Water cooling - Some questions

[Gr4vitas]

So if anyone has seen my build thread (doesn't look like anyone has ) but anyway I just finished (with the exception of some of the bells and whistles) my build.

 

Specs:

 

i5 2500k

HD 6970

Asus Sabertooth P67

Haf X

Mushkin 1600mhz DDR3

OCZ 1000w psu

 

 

Anyway I've been wanting to water cool for years now, just never really had the opportunity (my old rig was just too dated to bother with water cooling by the time I wanted to do it)

so I've decided im going to water cool this new build. Right now the cpu is under stock cooling and will be for a few weeks at least (need to save for the water cooling).

 

So to start I'm just going to cool the CPU, just to get my feet wet ( ) and move up later down the road to gpu cooling etc. So I'm starting with the basics:

 

CPU block

Tubing

Pump

Radiator

Reservoir (and a T fill port?)

some clamps and barbs

 

So my biggest question of the many is:

-Which radiator and why?

-Which waterblock and why?

-Which pump and why?

 

Secondary to those questions is:

-Why not use dyed water?

-Should I just use distilled with some PT nuke?

-Which tubing is the best / does it really matter?

-Clamps or compression fittings?

 

So if there are any water cooling veterans out there that can help me out, please do. I've never water cooled before and could use and tips / advice / help I can get.

 

Thanks in advance!

 

Edit: For reference to my build:

http://forums.overclockersclub.com/index.php?showtopic=183020

Edited March 17, 2011 by Gr4vitas

[Gr4vitas]

Thoughts on this "kit", although its really just a bundle sale of stuff you'd normally get individually.

 

http://www.petrastechshop.com/swh2ulcpulic.html

[Boinker]

That a pretty small case. But no matter, It has plenty of 5 1/4 bays so you could do something like this. All you would need is 12 inches of space between the Very bottom of your case and the top where you want to put the hard drives and the CD driver. depending on wht you have in there already you may loose a few items as this will take up some space.

 

Swiftech Hydro edge 220 And UN design rad brackets.

 

Now if that will not work for your case then there is always the option of putting the same set-up in the back of the case. You would use the radbox that mounts it to the back of the case from a 120mm fan mount and run the lines straight into the case from either the Holes they have already put in or The pci pass through bracket that comes with the kit.

 

That would be the best way to get your feet wet. I recommend that you do not use dyes of colorings due to the nature of them causing decrase in performance and the coating of metal parts inside. I recommend using distilled water from wallyworld, 3-4 drops of PT nuke and If you must color it then I recommend using Petrastech dyes. Im my experience thy work the best and coat the least.

 

As far as building. Always use clamps, always leak test the system before you send power to the Computer itself. Removed all the components from the comp before leak testing and test it for at least 24hours. And if anything come pre-assembled... Quality control check it yourself.

[smduff]

Personally I would go for the kit you posted http://www.petrastec...h2ulcpulic.html it has better up grade options, if you ever want to go with a bigger rad you can simply because the pump isn't built in to the rad. When you choose a pump/rad combo it also some what limits where and how you can position the rad in your chassis. As for tubing I would go with something at least 1/2" ID, the OD is up to you although the 5/8" is easier to route compared to 3/4". The kit you choose has a good CPU block not a huge fan of the swiftech rads I prefer something beefier myself, EK and Fesser make great rads. The MCP 655 is a great pump and can be modified with alternate pump tops if you choose.

 

I just switched to compression fittings but barbs work just fine that is really just an aesthectic preferance IMO. Definatly distilled water and PT nuke over any died garbage it won't clog up the works over time.

[Gr4vitas]

I have room and capability to mount a duel 120mm in the top of my case.

 

Is it necessary to 'flush' the loop before putting in your distilled water and pt nuke? I've seen people use viniger and water and send it through there radiator to get rid of some 'stuff' in it.

[Gr4vitas]

Personally I would go for the kit you posted http://www.petrastec...h2ulcpulic.html it has better up grade options, if you ever want to go with a bigger rad you can simply because the pump isn't built in to the rad. When you choose a pump/rad combo it also some what limits where and how you can position the rad in your chassis. As for tubing I would go with something at least 1/2" ID, the OD is up to you although the 5/8" is easier to route compared to 3/4". The kit you choose has a good CPU block not a huge fan of the swiftech rads I prefer something beefier myself, EK and Fesser make great rads. The MCP 655 is a great pump and can be modified with alternate pump tops if you choose.

 

I just switched to compression fittings but barbs work just fine that is really just an aesthectic preferance IMO. Definatly distilled water and PT nuke over any died garbage it won't clog up the works over time.

 

Link doesn't work

 

and suggestions on the rads noted.

[Boinker]

I would use just distilled water to flush the loop. there likely will not be contamination so flush it with a gallon or two of distilled water then use more distilled and PT nuke to fill it.

 

Let me futher justify why I recommended the Kit from swiftech that has the Drive series system that has the pump and rad built on.

 

Reasoning for that is the loop will likely be cramped very badly in that case. I took a look at it and it would be best IMHO to use the method I posted because it would be WAY easier then mounting a pump, res, and tubing all in different locations inside the case.

