[Resolved] Q6600 - Hotter than I thought

[Guest r3d c0m3t]

As you can see in my signature, my Q6600 is being cooled by the CoolIT Eliminator, and it's overclocked nonetheless which makes things that much worse. On to the problem...

 

I'm looking for a more powerful cooling method that will bring temperatures down, way down from where the idle/load temperatures are now. This'll be my first custom water-cooling kit, and I look forward to in all aspects.

 

Just for reference purposes...

 

Idle - Lowest I've seen is 40 C.

Load - Above 80C, all the way up to 97C. :eek2:

 

I was a little irate when I first saw these temperatures as you could imagine, and I'd like to solve this problem before certain unfortunate events occur.

[Darkorb]

i would clock back down if my temps were than high.

 

i dont think that eliminator can handle that cpu tbh

[Guest r3d c0m3t]

i would clock back down if my temps were than high.

 

i dont think that eliminator can handle that cpu tbh

 

 

I have.

 

I'm at 3.33GHz now with only 1.293v coursing through it's transistors, and for some reason every utility is misreading not only the frequency, but the FSB and voltages as well. Core Temp is the main culprit, as it reads 469 x 8 which is wrong, so in the off chance there might be a misreading going on here, but I just want to make absolutely sure.

[red930]

You sure the block is seated properly? With my Ultra-120 at 3.2GHz and 1.3v I'm seeing 30C idle for two cores, ~34C for the other two. Under OCCT she'll get up to just under 50C.

 

It's a little on the cool side in here, but I only have one fan attached to it and it only runs around 1500RPM under full load.

 

For the record, I'm using Everest Ultimate Edition for temps (and everything else I guess)

 

Edit: I agree that the Coolit is probably very overmatched.

 

Edit 2: What method did you use to apply thermal paste?

[jaww^]

I read on another forum that the Q6600 is to much for the Cool-it eliminator. The Q6600 gives out 150w and the eliminator can only handle up to 125w I think.

[Guest r3d c0m3t]

You sure the block is seated properly?

 

Edit 2: What method did you use to apply thermal paste?

 

I always apply a modest amount and spread it over the IHS, should I reapply the paste again?

 

Hm. Now that I think about it, it could be the fact that the hoses are a little bent...

 

I read on another forum that the Q6600 is to much for the Cool-it eliminator. The Q6600 gives out 150w and the eliminator can only handle up to 125w I think.

 

I've noticed that as well, but I didn't have enough cash at the time to indulge over another cooling method, for the most part it has handled the Q6600 a lot better than I previously suspected, but the heat is becoming too much of problem for it.

[red930]

I always apply a modest amount and spread it over the IHS, should I reapply the paste again?

 

I checked before applying because the current Intel quad cores have two chips, meaning it you just put the paste in the middle you might not cover both completely.

 

Check out the correct way at Arctic Silver's site. It calls for you to put some on the heatsink itself then spread it around, and put a line on the IHS going across both chips.

[Guest r3d c0m3t]

I've done just that, and guess what? My temperatures dropped from 40~43C idle to 34, 36, 31, 31C for each core, respectively.

 

Thanks for the help on that, now, onto the suggestions for an uber water-cooling rig. :tooth:

[Coors]

Yeah I wouldn't even use my regular Coolit for a quad. The quads are just too much for them. Dtek fuzion ftw...

[ReelFiles]

I find that a drop of TIM in the middle of the IHS makes a big difference with concave IHSs, might wanna lap that badboy, take a pic of the IHS though for resale purposes. Marking this as [Resolved].

[Chump]

Now, onto the suggestions for an uber water-cooling rig. :tooth:

 

Here is what I have for your comparison.

 

D-TEK fusion CPU water-block, Thermochill PA 130.3 Rad & a Laing D5 Vario pump all hooked up with 1/2 tube & 3/4 x 120mm fans.

 

I have a Chieftec LBX case with 3 120mm fan holes cut in the top one of which (centre one) has a 120mm Arctic cooling fan mounted on top/outside the case connected to the Rad in push configuration.

 

I then have 2/3 120mm fans in pull config on top of the Rad so what you end up with is basically 1 x 120 mm fan being used as a spacer to hold the Rad up above the top of the case.

 

My current room ambient is around 20oC & my idle is in the high 20's, full load runs around 60oC @ 3.8GHz with 1.525v to the CPU.

 

It has just gone into winter here in the UK, previously during the summer when the ambient room temps were around 25-28oC I was getting the difference 5-8oC added onto the above temps.

 

Fan CFM & speed also play a big role in temps if you want super cool you are going to need earmuffs LOL. I generally run 2 50 ish CFM Arctic cooling fans + 1 80 ish CFM Panaflow on a fan controller turned down to near silent for everyday use.

 

When I want to bench or run Orthos I just turn up the fan speed on the controller & when I want to get all medieval on its as* & do some benching I just add a couple more Panaflows to the Rad.

 

Hope this helps.

 

CN

[Guest r3d c0m3t]

Here is what I have for your comparison.

 

D-TEK fusion CPU water-block, Thermochill PA 130.3 Rad & a Laing D5 Vario pump all hooked up with 1/2 tube & 3/4 x 120mm fans.

 

I have a Chieftec LBX case with 3 120mm fan holes cut in the top one of which (centre one) has a 120mm Arctic cooling fan mounted on top/outside the case connected to the Rad in push configuration.

 

I then have 2/3 120mm fans in pull config on top of the Rad so what you end up with is basically 1 x 120 mm fan being used as a spacer to hold the Rad up above the top of the case.

 

My current room ambient is around 20oC & my idle is in the high 20's, full load runs around 60oC @ 3.8GHz with 1.525v to the CPU.

 

It has just gone into winter here in the UK, previously during the summer when the ambient room temps were around 25-28oC I was getting the difference 5-8oC added onto the above temps.

 

Fan CFM & speed also play a big role in temps if you want super cool you are going to need earmuffs LOL. I generally run 2 50 ish CFM Arctic cooling fans + 1 80 ish CFM Panaflow on a fan controller turned down to near silent for everyday use.

 

When I want to bench or run Orthos I just turn up the fan speed on the controller & when I want to get all medieval on its as* & do some benching I just add a couple more Panaflows to the Rad.

 

Hope this helps.

 

CN

 

Indeed it does help, thanks.

 

For the CPU block I was thinking more along the lines of a TEC, because that's about the closer I'll ever to vapor phase change until I get a better job, or win the lottery.

 

I know of two TEC blocks at the moment, Swiftech's MCW6500-T, and the cheaper MCW60-T.

 

Which one is better?