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Everything posted by ir_cow

  1. When upgrading from the 2nd gen intel its going to be a major difference in encoding time for video. Heck the 11th gen i3 is 4core 8 thread with a higher clock. Just switching to that would be faster. Depends on what you are doing but I don't think you can expect a 4K 10min encode to finish under 2 hours with your current CPU. Of course you can use the GPU now to offload the encoding in Adobe Premiere CC21 and Divinci Resolve 16/17. With either a dedicated video card or onboard intel graphics (with lighting shrink for Intel). But you will still run into issues where CPU encoding is necessary. If your not into overclocking or buying new stuff you could go get a Threadripper 1950x with a motherboard for $300-400 on ebay. Maybe grab a X299 Intel motherboard and buy a 18 core xeon. All cheap options that aren't good for gaming but a major step up for video work.
  2. 2400 CL11 is pretty good for DDR3 memory. I call that a win. Just make sure to validate your overclock with Memtest86.
  3. Its generally a 30-50% markup for mid-range. Ultra high end is 200%+. Once in a while I would compare what it could cost for a pre-built equivalent. What cost ms $1500 in parts is usually $2500-3500 for the pre-built. However now that GPU market is extremely outrageous, it actually might be cheaper to buy a pre-built, though I've seen complaints that Dell/Alienware will take your money for 2 months and than cancel the order for a RTX 3080 system or offer you a lower card that is in stock. As far as upgradability goes, thats a hard one. I would just watch those undercover buys on YouTube for Linus. See which one screws you the least.
  4. Thanks for the headups. Yeah its pretty bad. People selling boxes, images of boxes. Video cards with a RTX 3080 sticker on it, etc. If you do happen to be scammed. Paypal will always side with you the buyer unless the seller has 1,000 rating or higher. I found this out as a legitimate seller. People take advantage of the system. As long as you do not leave feedback, the money is locked to paypal for 30-days. This will also help you get your money back.
  5. Under $50. Probably old GTX 480s, 580s on ebay. Don't expect to play new games with them though.
  6. Can't say for sure but everything I have RMA'ed to Corsair came back new sealed in box.
  7. Ghost Recon Break Point doesn't work. I emailed NVIDIA about it during the RTX 3060 launch. I don't think it has been fixed yet. Only work around I have found is to disable Re-Size Bar.
  8. By now people have heard that NIVIDA has added support for Re-Size bar in all Ampere cards. You will need to download a vBIOS update from your cards vendor. If you have a Founders Edition, you can find the information in the link below. It it is well worth enabling this if your motherboard supports it. Easy 10-20 FPS increase in games like Borderlands 3 and AC: Valhalla to name a few. https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/geforce/news/geforce-rtx-30-series-resizable-bar-support/
  9. Hey if it works for you, thats all that matters really. I'm not brand loyal, but it takes a lot to win me back for more than a single product launch. The one thing for me is if the RMA sucks. They will never get my personal business again. Luckily Gugbayte is not on my shitlist.
  10. Or just not buy Gigbayte . After owning plenty of gigabyte boards with the last one being the Z490 Vision G, I think Gigabyte needs to take a step back and rethink how they design stuff. Maybe the Z590 is better, but the Z490 I had barely kept up at stock and failed any sort of overclocking with memory or CPU.
  11. This sounds like Intel just renamed Turbo to better fit into todays naming scheme. Trade the word Turbo for Boost. Same thing in the end. But really It doesn't effect any overclockers because we just leave it at max clocks anyways.
  12. Corsair has a good RMA. I once submitted a ticket without* a receipt. Got it replaced anyways. After receiving the new unit, I got another email saying don't forget the receipt next time.
  13. Sounds extremely unlikely. I have NEVER needed the second EPS to power the board. I have 3 computers right now running without the 4pin pluggged. The only one I use a second EPS for is MSI Z490 Unify because the 10900K usage 333 watts under maximum load. It does work with a single 8pin, I just don't like the idea of so many amps on a single cable. . Its on the same power plane and I believe the 4pin EPS has no sense pin so the MB can't even see if its plugged in. Rokkahoik, unplug that 4pin and see if it boots. I bet it will.
