wevsspot Posted April 9, 2013 Posted April 9, 2013 I don't think your problem is related to the chassis you are using in anyway. True, but never a bad idea to pull it out and do a bare bones build outside the case. That used to be a standard recommendation back in the day whenever there wasn't any other plausible explanation for the gremlins affecting our boards If it's still boinked after that, then you really don't have any other option than to RMA the board. I'm out of ideas. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
d6bmg Posted April 9, 2013 Posted April 9, 2013 Yeah, when we have the simple option to RMA the board and get a new board, and specially in this case when everything points to only one component - the motherboard, then it would be the first step to do. Most of us are too lazy to inspect all corners, right? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mac173 Posted April 9, 2013 Posted April 9, 2013 I know RMA is the "preferred" solution, but I am sick of paying shipping fee's. I will try the bare bones assembly tomorrow. Everyone will be out of the house, so I can use the dining room table for the job. Also, I learned most of what I know about computers by trying to fix stuff like this, so I want to try to get an answer. Even if it takes longer, if I learn more, it's worth it. LOL, I used to always bare bones the build first, but it was because I couldn't see the pin settings or jumpers inside the case............ Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mac173 Posted April 9, 2013 Posted April 9, 2013 (edited) BTW, this is the complete system I am trying to build. Intel Core i7-3770 Ivy Bridge 3.4GHz (3.9GHz Turbo) LGA 1155 77W Quad-Core Desktop Processor ASRock Z77 Extreme4 LGA 1155 Intel Z77 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard OCZ Vector Series VTR1-25SAT3-128G 2.5" 128GB SATA III MLC HITACHI Deskstar 7K3000 HDS723020BLA642 (0f12115) 2TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive (RMA shipped back to me last week, expect delivery this week) CORSAIR Vengeance 16GB (4 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory LG Black 10X BD-ROM 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-ROM SATA Internal 12X Blu-ray Combo Drive COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 EVO RR-212E-20PK-R2 Continuous Direct Contact 120mm Sleeve CPU Cooler Thermaltake Smart Series 850W PSU EVGA GeForce GTX 660 FTW Signature 2 02G-P4-2663-KR Video Card - 2GB GDDR5, NZXT M59 Case (4 120mm case fans) Edited April 9, 2013 by mac173 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wevsspot Posted April 9, 2013 Posted April 9, 2013 Don't forget to put the motherboard on a static free surface Did you ever check for bent pins in the cpu socket? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mac173 Posted April 9, 2013 Posted April 9, 2013 Yes, the pins look good. I checked that before I installed the CPU. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
d6bmg Posted April 9, 2013 Posted April 9, 2013 You can use the anti-static pack in which motherboard came in as the base of the motherboard when you are going to test the system. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mac173 Posted April 10, 2013 Posted April 10, 2013 (edited) Things may be clearer now. I took the machine apart, have the MOBO on the anti-static bag, and when I plugged it in, the PSU does nothing. Totally dead. it was running in the machine yesterday, but out of the case the fan does not even turn on. I double checked the power wire, getting 120v AC as expected. Just for fun, I checked continuity between the two power pins in the power cord slot, no continuity. Should I not have cont between those? UPDATE, realized I need to jump the 24 pin connector to get the PSU on, I just plugged it into my tester and the PSU came on. The tester shows no light on the -5v. I got the same on my old PSU, which is why I was replacing it. Now, I tested the PSU yesterday, and the -5v was lit. Could the -5v connection be causing the SATA problems? Edited April 10, 2013 by mac173 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wevsspot Posted April 10, 2013 Posted April 10, 2013 Not a problem with the ports themselves. But possibly the SATA power devices attached to that plug. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
d6bmg Posted April 10, 2013 Posted April 10, 2013 UPDATE, realized I need to jump the 24 pin connector to get the PSU on, I just plugged it into my tester and the PSU came on. The tester shows no light on the -5v. I got the same on my old PSU, which is why I was replacing it. Now, I tested the PSU yesterday, and the -5v was lit. Could the -5v connection be causing the SATA problems? No -5V isn't causing any problem as it have no functionality in a PC. Test other parts of your rig. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mac173 Posted April 10, 2013 Posted April 10, 2013 Well, the SATA power connections test OK. The tester shows 12v, 5v and 3v but not a -5v for the SATA power connector. Those are all lit. Just for s#$% and giggles I hooked my old PSU up. Now, my vid card was not working in the old setup, but the SATA ports were. With the old PSU everything stayed the same. I am giving up and putting my old machine back together. I will RMA the MOBO. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wevsspot Posted April 10, 2013 Posted April 10, 2013 I need to make sure you mean the "-" 5v (it should be the white wire in the 24pin atx plug). If you really mean the "-" 5v then D6 is right, it has no purpose on newer ATX v2 power supplies. However, if you mean any of the 5v VDC - then you could have a problem. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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