Puck Posted March 19, 2011 Posted March 19, 2011 I would also run two separate loops, one for the GPUs and one for the CPU. Not only for the heat output, but GPU blocks are notoriously restrictive. Like mentioned, forget about trying to WC things like chipsets, RAM, and HDDS - they just add TONS of restrictions for no benefit. Run the loop Res->Pump->Blocks->Rad->back to res. On the cards, parallel feed them to keep their temps even so you can reach higher OCs on both, instead of one being able to OC farther then the other due to temps. I prefer barbs+clamps, and am against 90* adapters due to their effect on flow. If possible run 45* and let the tubing take care of the rest if you must use angled fittings. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waco Posted March 19, 2011 Posted March 19, 2011 (edited) Nothing is 100% leak proof. Compression have a higher level of leak proof. But if you even do maintenance they are a "B" to get off. Bards are a cleaner install but you may have to but a clamp on it but that depends on the tubing you get. if your tubing is good stuff and its not hard, got a little give to it and its proper size then you wont need clamps. As it will make a seal when its around the barb. You wont know till you do your test run of the system. If you did it right you wont have any leaks. And yes use plumbers tape on all treads. But do it cleanly as if you have excess on the end of the thread, then a bit will tare off and be floating around in your system For Right angle adapters, thats up to you to know as to how you lay out your tubing. I disagree with everything in this post. Compression fittings are more likely to leak than barbs. Plumber's tape is a bad idea on any block/rad/etc that isn't tapered (essentially none of them). Barbs have built-in o-rings for a reason. Clamps are ALWAYS a must when putting a watercooling system together. 90 degree / right angle adapters should be avoided if possible. I would also run two separate loops, one for the GPUs and one for the CPU. Not only for the heat output, but GPU blocks are notoriously restrictive. Since he's using full-cover blocks the opposite is true - they are usually very unrestrictive. Universal blocks (like the Swiftech and Fuzion) are the ones that are crazy restrictive. Edited March 19, 2011 by Waco Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Speedway Posted March 19, 2011 Posted March 19, 2011 What would be better rads? I want quiet, and I want cold. I hate noise, and most often I game in an environment with low speaker volume. The hum in here is absurd. What were you spending on the Black Ice rads? I think the cost on those are similiar to the Thermochill TA series rads! If you are ok with spending $120ish on a 120.3, then you should def look at Thermochill Rads. The PA and TA series are both very solid, TA replaced PA, which is why you can usually find the PA series discounted right now! But, make no mistake about it, whether you get TA or PA series, both perform above the rest, and work well with quiter, less powerful fans! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richaemry Posted March 20, 2011 Posted March 20, 2011 (edited) What were you spending on the Black Ice rads? I think the cost on those are similiar to the Thermochill TA series rads! If you are ok with spending $120ish on a 120.3, then you should def look at Thermochill Rads. The PA and TA series are both very solid, TA replaced PA, which is why you can usually find the PA series discounted right now! But, make no mistake about it, whether you get TA or PA series, both perform above the rest, and work well with quiter, less powerful fans! Black Ice rads are 40 for the 140mm and 60 for the 360mm. I'll go with something else though if I'm not getting rid of the wind tunnel in here. Thermochill stuff is at least twice as expensive as those were. I'm shopping around for something else now. Does Thermochill even make a 140.1mm? Edited March 20, 2011 by richaemry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Speedway Posted March 20, 2011 Posted March 20, 2011 Black Ice rads are 40 for the 140mm and 60 for the 360mm. I'll go with something else though if I'm not getting rid of the wind tunnel in here. Thermochill stuff is at least twice as expensive as those were. I'm shopping around for something else now. Does Thermochill even make a 140.1mm? Sry, thought maybe you were looking at the Black Ice Exteme rads, you never specified. Those are priced close to the Thermochills, could you post a link of the Black Ice rads you were looking at? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richaemry Posted March 20, 2011 Posted March 20, 2011 Sry, thought maybe you were looking at the Black Ice Exteme rads, you never specified. Those are priced close to the Thermochills, could you post a link of the Black Ice rads you were looking at? 360mm option 1, 360mm option 2, 140mm. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Speedway Posted March 20, 2011 Posted March 20, 2011 360mm option 1, 360mm option 2, 140mm. Ahh, sorry, I should have asked which Black Ice rads you were talking about. Those will work well with lower speed fans! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waco Posted March 20, 2011 Posted March 20, 2011 Ahh, sorry, I should have asked which Black Ice rads you were talking about. Those will work well with lower speed fans! I was under the impression that none of those work well with lower speed fans due to the high fins per inch. For low speed fans I believe the Swiftech MCR-320QP are unmatched for their price. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
camaro_dude15 Posted March 20, 2011 Posted March 20, 2011 (edited) Can I put the top back on or do I have to leave it off? It would cover about 1 inch of the 320mm rad. What are decent no drip fittings and couplers I should look for? yes you can leave the top on, look closely at it, it is vented in that cover, compression fittings, a bit pricy but good insurance for no leaks and i think they look good i didnt see waco's post about the barb fittings untill after i posted, i have never heard of compression fittings leaking im not saying its never happend, but ive seen barbed fittings leak Edited March 20, 2011 by camaro_dude15 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigball1 Posted March 20, 2011 Posted March 20, 2011 I disagree with everything in this post. Compression fittings are more likely to leak than barbs. Plumber's tape is a bad idea on any block/rad/etc that isn't tapered (essentially none of them). Barbs have built-in o-rings for a reason. Clamps are ALWAYS a must when putting a watercooling system together. 90 degree / right angle adapters should be avoided if possible. Since he's using full-cover blocks the opposite is true - they are usually very unrestrictive. Universal blocks (like the Swiftech and Fuzion) are the ones that are crazy restrictive. I have never had any problems with anybody installing compression fittings. Bard l have seen leak tons of time. 10mins after install and 2-3 years down the road. As the O-rings dry out they crack which will lead to leaks. So this is why the plumers tape is its an other line of defense against leaks. Clamps are not always a must. Highly/Strongly recommend. I have had water cooling for 7 years now on 3 different setups, not all my barbs had clamps on them. Did l have a problem with some, Yes and l did put a clamp on that barb. But thats what testing the setup is for. Will l ever say a system will will never need a clamp No. i didnt see waco's post about the barb fittings untill after i posted, i have never heard of compression fittings leaking im not saying its never happend, but ive seen barbed fittings leak Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Speedway Posted March 21, 2011 Posted March 21, 2011 I was under the impression that none of those work well with lower speed fans due to the high fins per inch. For low speed fans I believe the Swiftech MCR-320QP are unmatched for their price. I'm pretty sure its the Black Ice Extreme rads that are optimized for the higher speed fans. The SR-1 is their newest lower speed fan rad, and it is supposed to be BA, the GT Stealth is their economy lower fan speed rad, if I'm not mistaken. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richaemry Posted March 21, 2011 Posted March 21, 2011 I'm pretty sure its the Black Ice Extreme rads that are optimized for the higher speed fans. The SR-1 is their newest lower speed fan rad, and it is supposed to be BA, the GT Stealth is their economy lower fan speed rad, if I'm not mistaken. They had some decent reviews and they are CHEAP. If they will do what I'm needing for not too much money I'm down. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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