  14. Well I can tell you for certain that you don't need that second EPS cable (4pin) with that 10700K. It is on the same power plane as EPS-8Pin. The only reason would be if you need over 350 watts for the CPU. Even though the connector / cable could handle this, it would get warm after a bit pulling that much amps, so my rule of thumb is 250watts per 8-Pin EPS to avoid any melty wires. What I'm stuck on for this diagnosis is that once you get it to power up, it stays going. Only when the power is full cut will it do this non-booting. So I guess my follow up question would be does the motherboard turn on briefly from a cold start and power off, or noting at all until you press the power button a few times?
  15. This is a 10yr old thread and what does Obama have to do with netflix???
  16. The internet tells me its a 80mm fan. But you have the computer in hand. Just measure it lol.
  17. Having used many many different pastes over the years I like kryonaut the best. Lowest temps I've seen for sure. MX4 is fine as well. I'm not sure about either of them lasting longer just from normal use. Tons of different types. Some stay wet and messy forever, others will harden up after being heated.
  18. looking at some pictures, the case as a single 80mm fan for exhaust. You will want to replace that as well. I found this thread of someone replacing the stock cooler. No matter the aftermarket cool you pick, you will have to remove the motherboard to install it. https://www.dell.com/community/XPS-Desktops/XPS-8940-Better-cooler/td-p/7690322/page/5 https://www.dell.com/community/XPS-Desktops/XPS-8940-Better-cooler/m-p/7694684
  19. Maybe in a few years you'll find one
  20. Not sure if your trolling but if it is a pre-built it should have a manual, give it a read. Otherwise you need to provide more information. Not really sure what your asking help with.
  21. Ahh. You are your own business. I get it now.
  22. What is your fps without overclocking after hours of gaming? It doesnt make sense why the frame rate would drop to a 3rd of what is it. It seems like a program / driver issue to me with a memory leak. The only other thing I can think of is the GPU is overheating and downclock to keep from damaging itself. But hours into into gaming?? Your cpu might be the one overheating and downclocking. Just some thoughts.
  23. Hmm good point @sticknstone . I,guess I assumed these people already understood CPU overclocking and just trying to get memory stable. But yeah this a 2-part and should be done separately. CPU overclocking and checking for stability is necessary. I use programs like Aida64 and Prime95. Aida64 is less intense, thus is more like encoding temps. Prime95 blasts the cpu to the end of the earth. Thats when a 360mm aio might be nessary. I was getting 33 watts per core. That adds up quick. For memory, it is much easier to leave the cpu at stock unless you vetted the CPU overclock. Put memtest86 on a flash drive and boot to it instead of Windows. Every time you change frequencies or voltages, boot to the flash drive and vaildate your memory settings. If that passes in Windows use aida64 memory stress test. If it doesn't crash the computer you are all set. I do this for every memory review. It takes a few days on and off, but it is the best way to make sure you have soild memory.
  24. Congrats on the free computer!
  25. Before playing around with the CPU, try just the memory. Personally I leave LLC either at the lowest setting or on Auto. I've killed CPUs with high LLC. I hate the function. It should be locked with a warning screen. In any case to get 4400 stable. You will have to raise the memory controler voltage. Auto doesnt always do the job. Start at 4000. Run memtest86 and go up until either you get errors or fails post. Errors in test 1-5 is memory timings / voltage. Test 6-7 fail / system lockup or restart is usually low voltage cpu controller related. Either the voltage needs to go up slightly, or its already been high for a while and needs to cool off. I would avoid going above 1.25v. That should be enough for ddr4 4600. If, you dont want to type in the timings manually, a simple trick is to enable XMP but than change the dram frequency what you want before exiting the BIOS. Also that memory has a second XMP of 4133 I believe. If all else fails, give that a go. I have to tell you guys, from all these memory reviews I've done with lots of hours on benchmarking. 4000 CL15 is better than 4400 CL19. Plus its eaiser on the CPU memory controller. Starting point for 4000-4400 CPU SA: 1.2 CPU IO: 1.15v DRAM: 1.45v
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