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HAF 932 Watercooling Ideas


R1P5AW

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Id say at least 8 feet. That gives you lots of options on placement, and if you screw up, you have extra tubing if needed. It should be way more than you need, but better to have extra than not enough. The one thing I wish I had in my loop was a drain port. It would make things a lot easier.

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Id say at least 8 feet. That gives you lots of options on placement, and if you screw up, you have extra tubing if needed. It should be way more than you need, but better to have extra than not enough. The one thing I wish I had in my loop was a drain port. It would make things a lot easier.

 

 

I kind of wish I would have put one (rather 2, one for each loop) in as well...

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I would say 8-10 feet to start. I've used 10 foot pieces both times and had a little extra left over, but having too much is better than not enough. I wish I had a drain port as well. I'm definately adding one next time I take everything apart.

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I need help selecting a few parts. Please comment and offer advice on my planned setup.

 

 

My current build idea:

 

Pump- Laing D4 (already bought)

http://www.swiftnets.com/PRODUCTS/mcp650.asp

http://www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1370852

 

Cpu block- DD MC-TDX (already bought)

http://www.dangerden.com/store/mc-tdx-for-...cpu-boards.html

 

Rad - Unsure (Black Ice Pro III or GTX 360)

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/ind...roducts_id=4185

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/5326/ex-...or_-_Black.html

 

please make recommendations. I'm leaning towards the Pro III b/c it's cheap and has good reviews from what i've seen

 

Res - would like cylindrical external mounting such as:

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/biwataz400po.html

 

 

Tubing - Tygon 1/2" ID 3/4 OD or 7/16" ID 5/8 OD

 

 

 

I appreciate all comments and advice. Thanks

Edited by R1P5AW

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You can definately skip the reservoir until later (or completely) if you use a t-line and the fillport in the haf. Just make sure to get the system pretty full and keep an eye on the line coming off the fill port for a few days, so you can fill it back up as air is removed from the loop. I run my pump with a power supply jumper (so nothing else gets power) and pour coolant in through the fill port with a funnel (to keep the pump full so it doesn't burn up). Once things look about full, I let the pump run for a few hours to leak check and work out air from the system.

I have the t line in my rig just before the pump intake, which helps keep air out of the pump (by allowing it to escape up the t line before flowing into the pump) as well as keeping a little extra fluid on the pump (to add net positive suction head and keep the pump full incase of a small leak). These aren't serious factors to consider in a computer liquid cooling setup, but it makes more sense (to me, at least) than plugging it in after the pump or somewhere else in the system. You can get a t-line from the hardware store (a poly t line is what I've been using, it was like 2 bucks), or buy fittings and a T junction block. They will perform about the same. Just make sure to keep the t-line at least a little full. Hope all is going well with the setup! Good luck and happy overclocking!

Edited by redj41

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If you have a spare PSU it makes it much easier to fill and purge the air without having to start and stop the whole system. Just hook up the pump to the PSU. Use a paper clip and short across the GREEN wire and any black wire in the 24 pin harness. Plug The PSU into an outlet and turn on the power switch if it has one. PSUs without the power switch will start when plugged in. This will also reveal any leaks. FWIW I highly recommend a reservoir. It makes it much easier to purge out the air and much easier to monitor fluid levels and add fluid.

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