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About radodrill

  • Rank
    Resident EI
  • Birthday 04/19/1984

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Almost Heaven
  • Interests
    PCs, Modding, Cycling, Model RR


  • Computer Specs
    Hardware: DFI LanParty NF680i SLI LT T2R/G | Intel Q6600 G0 | OCZ 2x1Gb Reaper DDR2-1150
    2x BFG 8800 GTX (650/2000) | Creative X-Fi XtremeGamer | Silverstone Strider ST1000
    WD 250Gb SATA | WD 400Gb SATA | Lite-On LH-20A1L SATA DVD-R/RW DL

    Cooling: DangerDen TDX CPU| DangerDen Maze4 SB | DangerDen i875 NB
    2x DangerDen 8800GTX | HW Labs BIX3 | HW Labs X-Flow BIX3 | LIANG D5

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  1. The mounting would likely be a problem; you could use a core only GPU block as well as RAM-sinks If it's all copper and brass then you're fine; corrosion is primarily an issue when you have aluminum in the loop. I just use a few drops of Biocide (PT Nuke) to to prevent algae and/or microbial growth; some people also use some sterling silver as a Biocide.
  2. I'm not too fond of Asetek; and to be honest, I don't really like kits and IMHO the only "kits" worth buying are the bundles from Petra's Tech or DangerDen. The most important thing in the loop order is that te res/T-line is right before the pump inlet to keep the pump flooded while filling/bleeding. Often the radiator is placed right before the CPU block as this ensures the best CPU temps. The iandh RAMsinks are supposed to be quite good and should be very sufficient for cooling the RAM.
  3. different chipsets use different placement of the retention holes (and sometimes MB manufactures use hole placements that differ from the reference design) so you have to make sure that the chipset block is either universal or includes the correct hold-down plate for your chipset. The differences in different models of the Maze4 block are only in the top (the tops can also be purchased separately) so just chose the model that best describes the chipset used my your board. DD and EK do not seem to make full-cover blocks for the 9800GT; but both make blocks for the 9800GTX and 9800GX2
  4. I'd avoid Coolermaster WC components. I guess I didn't add Newegg to the list because about the only decent quality WC they sell are packaged kits made by Swiftech; so not nearly the same selection or the ability to cherry-pick components as with other stores catering to watercoolers. For the most part watercooling the RAM does not offer any tangible performance gains and merely adds restriction to the loop. Also, a lot of the RAM blocks that are on the market are aluminum, which is just one more reason to avoid tham as that's just asking for galvanic corrosion.
  5. I guess some people like the case itself because it's "designed" for watercooling; but I do not think it's cost effective to buy it just to turn around and replace their crappy WC with quality gear. Perhaps TT should offer the case without their WC stuff pre-installed
  6. I would not use aluminum for any component in my cooling loop. When Copper/Brass and Aluminum components are used in the same loop, it leads to galvanic corrosion; even the use of corrosion inhibitors will not prevent this, it merely slows down the process.
  7. Currently Petra's Tech has the D4 pump on sale for $29.95 I'm not sure if you'd want to go full-cover on the GPUs or not; for core only I'd suggest the Swiftech MCW-60 with RAMsinks (Swiftech makes a pack with all the sinks for the 8800GTX). I personally like the look of the full-cover blocks (they also allow cleaner tube routing) and either the EK blocks or the DangerDen blocks would be a good choice; I hear that the EK block has a slight performance advantage over the DD block. FWIW, I'm currently running a pair of DD 8800GTX blocks and they do an excellent job of cooling the cards (idle temps dropped 20C). You should probably be fine with a 240mm radiator; but if you have the room, I personally would probably step up to a 360mm rad.
  8. "Non-conductive" coolants aren't all they're cracked up to be; if it drops onto a component with some dust on it the dust will go into solution in the coolant and make the coolant conductive. The same is true for water; pure distilled water is not conductive, but as soon as impurities get in it it becomes conductive. The best thing to do is to be sure that all the tube to barb connections are secure and if necessary use a bit of Teflon tape on the threads of the barbs to make sure they seal correctly. If you take those precautions you shouldn't have any leaks unless you puncture a radiator with a screw.
  9. The primary difference is a redesigned hold-down/retention mechanism. Also, the top is somewhat different and there may be a minor performance boost. Either one is fine for a Q9450; just be sure the radiator is able to extract the heat of the CPU from the water (I would never recommend less than a 240mm rad).
  10. I don't think there's a major performance difference (pull might have a slight advantage) so in realiy it comes down to space and how it fits best; if you fave enough room, you could even have a push & pull configuration with fans on each side.
  11. Those fans should be OK; just I'd suggest using a shroud between the fans and the rad
  12. Typically the all in one H2O kits perform about the same as a good heatpipe cooler; I personally would rather opt for a Swiftech H2O-220 before purchasing a product from a company I hadn't heard of before, particularly since Swiftech is know for producing quality components that perform quite well.
  13. A fridge may or may not be able to handle the thermal load of the components in a cooling loop; they are primarily designed to maintain a setpoint temperature. Condensation on the tubing is only an issue if the temp on the outside surface of the tubing exposed to the air is lower than the ambient wet-bulb temperature or dew-point (based on the ambient room temperature and relative humidity). The easiest way of protecting against condensation is to put some tube/pipe insulation around the tubing.
  14. Part of the reason why it takes longer to bleed may be due to the actual reservopir design. It looks like you used to have the Swiftech Micro Res; in that res the baffle was designed to aid in separating the air bubbles out of the main flow of fluid to speed up the bleeding process. There shouldn't really be any issues with having the rad on top of the case; it does sometimes help to move the case around a bit to help the bubbles purge through to the res. The other alternative, which may or may not help, would be to hang the RAD on the rear of the case instead of on top.
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