Jump to content

buying H2O cooling... need input


Crawlerz246

Recommended Posts

ok I've built a PC myself (which isn't an easy task being a cripple cuz everything take x10 longer) after a long run with DELL PC's which as one guy put "I wouldn't pee on if it was burning". my sentiments exactly.

 

as you can see in my sig it's 932 HAF, i7 920 @ 4.0GHz, HT off (temps already borderline 70 on V8 cooling), 6GB corsair 1600 RAM, 2x60mm fans for RAM sticks, ASUS P6X58D mobo, the rest carryover from DELL (aftermarket PSU 910W P&C silencer, ATi 4890 video, 2 HDDs (one caviar black 640GB), 2 opticals, flash card reader, misc gaming aparati, NZXT internal USB expansion).

 

now I would like to purchase WC to turn on HT (I mean I payed for it right?) and maybe clock to 4.4 if I can? I've undervolted like crazy as it is right now 1.2vcore - seems stable after 2 hours of prime95 (havent had time to run it for 12 hours yet and I dont wanna leave it on at night with air cooling).

 

another member here has recommended the swiftech h20-220 system. seems like the way to go as they come recommended. now I haven't installed WC before so I need a lot of help. if the community could help, would be great.

 

as I understand it http://www.swiftnets.com/products/H20-220-...ULTIMA-PLUS.asp this guy comes with a GPU water block and the ultima "minus" doesn't? I think I'd like to purchase one with a GPU cooler, although IMO I don't need the chipset cooling as I dont intend to go for record OC. should I install it anyway?

 

how does the GPU block sit on the video? could the community plz explain that.

 

I would like to fit the rad inside THE CASE AS SHOW ON

but that guy has a koolance GPU full cover block - is that overkill as a GPU block included in this PLUS pack or is the other one http://www.swiftnets.com/products/H20-220-APEX-ultima.asp better and just purchase a GPU block separately?

 

TESTING: what's the best way? shorting the PSU with a paper clip and running the cooling? running it outside the case (I don't think I have the space lol)

 

what else should I keep in mind?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Heya! Starter kits are awesome for sure. Swiftech is a good company, as are danger den, EK, koolance, and bitspower (IMO). I started with a danger den kit very similar to the swiftech you are looking at (sans GPU block). I would honestly just skip the GPU block and save up for a full coverage block meant for your card. Performance-PCS.com, Petrastechshop.com, and FrozenCPU.com are all good sites to look for gear at.

 

You can mount the radiator (any radiator meant for 120mm fans up to 360mm long) inside the HAF with ease. Remove the giant top fan, screw rad fans onto rad, screw fans into case. The HAF already has hole drilled for a radiator up there (the last two for a 360mm radiator involve removing the front top piece, it's easy).

 

The generic universal whatever you call it GPU block seen in the swiftech kit you are looking at mounts right over the processor part of the gpu. You will still need passive heatsinks for the GPU memory and anything else on the GPU that needs cooled. That's why I would just hold out for a full coverage block.

A good example would be http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/ind...oducts_id=25576 . Full coverage blocks aren't cheap, but I believe they work better than generic block and passive heatsinks.

 

I wouldn't worry about cooling the motherboard chipsets or mosfets if your chipset temps are doing ok. I didn't start watercooling my 780i (which runs hot to being with) until I started trying to break the 4.8GhZ mark (when my chipset temps were regularly up near 70C). I would try to keep your CPU under 65C, as the intel thermal design temp is 67.5C.

 

Anything else I can help with, let me know! I've rebuilt my HAF932 cooling setup three times now, and a fourth is on the way (when I ahve the $$$). Soon to have better tubing and inline coolant temp monitoring. yay.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just put a system in the wifes Haf922 and will have to pull it apart tomorrow to show some pics but it does well and well its much quieter than the setup I had in the Stacker 830 Smooth Creations case. Temps are a bit warmer but I can live with the lower noise factor as she can as well.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would honestly just skip the GPU block and save up for a full coverage block meant for your card.

 

first of all TY all for replying!

 

yes - just like I figured - buying the swiftech w/only the CPU block and buying a full cover block for video is the way to go.

 

I've taken the case apart a couple of times so I know what's involved (I wanted to paint it but kinda trailed off not finding a good primer for galvanized steel) then I put it back together and cut a bit from the back to be able to reach the heatsink - look in the photobucket in my sig. some pics arent there yet - I've bought a NZXT internal USB hub for the flash card reader to sit on.

 

if I may - a follow up question - about filling and testing -

1) should I fill it with the coolant provided or distilled water?

