Wont boot! help! (quick replies please!)

[Kaxx]

Condensation??

[Spaz-Ed]

Don't think it is possible because in order to get condensation, your temps have to be significantly below ambient, like with a phase change/peltier set-up.

[jcll2002]

yeah ive been running my watercooling for about 3 weeks with no problems. I really dont think thats the problem.

[Spaz-Ed]

Maybe try making sure the motherboard connectors are good, what I mean by that is the PWR & Reset switch. They don't really hold that snug sometimes, and I had a computer that would only flicker on for a short while because of the PWR one being loose. Otherwise, reset the CPU in the socket, I know it is a pain in the @#$, but it is worth a shot.

[jcll2002]

how would resetting it do anything though? i mean, its not like i made it loose or anything lol

[mazda_626]

C) The PSU received a short circuit a few days ago which may have damaged the motherboard, PSU or CPU.

so you installed the water cooling and three weeks later tried to bump the CPU back up to 3ghz and it all went bung.

when and how did you cause a short circuit?

 

EDIT: if i overclock my CPU or ram, i find things happen, like it wont post, i cant get into the bios or i cant stay in the bios (system restarts)

is there anyway you can borrow some ram and/or a CPU, more so the ram.

here a guess, if the ram is loading itself into fualty ram, the settings you see are not true and it happens to be that the bios keeps loading the Vcore info into the bad part of the ram or has caused your bios to become currupt. its a thought anyway.

[jcll2002]

i plugged in one of the rad fans into a connector that goes straight into the psu. Apparently i didnt plug it in all the way or something so when i turned on the computer, i saw a spark, a bang, and then it shut off. i also smelled the burning. I then prayed to god for a few minutes, unplugged that connector and it powered on normally.

 

i caused the short about 5 days ago.

 

btw, im using the same wc kit as you.

[Spaz-Ed]

Just a suggestion because I have seen it happen, and it is possible to tear the cpu out of its socket by taking a heat sink off. I know you didn't do that by any stretch, but it might not be seated correctly. I am just trying to help you out because all of this can be frustrating. It is just a thought because you had to take the old heat sink off, and replace it with the water block.

[jcll2002]

i took off the old heatsink 3 weeks ago, why would it come out after i change the voltage on my cpu lol? thats when everything went bad and i cant change it back...

 

Should i just RMA my PSU or mobo? if so which one? or both

[mazda_626]

is there any tracking in the molex connector? have you tried a different PSU? have you used a volt meter to make sure the PSU is putting out the right voltages?

to go from 1.8Ghz to 3Ghz is a huge jump, especially in power requirements, if anything is alittle twitchy from the short circuit, now would be the time you would find out, know what i mean?

as far as i know, the CPU is powered from the 12v, the ram is powered by the 5v and i think most PSU's have the 12v and 3.3v common, so by shorting out the 12v and 5v, you may have weakened any number of things.

if you or others agree with me, try changing the PSU, then the ram and then possably the opty with another 939 CPU, just borrow these items from friends if you can.

[jcll2002]

i dont have any spare parts laying around, nor a multimeter, nor friends i can borrow anything from.

 

In my sig you can see that i was at 2.7ghz stock vcore on air for months 24/7. I was able to boot with 1.5V at 3ghz on air before...

[Spaz-Ed]

Okay, I was just under the impression that all the problems happened immediately after. Sorry, my bad. Maybe get one of those power supply testers to see if the power supply is up to spec. If that tests good, and so does your ram, then there is a good chance that the board could be faulty. I have a back-up computer which comes in handy for troubleshooting, when hardware is suspect.