res. You can get res's that fit inside the case, outside, on a fan, or in the Front 5 1/4 bays so options are not limited. If you are stressed for space then it can also be a good idea to get a pump that have the res built onto it or a Bay res/pump. and there are also fill ports they make if your res is hidden so you can fill from the top of your case.

 

Water pump: this pumps the water through the loop. This is an extreamly important item. I would rather have a fan fail in the radiator then this failing. Use only High quality pumps. Such as the Laing DDC or Swiftech MCP655. That pump in mind has many different attachements that can be used, res's that can be fit too it, and is also regularly modded by companies to better it. Its a solid choise for almost any loop.

 

Tubing, Barbs and clamps: the normal tubing for modern loops is 1/2 ID by 3/4 ID duralene or tygon tubing. comes in many different colors and quality. then remember, always use clamps of some short. A herby clip or a screw clamp will do. Make sure you use them or you will lose a component or two to a leak. Now with that you need some barbs. To keep it simple try not to use 45 - 90' fittings just yet. My recommendation would be bitspower barbs as there quality is excellent for the price (3 or so a barb).

 

Biocide and water. Get a bottle of PT nuke and put 2-4 drops in the loop before testing to make sure no algee builds up in the system. This will protect your loop from break down also. Use distilled water. Between Medical Grade and regular distilled it really does not matter. Water is conductive when it spills on a dirty motherboard either way so don't let it leak. And pluss once the pump runs for a curtain period of time you get small metal shavings in there anyhow that you cannot see to the naked eye. There are many people out there that use a silver kill coil and had success keeping a small ecosystem out of there loop. I for one have not for whatever reason.. may it be at your discretion between the two options.

 

Coloring and coolant: Its not necessary but looks nice. Best stuff that you have to use the least of is the feser view. you can use actual coolant that feser or some other companies make but it does not perform as well as distilled water and PT nuke so I do not recommend it. Just remember, if you use coloring or coolant you will eventually coat your loop in the pigments it uses and it will slowly drop performance over time slightly.

 

Thats all for now. Have a look around and let us know what case you have and we can get you set-up.....

 

I need to write that guide I was going to a long time ago.

 

 

I'm thinking of upgrading my PC.. Cabinet will be Thermaltake GT 10, Mobo'll be Gigabyte Ga-990 fxa-ud7, I wont change the processor as i'm waiting for bulldozer & GFX card is AMD 5670.. Which I'll be upgrading soon..