2) should I test it outside the case first? if so, how to know exact tubing length if I assemble it outside? or should I just short out the PSU and run the thing inside the case disconnected from the CPU and mobo?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

for only CPU cooling i would recommend a 2x120mm rad, mcp 655 pump 1/2 inch, a small res and any cpu block since they are all in 2c range. also cant forget about good thermal paste. some compression fittings wouldn't hurt but barb are with zip ties.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

for only CPU cooling i would recommend a 2x120mm rad, mcp 655 pump 1/2 inch, a small res and any cpu block since they are all in 2c range. also cant forget about good thermal paste. some compression fittings wouldn't hurt but barb are with zip ties.

 

IMHO the way to go is that CPU only set coupled with a full coverage GPU block bought aftermarket. koolance perhaps?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would try to keep your CPU under 65C, as the intel thermal design temp is 67.5C.

 

seems like the i7's run way hotter under load. which is to be expected. seems (I saw somwhere) Intel says their max is 100 and most people I've read reviews of try to keep it under 80. so IMO under 70 is fine (it doesnt crunch or fold 24/7 yet so those are rarely reachable.)

 

about good water blocks - I saw that site - seems awfully expensive for just a GPU full cover block. I mean that's nearly half the kit's price! and why are some 130+$ and some are 40$? whats the diff?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

http://processorfinder.intel.com/Details.aspx?sSpec=SLBCH specifically says the thermal design temperature is 67.9C. That's why I said try to keep it under 65C. With a decent water setup, that should be easy. I rarely beak 55C under load as long as I keep my overclock under 4.5GhZ.

 

The full coverage blocks are super expensive because they cool the entire videocard, not just the processor chip. The 40$ block will only cool the processor chip, and leaves the rest of the video card up to passive heatsink.

This is a partial coverage GPU block. Notice how the memory chips still have small heatsink placed over them. Only the processor chip is liquid cooled.

 

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=htt...%26tbs%3Disch:1

 

A full coverage block will cool everything on the card:

http://www.swiftnets.com/assets/images/pro...-8800GTx300.jpg

 

Watercooling a complete PC is not cheap. I have both my motherboard chipsets and mosfets banks cooled as well as my cpu. I've got about 500$ invested into my system so far. A start kit for ~200$ or so is a great way to get going, but if you want more than that you're going to end up spending a lot. You could start looking for people with used gear or check ebay if you're looking for a good deal.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

http://processorfinder.intel.com/Details.aspx?sSpec=SLBCH specifically says the thermal design temperature is 67.9C. That's why I said try to keep it under 65C. With a decent water setup, that should be easy. I rarely beak 55C under load as long as I keep my overclock under 4.5GhZ.

 

I have a D0 - isnt it supposed to handle temps better then C0? if so this is really interesting because I read on CPU heatsink comparisons that the stock 920 heatsink revs above 70 on 100% load. here http://www.legitreviews.com/article/880/11/

Edited by Crawlerz246

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a D0 - isnt it supposed to handle temps better then C0? if so this is really interesting because I read on CPU heatsink comparisons that the stock 920 heatsink revs above 70 on 100% load. here http://www.legitreviews.com/article/880/11/

 

I don't think the core revision is going to change the thermal design spec but I'm sure you can check on intel's website. The temperatures people get during testing and all will vary greatly depending on ambient temperature and the type of temperature monitoring they are using. All I was trying to say was that intel has specified a safe operating temperature, and that exceeding it probably isn't a great idea. Breaking that limit for a little bit every now and then should be fine, but operating at or near it on a regular basis will shorten then life of your CPU. I don't have a lot of faith in many reviews I read online (at least not as anything more than guidlines) because results vary. Different cases, CPUs, etc will cause different results. YMMV. Just trying to give you and anyone who reads this a heads up as to safe operating temperatures.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't think the core revision is going to change the thermal design spec but I'm sure you can check on intel's website. The temperatures people get during testing and all will vary greatly depending on ambient temperature and the type of temperature monitoring they are using. All I was trying to say was that intel has specified a safe operating temperature, and that exceeding it probably isn't a great idea. Breaking that limit for a little bit every now and then should be fine, but operating at or near it on a regular basis will shorten then life of your CPU. I don't have a lot of faith in many reviews I read online (at least not as anything more than guidlines) because results vary. Different cases, CPUs, etc will cause different results. YMMV. Just trying to give you and anyone who reads this a heads up as to safe operating temperatures.

 

I understand perfectly where you're comming from. that's exactly why I decided to shell out the money for H2O. my thought process http://www.swiftnets.com/products/H20-220-APEX-ultima.asp together with a full coverage water block like http://www.dangerden.com/store/dd-5870-water-block.html but for my video... then comes the fiddling and actual process. we'll see if I can get it out.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in



Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...