Car Audio

[GodlyManDude540]

So I have a 2002 Hyundai Accent Gs and I just put a stereo system in it

Heres what I have

 

4x Rockford Fosgate 5.25"

2x Volfenhag 6" x 9"

2x Rockford Fosgate 8" Subs

Volfenhag 2600watt Amp

Now My problem is that at night when I have everyting on my lights flicker is there any way to fix this? other than turning it off or way down?

Edited March 10, 2010 by GodlyManDude540

[cirro]

your system is drawing too much power, you are shortening the life of your alternator in the long run

 

you could either

 

a) install a secondary battery in the back

 

b) get a higher power alternator, or have your alternator modified to increase its output

 

c) get a capacitor for your system

 

[sdy284]

get a higher amperage alternator, you could try a capacitor, but i'd just go for the root of the problem to begin with

[unknownuser200]

Shouldn't need a high output amp.... i doubt that amps putting anywhere near that power ever... i would guess 500wrms at most... with that said you could add a second battery or just a larger one up front.... you can get a bigger alt but i think its a tad bit unnecessary... caps are crap

[GodlyManDude540]

The amp is 2600wtt max and 1150watt rms

my subs are 200watt rms each and 400watt max

and my 6x9s are 300watt rms each and 600watt max

 

The amp is perfect for the setup in my opinion

 

So would I need a bigger battery and a better alternator?

Edited March 10, 2010 by GodlyManDude540

[cirro]

I think what he means is that even though it saw 2600 & 1150 that it most likely grossly overated.

 

alot of companies do it, and do it nasty. i had a fosgate 2600w, that had a certificate in the box with its real RMS on a certificat 905

 

i'd go get a duralast gold alternator (gold stripe, lifetime warrarnty if you do blow it) & a 1 farad cap on the back.

 

 

how bad do they dim?

[GodlyManDude540]

They dont dim super bad but its like my own little rave

[Rokkaholik]

How many channels is that amp? I'm guessing it's a 2 channel? The 2600w they advertise is more than likely around 300-400w per channel in reality.

 

The Rockfords you have are decent, but I'd ditch those Volfenhag products honestly.

 

I know that Volfenhag overestimates the crap out of what their products can do whether it's speakers or amps. Volfenhag does the same thing that Jensen, Audiobahn, Pyramid and a few others do. They attract people with big wattage numbers, and most don't go and research them like they should. Those companies typically ADD up the peak wattage at 2 ohms bridged 1 channel, peak wattage at 2 ohms in 2 channel, peak wattage at 4 ohms in 2 channel and come up with some monster number for wattage.

 

I've seen some of those 6"x9" Volfenhag advertise 800 watts peak, but in reality, you'd maybe hit that ONCE, and then have a nice pair of door stoppers. In the consumer end of car electronics, you're not going to find huge REAL wattage numbers until you get up into the $800 and more range on amps and speakers.

 

The typical wattage peak on the consumer end of 6"x9" speakers in reality is around 250-300 watts, while the RMS will vary from 70-110w. The RMS is the wattage to look for, not peak. RMS is what they can handle at a constant rate, where as peak is for a short time before they start to fart.

 

Personally, I'd get a decent 4 channel amp and power those 4 Rockfords, but running them off the deck may be fine. I'd look into a 2 channel amp for a new set of 6x9's. A KICKER KX250.2 250W would work perfectly. Then a decent 400w 2 channel amp for the subs. A Kicker 450.2 would be perfect. Hopefully your deck has RCA's for a Sub Channel, because that would make it easy to wire. Both of the Kickers or a comparible amp can be found new, used or refurbished on evilbay for great prices. I bought both my Kicker amps on ebay for a little over HALF of what Circuit City and Best Buy were trying to rob me for.

 

For 6x9's, I've blown up more sets of Infinities than I care to count. That covers both the RS and Kappa series. On top of that, they have crap for low end. The Polk Audio's fared much better and sounded better, but gave out after a year. The best luck and best sounding 6x9's I've ever had, and still do have, are the JBL GTO923's and the GTO935's. They're making newer ones now, but I've never needed to buy them since mine still sound great.

 

Check out the GTO Series here

 

http://www.jbl.com/EN-US/Products/Pages/Pr...st.aspx?SID=MEL

 

Big wattage numbers and a cheap price don't mix well and there should be red flags when you see that. Please don't take any of this the wrong way because i'm not trying to rip on ya at all... Just trying to help.

 

 

 

 

 

In my 2005 Trailblazer, I'm running Eclipse 6.5" SC Series Components in my front doors and then Eclipse 6.5 SE Series 3-ways in the back doors and have them powered with a Kicker KX350.4 amp. The speakers only handle 100w RMS in the Front and 75? in the back, so the 350w 4 Channel was perfect for them.

 

Then I have a pair of MTX Terminator full range truck boxes from WAAAYYYY back, that I yanked the crappy MTX 10" subs out of and replaced them with a pair of JBL's and they sound fantastic. They're powered by a Kicker KX450.2 amp which is a 450w 2 channel.

 

Both amps require a signal (blue wire or power antenna wire usually) from the radio to turn on. I don't have a power antenna so I wired the SUB amp with a toggle switch so I can turn the subs off and on if needed. I also got a bigger alternator as well as a capacitor and my headlights don't dim at all when the bass hits.

 

 

 

 

Good Luck!

[potatochobit]

I hope you are not using the stock hyundai accent battery

 

dont mess with the alternator yet

get a nice battery and a capacitor

[Rokkaholik]

They dont dim super bad but its like my own little rave

 

 

Don't dim too bad is still bad. Over time, that battery will crap out on you. My little brother found that out. He thought it was cool when his headlights dimmed when the bass hit. After going through 2 batteries in a year and a half in his Escort GT, he finally wised up and got a capacitor and bigger alternator because it was cheaper than a towing bill or a jump start at an inconvienient time.

[333]

Definitely need a higher output alt and a cap. Had the same issues when I installed my amp and 2 12" subs. Did that and no more dimming.

[wormy]

I agree a cap and a good battery is where I would start then an alternator later down the line if needed