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First forray into liquid


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http://www.frozencpu..._360.html#blank

 

Some people have been recommending this kit with these blocks

 

http://www.frozencpu...970-Acetal.html

 

and this bridge connector

 

http://www.frozencpu...ple_Serial.html

 

I'm willing to drop the cash to do this. You only die twice eh? I just can't drop another 2k into cooling LOL.

 

 

I was actually going to say something about a parallel bridge connector, they keep the temps on your cards more or less the same, becuase in series by the time the water gets to the third card its already pretty hot. and for your radiator, since you have so much stuff to cool i would say an extra rad for the rear would help, this140mm rad will bolt right up to the existing fan mount in your 932! should help keep the temps nice and cool, but becuase you have all the equipment to cool i would go with larger tubing, like 1/2 inch I.D.

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http://www.dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=519

 

What about this kit?

 

And these blocks?

 

http://www.dangerden.com/store/dd-6970-6950-water-block-v1.html

 

And this for a second radiator?

 

http://www.dangerden.com/store/black-ice-gtx140-xtreme.html

 

And then some more tubing like this? (more of what the kit comes with)

 

http://www.dangerden.com/store/clearflex-60-tubing.html

 

And this coolant? (more of what the kit comes with)

 

http://www.dangerden.com/store/feser-one-uv-clear-illusion-f1-coolant.html

 

I know most of you are saying to just use water, but leaks mean death with water............ :'(

 

That's more than what I spent on my cards, but why else do I work? LOL.

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You guys are all very quick to rule out kits. My loop was a kit (h20-220 before I modified it) and it did VERY well! Great block, pump, awesome choice of tubing, and reservoir. The only thing I didn't like about it was the fans (nobody ever likes stock fans), and the coolant. Kits can always be taken into consideration, just take a look at the components first. However, pre-built loops are a big no-no. Some air coolers do better than most pre-built kits.

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You guys are all very quick to rule out kits. My loop was a kit (h20-220 before I modified it) and it did VERY well! Great block, pump, awesome choice of tubing, and reservoir. The only thing I didn't like about it was the fans (nobody ever likes stock fans), and the coolant. Kits can always be taken into consideration, just take a look at the components first. However, pre-built loops are a big no-no. Some air coolers do better than most pre-built kits.

 

:withstupid:

 

I noticed you mentioned coolant. I didn't use it because it tore down performance and coated my loop in whatever color it was suppose to be. There again another performance flaw.

 

All I ever needed to get the best performance was a bottle of PT nuke and walmart distilled water. a Bottle of PT nuke and a gallon of distilled water was all it took and maybe a SIlver kill coil if you want. But coloring or coolants are only going to be a gain as far as looks of the system. It will degrade performance though.

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i looked at these blocks as well.. and the site says they are pretty much only compatible with powercooler... i dunno probably should make sure they will fit.

 

 

It says in small print right above that that it fits reference PCBs too.

 

Can you mix blocks from one company and everything else from another?

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Is nonconductive coolant really non conductive? I don't want this stuff to break if it leaks.

Temporarily, sure. After time it will be just as conductive as anything else.

 

I was actually going to say something about a parallel bridge connector, they keep the temps on your cards more or less the same, becuase in series by the time the water gets to the third card its already pretty hot. and for your radiator, since you have so much stuff to cool i would say an extra rad for the rear would help, this140mm rad will bolt right up to the existing fan mount in your 932! should help keep the temps nice and cool, but becuase you have all the equipment to cool i would go with larger tubing, like 1/2 inch I.D.

With enough flow through the system the temperature change between the first and third block should be nearly negligible in series.

 

 

I know most of you are saying to just use water, but leaks mean death with water............ :'(

Water is better than anything else in terms of heat capacity. Those other coolants become conductive over time as well as having higher temperatures overall.

 

I would suggest going with full blocks (like the DangerDen blocks). With high-end cards many times you have to add quite a few fans to keep the passive heatsinks cool when using universal blocks (which sorta defeats the purpose of watercooling IMHO).

Edited by Waco

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It says in small print right above that that it fits reference PCBs too.

 

Can you mix blocks from one company and everything else from another?

 

 

ahhh all those other ones are manufacturer cooled ones... kk i guess i didnt understand that the first time i ready it. cool cool. either way would hate to pay 200-300 dollars for something that doesnt fit.

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:withstupid:

 

I noticed you mentioned coolant. I didn't use it because it tore down performance and coated my loop in whatever color it was suppose to be. There again another performance flaw.

 

All I ever needed to get the best performance was a bottle of PT nuke and walmart distilled water. a Bottle of PT nuke and a gallon of distilled water was all it took and maybe a SIlver kill coil if you want. But coloring or coolants are only going to be a gain as far as looks of the system. It will degrade performance though.

 

Yes, putting coolant in that kit was a bad idea. But then again, go to XtremeSystems (or any other website like it) and look at their liquid cooling gallery. You'll see that most rookies use coolant, whether they did or did not purchase a liquid cooling kit.

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Does anyone have any advice on lop order? Like CPU then rad then GPU then rad etc. etc.

 

Thanks for all the great information!

If you have a strong enough pump it really doesn't matter - the water temperature in the loop from beginning to end shouldn't vary by more than a degree or two at most. Whatever loop order makes it easiest to put the loop together is the right loop order.

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If you have a strong enough pump it really doesn't matter - the water temperature in the loop from beginning to end shouldn't vary by more than a degree or two at most. Whatever loop order makes it easiest to put the loop together is the right loop order.

I beg the differ, it does matter. When I put my 120.2 rad on top of the case and my pump at the bottom, I had the pump going into a dual bay reservoir which went to the 120.2 rad. My pump was at the bottom, trying to force pressure into a reservoir (which isn't pressurized), trying to get to the rad at the top.

 

Imo, res -> pump -> rad -> cpu -> gpu -> res

 

It really doesn't matter too much, but the most important thing is res -> pump, never pump -> res

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