Fluid Xp changing colors ??

[radodrill]

The biocide is for preventative purposes to be added when first filling the loop.

 

With the proper choice of fluids/additives an H2O system can be nearly maintenance free; requiring only the occasional fluid top-off.

 

You should be OK running the sys as-is but be sure to keep an eye on your temps; if you notice that they are getting higher, you should certainly clean out your loop.

[expresso]

thanks - so i guess that fluid isnt worth adding it now

it wont make a difference -- the temps are the same

they havnt changed - just the color of the loop - if its the fluid or the tubbing - i dont know -

i leave it as it is --

 

if the time comes that i have to change it -

 

how do i drain it all out ? is there a way to do it without taking everything apart again ?

 

i hope not to have to do that for a least a few years -

 

thanks

[radodrill]

Assuming that your t-line is connected at the lowest point in your loop; just disconnect the hose from the fill-port and drain the system from there. A lot of people install 2 t-lines; one as a fill-port and the other as a drain-port.

[expresso]

 

 

this is my system --

 

how would i drain it with out taking everything apart

[radodrill]

 

 

this is my system --

 

how would i drain it with out taking everything apart

 

You can pull the hose w/ the fill-port out the side and open the fill-port and let the fluid drain into a sink. To get the H2O out of the GFX block simply remove the GFX card (W/ the WB still attached and hold it higher than the CPU WB. The only thing is you may have to unmount the RAD (you can leave the tubing attached) and invert it so that all the water flows out.

 

p.s. once the majority of the fluid is drained it's easy to remove some of the tubing to aid in getting the rest of the H2O out.

p.s.s. those snap-clamps really provide an excellent seal so you can remove/reinstall the tubing w/o worrying about leaks.

 

BTW nice rig

[expresso]

i was afraid of that - taking out the Rad part -

 

what if i run the pump with nothing connected to the board

and the fillport tube leaning down into something --

would that work if i need to drain it ?

 

the way i mounted the Rad in the Front is a bit of pain to remove - i have it with velco on the bottom of the Rad to the case and Velco on top of the Rad to the Dvd rom

and its very tight - to remove it - i would have to remove the Dvd rom that sits on top of the Rad with Velco -

 

the snaps that hold the tubbing is very strong - i am sure i can reuse those unless they break if i have to remove them --

 

but if the problem is with the tubbing - then i have to drain it and replace the tubbing - which i think is crazy because its only 3 months max since i put this together

 

and if it can get discolored in 3 months - it just isnt worth replacing anything -- unless theres a leak or the temps are being affected from the fluid etc. --

 

so i guess i am out of luck - i have to just leave it - and hope the temps are not affected -- at least i know how red looks now -

 

if i add more dye in the loop - would that help ?

and is it ok to add more dye in the loop -

 

i added a few drops when adding the fluid for the first time only - thats it

 

 

thanks

[ReelFiles]

I've used Fluid XP before with no problem. Redo the tubing if you want and don't add any dye to it, I have a feeling that's the culprit.

[radodrill]

I've used Fluid XP before with no problem. Redo the tubing if you want and don't add any dye to it, I have a feeling that's the culprit.

 

Yeah; probably the FluidXP + Dye is what did it in.

Stick with either FluidXP or H2O + Coolant + Dye if you decide to replace the liquid and clean/replace the tubing.

 

The snap clamps will come off relatively easily; just raise the outer "finger" then the middle one (with the teeth) and it'll open.

 

Replacing the tubing may be a Bi*** but I really think it's worth it.

[expresso]

thanks for all the input - most likely its the dye i added to the fluid xp - stupid move - but now its done - my loop is all Red -- i have another guestion -

 

if leaving it the way it is now - would that damage anything - the parts etc. - ? at this point - i dont want to replace anything unless i have to - i dont mind the red color - it just dosnt glow now -

 

when ever i have to replace it - i wont add the dye anymore - but now i did it -

 

is it ok to leave it as is now ?

 

thanks

[radodrill]

thanks for all the input - most likely its the dye i added to the fluid xp - stupid move - but now its done - my loop is all Red -- i have another guestion -

 

if leaving it the way it is now - would that damage anything - the parts etc. - ? at this point - i dont want to replace anything unless i have to - i dont mind the red color - it just dosnt glow now -

 

when ever i have to replace it - i wont add the dye anymore - but now i did it -

 

is it ok to leave it as is now ?

 

thanks

 

Should be ok to run it as-is.

 

If/when you replace the tubing I'd recommend using distilled H2O + Zerex (or other engine coolant) + UV dye (engine coolant leak detector).

[expresso]

thanks - i keep that in mind for when i replace the tubing

 

i dont think just draining the fluid would work - because i think the tubbing also wont be as clear if i just drain it -

 

i replace the tubing also when the time comes to do that and just use water and zerex like you said - but the uv dye would be ok to use with the water and zerex ? also should i add a few drops of that other stuff biocide ? that i was given a link to on this post with the water , zerex and uv dye ?

 

thanks

[radodrill]

and just use water and zerex like you said - but the uv dye would be ok to use with the water and zerex ? also should i add a few drops of that other stuff biocide ? that i was given a link to on this post with the water , zerex and uv dye ?

 

H2O + Zerex + UV dye works just fine in my rig; just be sure the dye is for H2O based coolant (i.e. engine coolant leak detector).

 

Adding Biocide wouldn't hurt but isn't necessary.