Watercooling Vs Aircooling

[toure7]

If i get a Thermalright 120 ultra with 2 fans(scythe Case Fan 120MM Slip Stream 1900RPM ) and a VGA cooler, it will cost me around 110 euros. I don't plan to have SLI or Crossfire(for example a Q9550 and an ATI 4870). The problem is that here in Greece the temps are high(around 40 degrees at summer). Maybe i should think watercooling? Can i build with 150 euros a good and reliable watercooling for the cpu and and gpu?I don't know much about watercooling, but i am afraid to have water inside PC. Air is just air .

 

Also what maintenance i have to do? With air i don't do anything(only i clean the air filters) .But with watercooling? Can the radiator and all parts be reliable for 3 years ?

 

I don't care about the noise. I just want low temps for o/c ,but the most important i want a reliable cooling system that will last 3 and more years

Edited August 17, 2008 by toure7

[r3d c0m3t]

The good thing about watercooling is the solutions used (coolant) are usually non-conductive, so theoretically speaking you could submerge your video card (or anything else) in the coolant, dry it off and continue to use it...although I wouldn't recommend doing that.

 

If you want the least hassle you could pick up Swiftech's H20-220 Compact Extreme, as for maintenance, you'll have to flush the radiator every now and again to cleanse any possible gremlins roaming about, you'll have to dust off the radiator fins to keep them from retaining heat instead of dispersing it, and if you take care of the parts a watercooled rig (or just the watercooling hardware itself) can last in excess of 5 years.

 

On another note, the TR 120 Ultra is one hell of an HSF and as long as you have adequate airflow in your case, your temperatures won't rise much, if at all, but overall going the route of watercooling in your situation seems to be key.

[Crazy_Nate]

If the ambient temperatures are 40C...there's no cooler that can get temperatures below that (it would violate thermodynamics). Short of phase change cooling, of course...but that requires a bit of energy input, and is probably way out of your budget.

[toure7]

If the ambient temperatures are 40C...there's no cooler that can get temperatures below that (it would violate thermodynamics). Short of phase change cooling, of course...but that requires a bit of energy input, and is probably way out of your budget.

 

Hehe i do not have 40C in my room(propably 32-33C if outside is 40C) but 33C is quite hot too. I think i ll go to aerocooling because i am not ready for watercooling. Which are the better fans to match ultra 120? Scythe Case Fan 120MM Slip Stream 1900RPM or Zalman Case Fan 120mm Silent ZM-F3? I don't care about the noise. Only for the performance

[Mr Pompey]

If the ambient temperatures are 40C...there's no cooler that can get temperatures below that (it would violate thermodynamics). Short of phase change cooling, of course...but that requires a bit of energy input, and is probably way out of your budget.

 

I'm not sure that statement is correct.

 

To make this simple imagine this scene, 40c in your bedroom but next to your pillow on the floor you have a cooler with a frozen leg of lamb strapped to it. When switched on the cool air would be blown across your face / body keeping you cool despite the ambient temperatures.

 

Being able to blow cooled is the answer.

 

I think you are refering to blowing 40c local air over the pc insides. As we know heat rises so despite even an ambient temperature of 40c at the floor level it would be cooler. Now thats Thermodynamics for you

[Queenz]

The good thing about watercooling is the solutions used (coolant) are usually non-conductive, so theoretically speaking you could submerge your video card (or anything else) in the coolant, dry it off and continue to use it...although I wouldn't recommend doing that.

 

If you want the least hassle you could pick up Swiftech's H20-220 Compact Extreme, as for maintenance, you'll have to flush the radiator every now and again to cleanse any possible gremlins roaming about, you'll have to dust off the radiator fins to keep them from retaining heat instead of dispersing it, and if you take care of the parts a watercooled rig (or just the watercooling hardware itself) can last in excess of 5 years.

 

On another note, the TR 120 Ultra is one hell of an HSF and as long as you have adequate airflow in your case, your temperatures won't rise much, if at all, but overall going the route of watercooling in your situation seems to be key.

 

 

Watercooling should not form any bacteria, algae, and other stuff at all as long as it's cleaned with distilled water and 10% vinegar before you use it for the first time so that you flush out any dirt and dust from sitting on the shelf, then fill up the watercooling system with distilled water and some type of biocide such as petra's pt nuke. The only thing you really have to take care of is the rad. It tends to form dust in between the fins cause of the fans. Something that a simple can of air can take care of. Just don't expect to go and spend a little bit of money on a watercooling setup, that would probaly perform worse than a high end air setup. A good watercooling setup is going to cost you about a good $200.

 

 

A water cooling setup can last you a very long time as long as you do it right the first time saving you any future hassles. Just stay away from those crappy watercooling kits like thermaltake bigwater, ETC. If you want to really do watercooling I can piece together parts for you

[Crazy_Nate]

I'm not sure that statement is correct.

 

To make this simple imagine this scene, 40c in your bedroom but next to your pillow on the floor you have a cooler with a frozen leg of lamb strapped to it. When switched on the cool air would be blown across your face / body keeping you cool despite the ambient temperatures.

 

Being able to blow cooled is the answer.

 

I think you are refering to blowing 40c local air over the pc insides. As we know heat rises so despite even an ambient temperature of 40c at the floor level it would be cooler. Now thats Thermodynamics for you

 

I am referring to fluid temperature outside of the thermal boundary layer...

 

If you wish to discuss violating of the second law of thermodynamics, you can do it over here: http://forums.overclockersclub.com/index.p...howtopic=157084

[psycho_terror]

As we know heat rises... Now thats Thermodynamics for you

if we're being pedantic here, heat does not rise - hot air rises.

[bg8780]

Hehe i do not have 40C in my room(propably 32-33C if outside is 40C) but 33C is quite hot too. I think i ll go to aerocooling because i am not ready for watercooling. Which are the better fans to match ultra 120? Scythe Case Fan 120MM Slip Stream 1900RPM or Zalman Case Fan 120mm Silent ZM-F3? I don't care about the noise. Only for the performance

 

I use these one of them on the front of the TRUE and another on the back of my case exhausting hot air. Very good setup IMO. CPU idles at 38C and never exceeds 65C full load. Id say this is the best air cooling setup that i know of right now.

[Queenz]

I use these one of them on the front of the TRUE and another on the back of my case exhausting hot air. Very good setup IMO. CPU idles at 38C and never exceeds 65C full load. Id say this is the best air cooling setup that i know of right now.

 

 

Those will be really damn loud at about 45dba. He is better off getting some Sycthe Slipstreams. I have six of the on my rad running at full speed 24/7 and I barely hear them, and the airflow is freaking sweet :thumbs-up: