First water cooling setup

[maestr0]

So I've come to the conclusion that I need a graphics card upgrade. My 5770 runs Crysis nicely at full settings, but I'd prefer more than 20fps. My plan is to purchase a GTX 580 (and heavily overclock, of course!) and overhaul my computer's cooling solution. I have a Hyper 212+ on my i7 860, but I want to switch that, and the stock cooler on the GPU for a water cooling setup. I've done some reading online, and have begun to assemble a water cooling loop.

 

These are my system specs:

ASUS Maximus III Formula

i7 860 with Hyper 212+ @ 3.6GHz

2x2GB G.Skill Trident @ 1600MHz 8-8-8-24

XFX HD 5770 @ 1005/1355 at 1287mV (soon to be ASUS GTX 580)

HAF 922

 

As for the loop, I've discovered 1/2" tubing is prefered due to flow rate, and the ideal pump is the Swiftech MCP655. As for CPU waterblock, I was considering the Enzotech Stealth. GPU waterblock was going to be the Koolance VID-NX580. The HAF 922 has 2 dual 140mm fan mounts, so I was going to use a dual radiator, probably the Swiftech MCR220. All this will be connected with Primochill UV 1/2" tubing.

 

I have 2 problems as of now:

1) the GPU and radiator are 1/4" connectors, but I will be using 1/2" tubing. I know there are adapters, but will this drastically reduce my flow rate? Also, I don't know which component I need to make these fit with the tubing - possible this?

2) I need a resevoir for this loop. Again the tubing size comes up, as most resevoirs available to me are 1/4" connectors. I was considering the Primochill Typhoon.

 

Any opinions on this setup? Am I missing anything? Will all this connect together and fit in my case?

[Speedway]

That is the exact pump you want! It is actually a re-branded Liang D5, and goes by a few dif names (Koolance calls it the PMP-450, others have dif names) but it is all the same. Swiftech are solid rads. If you want the best possible cpu water block, then you should be either looking at the EK Supreme or the Koolance 360, in terms of performance those 2 lead the way! Heck those same to companies lead the way for gpu blocks as well.

 

Your gpu blocks will have flow rates, so you will want to check those to make sure the gpu block isn't restrictive. But, if you go with the Koolance gpu block, then you are fine, they are good with water flow. Don't know much about that res, but even with 1/4' fittings, that pump is strong enough to compensate for some restrictiveness!

 

+1 on the 1/2"

[Waco]

I have 2 problems as of now:

1) the GPU and radiator are 1/4" connectors, but I will be using 1/2" tubing. I know there are adapters, but will this drastically reduce my flow rate? Also, I don't know which component I need to make these fit with the tubing - possible this?

2) I need a resevoir for this loop. Again the tubing size comes up, as most resevoirs available to me are 1/4" connectors. I was considering the Primochill Typhoon.

G 1/4" connectors are the standard on nearly everything - it doesn't mean they are 1/4" barbs though! The G 1/4" describes the threading on them.

 

As for tubing - 3/8" versus 1/2" versus 1/4" isn't a huge difference at all (at most a degree or two). 3/8" is massively easier to route than 1/2"...I'd switch if I didn't already have mine built.

 

 

EDIT: I've heard many bad things about the Primochill Typhoon 3 - I don't know if those bad things carry over to the earlier models though. That pump/radiator/tubing/block should be good though.

Edited March 26, 2011 by Waco

[sticknstone]

The gpu used nozzle threading is standard G 1/4 BSP; Therefore, the selected fittings will be g 1/4 bsp threads to a 1/2 barb.

For G1/4 threaded hubs on the radiator choose a g 1/4 threaded fitting to a 1/2 barb. The only thing that is uncertain is the 1/4 threading type for the radiator. NPT is national pipe thread and bsp is british standard pipe thread so be sure to ask the salesperson for the correct 1/4 thread type.

These fittings are all that will be needed on the gpu and rad. Those components would need no adaptors.

The res uses •4x Ghost Compression Fittings so more research will be needed to figure out the fitting to use. However, proper fittings can be easily found, so they are not a major purchase desicion. They can be purchased after the components at a plumbing store.

Also when threading the fittings on the components use a few wraps of thread tape (very fine pvc that is non sticky) to seal the connection. At a plumbing store the great thing is that the salesperson could be knowledgable about the use of the product and be able to provide information.

[beeiilll]

The thread tape that everyone speaks of is called Teflon Tape. Used by plumbers all the time.

 

One thing that doesn't get mentioned in these threads about the tape though is to be careful when using it. The teflon makes things screw together easier by being very slick by nature so you want to watch that you don't get carried away and tighten things too much. I have seen guys torque things down and break them when using teflon tape on the threads just becasue is makes things easier to put together and provides lubrication to the fittings as they are turned.

 

Just an FYI that I think folks should know about. Otherwise the stuff is great to use on fittings although I personally prefer to use a liquid thread compound since I can get a better seal with it, although it does require a bit more patience and caution in the amount used.

 

 

Bill

Edited March 26, 2011 by beeiilll

[maestr0]

Looking at the CPU blocks SpeedwayNative recommended, does anyone have a preference? I can't find a 1-on-1 comparison anywhere, but there is lots of positive feedback for both. I'm considering the Koolance 370 at this point.

 

I've read that many GTX 580's are not compatible with the watercooling blocks because they vary from the reference design. Does anyone know if the ASUS GTX 580 (not CUDA II) is compatible with the block I selected?

