My Max OC - pics - x2 4200 2.8

[expresso]

this is my max OC so far - maybe my Max Max - not sure if i can get higher - and not raise the volts -- here are my pics -

 

i just added a fan right over the memory and covers the board also - works great to cool the pwmic board - plus i have a antec spot fan to help - keep the board temps in check -

 

[expresso]

 

now my killed my plextor after i fixed the wires and added a fan over the memory and board --

 

when i booted - the plextor gave me blinking codes - i tried everything from the plextor help site - nothing worked

so i went to reflash the firmware - and i forgot to close my firewall and antivirus - well that hung it up - froze my computer - i had to reboot and it messed up my flash and my plextor - lucky thing - my warranty expires next week on the 14th - so i got a RMA and getting a replacement -- i got lucky -

 

i may get a little better temps on the cpu once i change the front fans on the RAD tomorrow - the ones i have now came with the case and are guiet but not high cfm -

 

i will have a controller so i can lower the new ones if i like or raise them all the way and cool the Rad better -

 

took almost a year to get 2.8 - i was stuck at 2.75 for the longest - because i was on air also -- now i got WC and started to play around more - but i think this is my max for my cpu - my memory is maxed out also - unless i want to go down to 2T - and divider - but even then - i dont think my CPU will handle much more volts stable -

not sure if its worth it - and maybe maybe get 2.9 -

 

2.8 feels pretty good - with DDR510 1T - no divider

 

thanks for all the help along the way - things have changed here - that sucks - but maybe we can keep it going and help outselves

[ebdoradz]

youre lucky yo reach 2.8Ghz on that manchester,

 

my friend's 4200+ wont even boot @ 2.43 he max out @ 2.4 with a 1.55 V on air ....

 

nice result and nice setup

[expresso]

thanks - i think your friends 4200 can do it - if he gets pc4000 memory - thats set to run at DDR500 stock - all he has to do is get the right settings for the pc4000 memory and he can be doing 2.5 very easy - then from there - he has to work his way up - testing along the way

 

what kind of setup does he have - in parts etc. -

[ebdoradz]

he got a DFI LP nf4 ultra-d, 4200+ manchester, arctic freezer 64 pro, 2*512mb of OCZ stuff, BFG 6600GT, fortron PSU ...1 160Gb hdd el cheapo noname dvd burner lol

 

he dont wanna push his system to far, he tryed 1.55V and he craped out @ 2.4 with 221fsb if i remember

[acphydro]

My 3800+ manchester did 2.8 easily with a voltage of 1.54. Anything higher required a modest voltage increase. My brother is currently using it as I've got this opty now.

 

It's possible you could go higher but I personally wouldn't wanna feed it anymore volts even though you are using water as well.

 

I've got an entry for my manchester at 2.75ghz and one for my opty at 2.95ghz [which doesnt help you any], but take a look through the dB.

 

Oh, I should note that I don't notice any difference in going from an x2 with 512kb cache per core at 2.8 to my opty at 2.95 with 1mb cache. It makes a minor difference in half life 2 dm but not much. 2.8 is pretty damn good if you ask me. Only real difference you'll see is in benchmarks lol.

 

I dropped my overclock 50mhz and was able to shave off a whole .1v which is totally worth it to me as the speed difference is negligible.

[expresso]

yes your right - even if i make it to 2.9 which i am not sure with the volts - who cares - only benchmarks show it

maybe 3.ghz -you see a little more - but for now 2.8 is just fine with me -- i just finished working on a laptop for my friend - updating it and clean it up - make a new image - and maybe tomorrow get to upgrade it to vista -

anyway - going from a laptop to this at 2.8 - feels so good

even though the notebook is a amd turion x2 - 2.0 ghz -

harddrives are still slow on notebooks - and just no where near the speeds i am used to now -

[acphydro]

yes your right - even if i make it to 2.9 which i am not sure with the volts - who cares - only benchmarks show it

maybe 3.ghz -you see a little more - but for now 2.8 is just fine with me -- i just finished working on a laptop for my friend - updating it and clean it up - make a new image - and maybe tomorrow get to upgrade it to vista -

anyway - going from a laptop to this at 2.8 - feels so good

even though the notebook is a amd turion x2 - 2.0 ghz -

harddrives are still slow on notebooks - and just no where near the speeds i am used to now -

 

I could *probably* make it a little past GGG with my opty but I'd probably be needing more than 1.65v to do so and to me it just isn't worth it, unless you've got the money to burn. Especially knowing the fact that getting another chip to clock that good isn't necessarily for sure either. If my opty can do 2.9 at 1.45v I am extremely happy if I burn it up trying to get 3.0 and have to get another one, who knows if my next one will go past 2.4, hell even stock. I overclock to get the best bang for my buck, although it is extremely fun making my chip outperform others that cost $100s more, its mostly for getting more than my money's worth.

