charlie22911 Posted February 22, 2007 Posted February 22, 2007 thanks that is an awesome guide... i will be ordering the BT in a few minutes, any recommendations on an VC-RE alternative from newegg? VC-RE is out of stock and i want a HSF that wont block my PCIe slot . thanks again Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coors Posted February 22, 2007 Posted February 22, 2007 Why not order one from here>>> http://www.svc.com/vc-re.html Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlie22911 Posted February 22, 2007 Posted February 22, 2007 hey thanks raiderfan, but my gramps will only order from newegg... will this work? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?...N82E16835119079 thanks all Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darkorb Posted February 22, 2007 Posted February 22, 2007 charlie, u can go higher than 1.45 volts, 1.55 and for sure u got it Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlie22911 Posted February 22, 2007 Posted February 22, 2007 hey darkorb! i had thought of that, but i have had a low voltage binge as of late . im declaring 1.5v my max, and maybe 1.55 for laughs! but i definitely need better cooling and PSU to get it there . Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlie22911 Posted March 3, 2007 Posted March 3, 2007 sorry to dig this up... but i ordered the big typhoon, and it should either be here tomorrow or Monday. PCP&C PSU next. anyhow, i was doing some stock volt overclocking and came up with this-312x9 1.35v: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v206/cha...1/312x9_1-1.jpg failure after 17 hours... heat or power related maybe? or maybe its just ever so slightly unstable? more results when i get the BT . oh, and guess what canned air can do!! http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v206/charlie22911/cool.jpg thing is, after the temperature got so low, it would crash... a reboot would instantly bring it back though. is this what is referred to as a coldbug? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Candymancan Posted March 3, 2007 Posted March 3, 2007 Good to see your getting a new a heatsink. Your temps are just insainly high thats why your clocks arent getting 3ghz stable. I tend to agree tho about core temp i cant tell if its telling the truth or not. I relise the Inner Core of the cpu is going to warmer then say the IHS or "socket" readings, but my core temp readings get around 55-58c on 1.50v, and im using watercooling. I even tried putting the pump in water with tons of ice cubes unplugged the hose so it could circulate the frigid water through the system, the water was so cold i had to move my hand out of it after a couple seconds, my hoses were cold my waterblock was cold hell even the socket that i could touch "small waterblock" were cold yet, core temp was reading 46c on core 0 and 41c on core 1, and i know people on plain air cooling that are claiming to get temps in the 45-48c range on load.... Now how in the hell could Aircooling get the same temps as my chilled ice watercooling ?? I took the IHS off at no avail the temps didnt change 1C... ITE was reading about 30c load with the chilled temps which is about 70-80F which i can belive but 110-124F on frigid water cold enough to move my hand out how is that possible ??? I belive the thermal DIODE's on these cpu's are poorly calibrated and are off by about 5-10c. Even so You said you were getting 75+c on Core temp 5-10 off that its still way to high and hell my ITE reads 44c load on 1.56v your using 1.45v and getting almost 60c granted its air, but ya good idea to get a new cooler im sure you'll get the 3ghz that im trying to push for.. I just got 2.9ghz stable finally but i can only take pictures and get a PI 1M stable @ 3ghz. Another thing i might add is your PWMIC is insainly hot, so is your chipset. Put a fan on the PWMIC or one over the chipset like see the 80mm fan in the case. If you do this make sure you put a bracket like i have to keep things from getting into the blades. Here the PWMIC is right next to the cpu and it actually makes the board hot to where you need to move youre fingers "which is a telling somthing is 60c+" like half an inch from the actuall cpu socket once i lowerd my PWMIC my cpu temps went down. Also to be honest if you fail after 10+ hours i wouldnt worry about it lol, specially if its on CORE 1, i havent seen anything that honestly uses both core's @ 100% load yet together like orthos does, so i dout you'll ever have a problem. Seems like a power problem 1.31v try 1.35v Hell Im happy with 5 hours stability, im so Impatiant once i get to the 5 hour mark i shut off orthos or prime and just go play games or keep testing further. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlie22911 Posted March 3, 2007 Posted March 3, 2007 the big typhoon should provide plenty of airflow to the PWMIC area, if not i will get a 40mm fan to put on it . something that bothers me though... i did research and the CCBBE and CCB1E are coldbugged . so thats why i crashed:sad: . its a shame, i was being very modest with my application of the "liquid canned air" as to avoid condensation. i also understand that the memory controller is what causes that problem, by overdriving the memory. so maybe i could reduce the drives to help nullify the effect? if my CPU wasn't coldbugged then i would have my heatsink friggin caked in ice instead of a little condensation . Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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