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GUIDE - MDPC-X SLeeving of individual Cables! by Kamaster

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STEP # 10

 

Put the 15mm heatshrink peice over the heatshrink (fish it over top of sleeving)

 

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The sleeving sits flat, therefore it is wider than it is tall.

 

When you put the heatshrink on it, the position the heatshrink so that the narrow part of the heatshrink is around the widest part of the sleeve.This will hold the heatshrink in place and it wont move.

 

see the pic below

 

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STEP # 12

 

Position the heatshrink so that it begins at the beginning of the First crimping flaps (from the tip) ( between the 1st and 2nd crimping flaps) and than continues over top the sleeving.

 

 

This is another important part Because this is going to make or break the heatshrink lining up and will decide how high the heatshrink will be from the insertion point of the connector.

 

 

Notice how the heatshrink just touches the beginnning of the first crimping flap. The second crimping flap (which crimps onto the pvc wire sheilding) is completely covered by the heatshrink.

 

The first crimping flap is the smallest flap that crimps right around the bare copper wiring.

 

 

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Because the wiring i used has a thick pvc wall, I decided to go to the BEGINNING OF THE FIRST crimping flap and not to the end of it (closest to the tip)

 

I did this because when the heatshrink is further into the connector, it is harder to insert it and it typically makes things bend and harder to line up. But it can be done with good success.

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STEP # 13

 

13. Take the heat gun on LOW settings, and apply heat all around evenly, start where heat shrink is at its widest point. Allow the heatshrink to shrink partially, allow it to touch wire but fully shrink (looks like a balloon).

 

 

Now heat the heat shrink on LOW HEAT!!!!!!!!

 

Just put the heat on for a second, than back off and repeat this until it has shrunk just enough for you to still be able to move the heatshrink around!

 

Heat the heatshrink part that is wider than the sleeve first, do each side, than move around, this will keep the heatshrink straight.

 

check out the pics

 

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IMG_0664.jpg

 

NOTICE the balloon like shape of the heatshrink, thats what you need to shrink to at first

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STEP # 14

 

14. Position heatshrink so that it aligns perfectly at the begining of the first crimping flap (from the tip) (between 1st and 2nd flap) see pics

 

Notice the first pic, that is incorrect line up of the heatshrink

 

IMG_0665.jpg

 

NOTICE the second pic, CORRECT LINE UP

 

IMG_0664.jpg

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STEP # 15

 

15. Take the heat gun and apply evenly for a quick second at top, than bottom than sides until heatshrink fully shrinks (you will see the outline of the sleeving threw the heatshrink)

 

 

Turn the heat gun on HIGH, and heat evenly all over. AGAIN heat for a second, and pull away, and repeat until the heatshrink is fully shrunk.

 

YOu will be able to see the outline of the sleeving through the heatshrink, thats when you know its fully shrunk.

 

here are some pics

 

IMG_0666.jpg

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STEP # 16

 

16. Take your nails (index and thumb) and pinch the point where the sleeving ends (where you see it go from being thick to thin(than transition point) )

 

While the heatshrink is still hot, Take your nails and make indents into the heatshrink where the sleeving ends, where it goes from fat to thin (transition point)

 

What this does, is it helps the wire go into the connector more smoothly and allows you to gauge if the heatshrink is on correctly or if it needs adjustment.

 

Notice the pic from step 15, the transition point looks smooth (see below)

 

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Now look at it after pinching

 

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IMG_0669.jpg

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STEP # 17

 

17. Adjust the amount of heatshrink that is after the sleeving, you may have to pinch at the transition point and pull the sleeving slightly to get the desire amount of heatshrink after the sleeving. (this is important because it will allow for easy seating into the connector) ( with experience you will be able to tell by the look of it)

 

 

This is important, because if there isnt enough heatshrink after the transition point, that means it will be very hard to FULLY insert the wire into the connector and have it securely lock into place.

 

What you need to do, is heat the heatshrink up, than pinch with ur nails at the transition point, and SLIGHTLY pull on the sleeving.

What you are doing is pulling the sleeving out, so that more of the wire can go into the connector and securely fasten itself.

 

After you do some pulling, heat up the heatshrink again, and pinch the transition point with your nails again so that you can gauge the new length.

 

Repeat until you think its good. (this comes with experience and practice)

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STEP # 18 and 19

 

18. Insert wire into connector (make sure the pointy part of the pin is facing the connectors flaps (where it slips into the other connector)

 

19. Grab the wire at the thickest point (where the wire + sleev + heatshrink are) and push into the connector until you hear two faint clicks.

 

 

 

Bascially insert the wire while grabbing it at the transition point (the thickest part of the wire)

 

The thickest part of the wire consists of (wire + sleeve + heatshrink)

 

Grab it firmly and push it in until you hear TWO CLICKS!!!!!

 

its important that you hear the clicks, because thats saying the wire has secured itself and will not come out

 

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NOTICE how the crimping flaps (and pointy part) of the connector pin are pointing in the same direction as the locking flap of the atx connector.

 

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This is how it should turn out

 

NO KINKS, no bends, no transition point showing.

 

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CHECK OUT how the wire curves, and where the connectors locking flap is.

 

IMG_0677.jpg

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STEP # 20, 21 and 22

 

20. If it does not go in and falls short, pull it out and repeat step # 16 - heating and pinching the transition point and lightly pulling the sleeving slightly out.

 

21. Repeat for other side

 

22. Repeat for all other wires and watch all the wires line up perfectly.

 

here are some pics of stuf i have done

 

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THE END

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