 

Also, As you said if you can mount the Rad inside the case on top then I would definatly use this kit. Its cost effectiveness is great and XSPC is a very good company for radiators and reserviours. and this Kit has a pump that is built into the res so it will make installing the loop and maintaining it very easy. All you would add to this kit would be some PT nuke and water and your set to go.

 

XSPC kit w/ dual 120 rad.

[Gr4vitas]

That a pretty small case. But no matter, It has plenty of 5 1/4 bays so you could do something like this. All you would need is 12 inches of space between the Very bottom of your case and the top where you want to put the hard drives and the CD driver. depending on wht you have in there already you may loose a few items as this will take up some space.

 

Swiftech Hydro edge 220 And UN design rad brackets.

 

Now if that will not work for your case then there is always the option of putting the same set-up in the back of the case. You would use the radbox that mounts it to the back of the case from a 120mm fan mount and run the lines straight into the case from either the Holes they have already put in or The pci pass through bracket that comes with the kit.

 

That would be the best way to get your feet wet. I recommend that you do not use dyes of colorings due to the nature of them causing decrase in performance and the coating of metal parts inside. I recommend using distilled water from wallyworld, 3-4 drops of PT nuke and If you must color it then I recommend using Petrastech dyes. Im my experience thy work the best and coat the least.

 

As far as building. Always use clamps, always leak test the system before you send power to the Computer itself. Removed all the components from the comp before leak testing and test it for at least 24hours. And if anything come pre-assembled... Quality control check it yourself.

 

Isn't that a little pricey for what your getting? I get where your coming from and I'd definitely say its a good solution especially to a beginner looking to just get into it, but for that price I could go all out and build my own with a bay res etc etc.

[BluePanda]

Dyes are expensive, but then again water cooling can be too. They tend to be messy especially if you ever need to rearrange any tubing and if by chance you do get a leak, lets just say the next person to own your room will not be very happy with the pretty colors on the floor.

 

I'm not completely against using dyes but I would say that some of the colored tubing available is very awesome. I have not looked at your build (yet, going to now) but if you have any lighting in your case -- clear tube works great, I used it in my very BLUE set up.

[Gr4vitas]

I would use just distilled water to flush the loop. there likely will not be contamination so flush it with a gallon or two of distilled water then use more distilled and PT nuke to fill it.

 

Let me futher justify why I recommended the Kit from swiftech that has the Drive series system that has the pump and rad built on.

 

Reasoning for that is the loop will likely be cramped very badly in that case. I took a look at it and it would be best IMHO to use the method I posted because it would be WAY easier then mounting a pump, res, and tubing all in different locations inside the case.

 

Also, As you said if you can mount the Rad inside the case on top then I would definatly use this kit. Its cost effectiveness is great and XSPC is a very good company for radiators and reserviours. and this Kit has a pump that is built into the res so it will make installing the loop and maintaining it very easy. All you would add to this kit would be some PT nuke and water and your set to go.

 

XSPC kit w/ dual 120 rad.

 

I like the idea on that kit, its definitely more moderately priced, and its a 'simple setup' kit where it'd be easier to get started water cooling and can then upgrade to bigger better stuff later.

 

I'm not sure though why you think my case will be cramped. The radiator will literally take up no room in the case as it would be mounted in a bay on the top of the case, a bay reservoir wouldn't take up any extra space ether, and I only run 1 optical drive. The only thing that would consume some space would be tubing obviously and the pump. On top of that, the Haf X is a pretty large case I'm not sure why you think its so little / small working space inside.

 

Edit: Also while I'm just getting started water cooling, I don't want to 'half %$@!' it, thats not to say a small kit solution like the one you just linked isn't a half @ss solution but, the waterblock in that kit..well I've not heard of it, I don't know of its capabilities so I can't say its bad or anything, but I still want to go with as high quality compenents as I can, thusly I was wanting to go with something like the swiftech apogee XT rev2. Does the waterblock in that kit compare well to a block like the Apogee XT?

Edited March 17, 2011 by Gr4vitas

[Gr4vitas]

Dyes are expensive, but then again water cooling can be too. They tend to be messy especially if you ever need to rearrange any tubing and if by chance you do get a leak, lets just say the next person to own your room will not be very happy with the pretty colors on the floor.

 

I'm not completely against using dyes but I would say that some of the colored tubing available is very awesome. I have not looked at your build (yet, going to now) but if you have any lighting in your case -- clear tube works great, I used it in my very BLUE set up.

 

Yea I don't think I'll get any dyes, not really my thing anyway, however I think some UV tubing might fit the bill, it'll accent my (future) color scheme, at the moment I don't really have any additives in my build, (thats UV cathoes / lighting in general) but I've got stuff in the mail on its way to complete that aspect of the build. It's going to be a subtle red theme, just all black with red UV accents, and subtle lighting. I want it to be mostly very dark in the case with the red UV popping out of the dark.

[Gr4vitas]

Also, in the kit you linked ( http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/ra750rswakit.html ) the pump only has ~200 gallons per hour max flow rate, where the upper tier quality pumps like the MP 655 push ~315 gallons per hour, will this sort of thing make a large difference in overall performance? Would I see any kind of temp difference in a loop running 200 gallons an hour versus 315 gallons an hour?