liquid cooling setup

[xXwhygodwhyXx]

This is my liquid cooling setup so far. Its ok to have more than one radiator right? Because im going to be using 2 dual 120mm radiators. I already have a cpu waterblock and might just get 2 260 cards.

 

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/5865/ex-...ir_-_BLACK.html

 

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/4085/ex-...or_-_Black.html

 

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8672/ex-..._-_UV_Blue.html

 

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8607/ex-...0c337s888#blank

 

havent decided on gpu waterblock.

[Verran]

I would skip the FluidXP personally. It can really gum up the inside of your blocks and radiators. Distilled water with some automotive coolant additive will do just fine.

[DLS2008]

I like the setup, especially that res. That looks sick! Anyways, I'm assuming you already have a CPU loop and are just looking to add another rad and the 260s? And like Verran said, just use distilled water and some Petra's PT Nuke or some other biocide.

[Coors]

For the love of your loop DO NOT use FluidXP. It is one of the worst fluids ever made. Distilled + Petra's PTnuke -PHN is all you need. If you really want to waste your money on a pre-mixed fluid go with Feser1.

[xXwhygodwhyXx]

ok thanks for the advise guys. Would non conductive coolant be good in case of any spills?

[DLS2008]

Just test the loop outside of the case for any leaks. Make sure to use good hose clamps and you shouldn't have any issues. Plus, if a leak occurs, even with non-conductive fluid, it will still become conductive. Any dust and soluble particles will mix with the coolant and make it conductive.

[Coors]

Non conductive fluid is a marketing gimic. Distilled water is non conductive too. It's all the additives that make it conductive. Even then, "non conductive" fluids can easily short out your hardware. All it takes is a little bit of dust and that non conductive fluid is conductive. Buying a premixed is basically buying distilled water and paying them to add their stuff to it. Then paying to have that water shipped to you....it's pretty silly really.

 

Watch some videos from Petra...[subliminalmessage]which is where you should also buy your WC stuff at ...[/subliminalmessage]

 

 

 

 

 

Just run the loop outside the case as a test run if you're concerned about leaks. As long as you take your time and do it right there shouldn't be any leaks. I personally don't even leak test anymore...I just hook it all up and let 'er rip

[ccokeman]

All the non conductive fluids become conductie over time as the copper Ions leach into the fluid. I'm actually trying Fuid XP on two rigs right now and am monitoring temperatures to find out if and when I get the dreaded buildup and color loss. I have one that runs distilled with Zerex racing antifreeze mixed in. All three are semingly fine so far. THe first one is 2 weeks in, the second is 2 months in and the third is about 4 months in.

[Coors]

I'm actually trying Fuid XP on two rigs right now and am monitoring temperatures to find out if and when I get the dreaded buildup and color loss.

 

You're a braver man than I lol. Actually thats hardware abuse....reported!!!

[razor]

informative thread, thanks guys :thumbs-up:

 

how long should a new loop be leak tested? 24 hrs, similar to stress testing a new OC?

[Coors]

As long as it takes to make you comfortable. Some people do 30 minutes some do 48 hours. Like I said I don't leak test at all any more lol

[ccokeman]

I run 24 hours with no power on the rig. OF course tissues are used at all the joints to show any leakage I may not catch with my old eyes