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Swiftech H20-220 APEX ULTRA versus CoolIt Freezone


puzzled

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It depends on the size of the main PSU; many ppl use a separate PSU because the main PSU can't handle the load.

 

A good TEC block should come w/ all the necessary anti-condensation materials, di-electric grease, etc; but you'd better check to make sure

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Definitely a good idea to go w/ a 320mm RAD; especially if you want to cool the GPU as well. That TEC WB will certainly outperform the Freezone.

 

Have you considered H2O cooling the GPU as well? Either the Swiftech MCW-60 or a full-cover block would do nicely on that X1950 (check out www.ekwaterblocks.com for good full-cover blocks; may also be available on frozencpu).

 

 

I haven't had a working X1950 for some time. I've got the master card coming back from Newegg via RMA. The slave card needs to go back to the manufacturer because it wasn't bought through Newegg.

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Don't for get that you have to seal up your mainboard with the tec against condensation wich would rule out any rma's in the future(but well worth it)

also don't forget dielectric(spelt wrong) grease.

 

This is my 3rd MB in a very short time frame. If I have to RMA a 4th, it's time to move on. I feel like I've given DFI more than a fair opportunity to show me some reliability.

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also running a tec just in the loop will give you about 5 or so degrees off your temps depending on the wattage of the tec also bear in mind that a seperate psu is needed to run a tec somthing from meanwell, haven't got a link atm but do a google there around 100 dollars of so.

 

I have an OP1000. I remember someone recently asking me why I would ever need it. :rolleyes:

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It depends on the size of the main PSU; many ppl use a separate PSU because the main PSU can't handle the load.

 

A good TEC block should come w/ all the necessary anti-condensation materials, di-electric grease, etc; but you'd better check to make sure

 

Swiftech has a how to .pdf here:

 

http://www.swiftnets.com/products/MCW6500-...ation_guide.pdf

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i like the look of the swift mcw6500-t, would go nice with my w/c loop.

 

did some1 say it would only nock off 5c from normal w/c. its ment to be able to cool far better than that. it all about staying under the tec blocks max watts. so with a c2d for example that has a stock voltage of 1.3. say ure max o/c on the chip is 3.6Ghz with 1.55volt on air or h2o cooling. with the mcw6500-t & at 3.6Ghz u'd probibily only use say 1.325v, instad of 1.55v.

 

if u just add loads of voltage when using the mcw6500, like normal o/cing on air/h2o. u will end up with a worse temps than on air or h2o.

 

once ive got a few more upgrades mobo,psu & a dx10 gpu, i'll get a mcw6500. so unless i win sum money it wont be for a good 2-3months.

hopfully some1 else might hav done a review of the mcw6500 by then, as im yet to see it propperly put through its paces.

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This is my 3rd MB in a very short time frame. If I have to RMA a 4th, it's time to move on. I feel like I've given DFI more than a fair opportunity to show me some reliability.

 

 

im not trying to fanboy on dfi's side puzzled, but my last mobo was the 3200dr. u must hav been unlucky as my board was s**t hot, never gave me eney prob's at all. i was using RAID 0 on 2 of my spinpoints for over a year, with no issues at all.

ive always found it so odd as so meny people had so meny prob's with that mobo.

 

my friend who lives just down the road is still running the 3200dr too. hes using raid & running his opty144 at 2.8Ghz odd. which is about the same o/c i ran for over a year with same opty144 too.

 

i'd be losing faith myself if i'd had such a . mobo, thats just the reason i stopped buying asus mobo's.

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Guest r3d c0m3t

If you've got the money and resources the two (or three) best options are phase change (go with Asetek :) ) LN2, and dry ice.

 

LN2 and dry ice wouldn't give you everlasting results because you're going to have to remove them from the premises after a while, with phase-change you can get permanent uber results. If you have $800+ to spend on such an extremity, if not then a water cooling kit with a TEC CPU and GPU block will do you just as good. :nod:

 

On top of that you're using this on an S939 'cessor, so depending on what TDP model you have (doesn't matter too much) you should search for blocks and such that have higher TDP tolerances...once that's done you're good to go.

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I haven't had a working X1950 for some time. I've got the master card coming back from Newegg via RMA. The slave card needs to go back to the manufacturer because it wasn't bought through Newegg.

 

I was going by your sig; if that's the case you should update your sig.

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im not trying to fanboy on dfi's side puzzled, but my last mobo was the 3200dr. u must hav been unlucky as my board was s**t hot, never gave me eney prob's at all. i was using RAID 0 on 2 of my spinpoints for over a year, with no issues at all.

ive always found it so odd as so meny people had so meny prob's with that mobo.

 

my friend who lives just down the road is still running the 3200dr too. hes using raid & running his opty144 at 2.8Ghz odd. which is about the same o/c i ran for over a year with same opty144 too.

 

i'd be losing faith myself if i'd had such a . mobo, thats just the reason i stopped buying asus mobo's.

 

I had an idea something might be wrong when I tried to RMA the 1st MB back to Newegg. They were out of them & offered a refund instead. That tells me they weren't going to carry them anymore. Why is that? I sent it back to DFI instead. It had a FDC issue. So did the next one. The 3rd MB didn't have any issues for the short time I've had it. The ULI controller crapped out recently. Tough to run those Raptors w/o it. Remember, the last 2 MB's came directly from DFI.

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I was going by your sig; if that's the case you should update your sig.

 

I'm currently using a laptop. My signature is fairly correct with the possible exception of the CPU cooler. I intend to have 2 working X1950's in Crossfire when they are finally replaced.

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