 

For sure another 200mhz does make a difference in gaming especially if the game is CPU limited like the source engine seems to be but for the most part unless you are doing some major video encoding or something ultra CPU intensive you won't miss 200mhz especially from 3.0 to 2.8 lol.

 

I think I lost a half a frame per second dropping back 50mhz lol. When I first got this board/cpu I could only get it to 2.75ghz stable, and getting it to 2.95ghz didn't improve anything for me.

 

Either way I say enjoy what you got and congrats on your OC and build. If you want a real speed increase wait a bit for AMD or get a core 2 duo. For me this is probably all the speed I'll need for the next 6-24 months I'm hoping. Although newer games could prove me wrong in the near future, none of the ones I play stress my dual core at all and I'm guessing the next wave or two won't surpass it's capabilities either.

 

You could push for fun if you wanted to though

[expresso]

i think i will enjoy this for now - since all my stuff is only a year old -- i can use it for a couple of more years - at least one more because the next build will be with a quad core by then - and i would need to buy everything new again so i wait even two years for that -

 

now i got another problem - off this topic - my combo cd - dvd rom cdrw - wont boot off a disk anymore - and i dont have my dvdrw now - so i cant restore -

i havent a clue what happen - it used to work - i put the disk in - reboot and it keep going - i hit enter - etc.

i checked the bios and nothings wrong - normally once i reboot with the disk in the drive - it starts booting already with no input from me - using R-Drive Image restore - now nothing and i wont get my dvdrw drive back for at least two weeks - unless my drive is going bad - since i cant seem to be able to burn cds there either - i can rip dvds - but cant burn cds - - rip them yes - burn on that drive no - ? very strange

[acphydro]

Is the disc scuffed up?

 

Try reburning it to DVD if you've still got the files.

 

Try disabling boot from CDROM rebooting, then re-enabling it.

 

If not save your settings into a BIOS bank and try a CMOS clear.

 

You could also try switching its position as well, replacing the cable or etc.

 

I'd take a shot in the dark and say it was possibly failing if it just can't burn CDs anymore though.

[expresso]

thanks - its the weirdest thing - i tried everything you mentioned - the only one i didnt try was disconnecting the drive - the cable etc. and back - its not the disc - because i used the same disc on a notebook and it worked - i always thought it was the discs - i can rip from cds - but cant burn to them - it plays dvds - rips dvds - certain cds it reads - such as a program cd i have for office 2007 - it starts to spin that one - i have it to boot - i can disabled that one for now and put it back - the cmos is not it - i recently just cleared it for a week - while i was waiting for a replacement psu - the reason it sucks now - because i had to send my plextor back for RMA - and now i cant restore a image since it wont boot from the drive -

i have a usb key - maybe i can make a boot image there and boot from the key - or i have to wait till i get my plextor back - or worst case - i just buy another cd combo drive - i just would hate to buy another one and find out it wont boot either - then that would mean its not the drive - all well - i think its the cd part of the drive not working good - these drives are very cheap - you could get a new one for 20 dollars - anyway thanks - but i will try to disable the boot from cd first - and maybe heck the cable - i did notice thats it connected as a slave drive - its the only IDIE i have connected -- my hard drives are all SATA - and my plextor was also - now sure if that makes a difference - the drive being a slave rather than a master - i am not sure how to fix that - if i have to fix a jumper on the rear or connected on the wrong part of the ribbion cable ? i belieave it was connected the same way before when it did work - i remember it was a slave before - so who knows - i try it later - since i am running data life tools for my external WD drive - checking it out - started to give me some issues - and my system wont reboot with the external drive connected to usb - it works with firewire - but if i reboot with the drive on in the usb port - it hangs before it posts and shows the devices - if i shut it off - it continues - i am sure its a setting i have to adjust but i havnt a clue yet -

 

thanks

[acphydro]

I was under the impression that it was working fine before for some reason and all of a sudden this happened.

 

All of my drives are PATA/IDE and I can boot from either DVDRW they are both slaves. That shouldn't really matter at least not for modern boards. If you have another spare PC you could try connecting the drive to it and booting from it connected to another PC. If it fails it's almost gotta be the drive at fault.

 

Some of the drives made use 2 seperate lasers or a single one for both DVDRW and CDRW recording/reading. It is very possible that your drive's CDROM portion of the "laser" is bad or faulty. Worst case scenario is you could buy a drive from a local vendor to try to sort the issue out and return it if not needed.

 

Replace the cable and set it up as a master. If that won't do it I say just replace the drive if you've tried everything else. You can get a decent DVDRW drive for $30 these days.

 

As far as your External issue goes, never had any experience with those but maybe a BIOS setting is causing the hang such as a boot order or something like that.