 

And as far as the resevoir goes, I have sen many negative reviews of the Primochill Typhoon, so I may try the Ek Multioption Res X2 250 instead. My only question is how it mounts to the case - I see that it comes with brackets, but where do they attach?

[sticknstone]

For the installation of the ek res it has two brackets and requires two screws into the case. Definitely the case will not have the two holes pre-drilled, so they will need to be drilled. Alternately some velcro tape could be used. Consider the res completely installed leak free resting on the case bottom with the velcro tape holding the res from simply tipping over and not supporting its weight. Check out the ek website review page http://ekwaterblocks.com/

[bigball1]

If you going to go this far, why not go a little farther and get something for your motherboard as well. like this, its the only thing on ncix site that they have for your board. But if your going to overclock your system and that board is good at it, l would.

[iskout]

Looking at the CPU blocks SpeedwayNative recommended, does anyone have a preference? I can't find a 1-on-1 comparison anywhere, but there is lots of positive feedback for both. I'm considering the Koolance 370 at this point.

 

I've read that many GTX 580's are not compatible with the watercooling blocks because they vary from the reference design. Does anyone know if the ASUS GTX 580 (not CUDA II) is compatible with the block I selected?

 

And as far as the resevoir goes, I have sen many negative reviews of the Primochill Typhoon, so I may try the Ek Multioption Res X2 250 instead. My only question is how it mounts to the case - I see that it comes with brackets, but where do they attach?

You might want to consider the Apogee XT for a waterblock. I use it and it keeps my E8400 OC'd at 4.0GHz pretty cool (30C at idle, 44C at load). Though it does impede flow rate a bit, the MCP655 should handle it without much problem.

 

The EK Supreme HF is also very good, with lower flow resistance. It's also slightly cheaper, from what i've seen.

[Speedway]

Looking at the CPU blocks SpeedwayNative recommended, does anyone have a preference? I can't find a 1-on-1 comparison anywhere, but there is lots of positive feedback for both. I'm considering the Koolance 370 at this point.

 

I've read that many GTX 580's are not compatible with the watercooling blocks because they vary from the reference design. Does anyone know if the ASUS GTX 580 (not CUDA II) is compatible with the block I selected?

 

And as far as the resevoir goes, I have sen many negative reviews of the Primochill Typhoon, so I may try the Ek Multioption Res X2 250 instead. My only question is how it mounts to the case - I see that it comes with brackets, but where do they attach?

 

 

You would be very happy with the Koolance 370, I know I love my 360 The only other block that i would buy would be the EK Supreme. If you want to look at some heads-up comparisons, you should prob use the 360 instead of the 370 (since it's newer) I know I have seen the EK Supreme vs the 360, and they are very close in temps! Like I said initially, you can't go wrong with Koolance or EK. The ASUS GTX 580 you linked is a ref design. The reference coolers are compitible with the block you originally picked With the res, maybe some1 esle who has that particular Ek res can comment on how it is installed, but I can tell you a 250mm (almost 10in) res is huge, and a smaller res won't affect your performance at all! But, stick had a good suggestion with the velcro tape, I use it on my D5 pump! The res I use right now is by Koolance(link has all needed parts: res, bottom, top, and mounting brackets), the mounts are designed for 120mm fan holes, which makes installation pretty easy! I actually got everything on ebay though from Hellfire Toys. he is a gerat guy, sells all kinds of WC parts, and usually will give you a discount, as well as combined shipping rates, which for me was cheaper than ordering from Koolance Just msg him a list of everything you are looking for and he will send you a quote, compare and if you save $$$ then great

[Waco]

If you going to go this far, why not go a little farther and get something for your motherboard as well. like this, its the only thing on ncix site that they have for your board. But if your going to overclock your system and that board is good at it, l would.

Watercooling motherboard components is usually a waste of time and money. Most high-end motherboards already have more than adequate cooling for the mosfets, northbridge, and southbridge.

[maestr0]

Watercooling motherboard components is usually a waste of time and money. Most high-end motherboards already have more than adequate cooling for the mosfets, northbridge, and southbridge.

If I have the extra cash, I might go for the motherboard coolers, but I agree they are accessories. I looked at Hellfire Toyz, but their prices are higher than what I'm going to pay at the other site (if my math is right...) plus there's internationals shipping costs. Not fun.

 

I think I'm set on the Koolance 370 for the CPU, but it's too close to others to judge who's better.

 

And as far as the loop goes in general, should I be splitting anything? If I got with chipset cooling, I might split to keep the total loop flowing, but if it's only CPU and GPU, I SHOULD be fine... right? And will one 2x140mm be enough, or should I get a second? (the HAF 922 has 2 2x140mm fan mountings).

 

Now to the fun part... tubing. I don't know how well 1/2"tubing bends, but I can't imagine it will do so easily. The way the GPU waterblock is facing will make the tubes go down, but the radiator for this loop will probably be at the top of my case (although, I COULD mount it on the side, but I understand heat likes to rise). Is it worth getting those elbow connectors to reroute the water without annoying the tubing? The case is pretty spacious, I just don't want to impede the water's flow.

Whoops! Has connectors on both sides... Anywhoo anyone with experience with 1/2" tubing, will it make 90 degree joints without too many problems? My motherboard is a little cramped, and the components will be pretty close to each other.

 

The pump I was looking at is no longer carried locally (WHY??) but they still have the -B variant, without a speed controller. Is it worth shipping the normal pump from somewhere else, or is the speed controller even necessary?

Edited March 29, 2011 by maestr0