Fluid Xp changing colors ??

[expresso]

Hi - i put my first WC setup together almost 3 months ago and i used Fluid Xp - green with a few drops of the Green dye - it worked find - was very green and glowed great under the UV light - but now - its all red in my loop ?

 

it started slowly about 3 weeks ago and its all red now - not green anymore and really dosnt glow either any longer -

everything is red - except at the very tip of the loop that is on the way out is green for a inch or so - then all read -

 

the loop going in the Cpu is red - the loop coming out of the Cpu is green for about a inch and then all red --

 

the loop going in the video is red and the loop coming out of the video is green for a inch or soo - then all red going into the Rad -- then the loop coming out of the rad is Green for a inch or so - then red going into the pump and the loop coming out of the pump is a little green for a inch and then all red --

 

 

the only loop that is green is the fill port still - thats still all green --

 

this is very strange -- has anyone had this issue and what caused it - ?

 

the temps havnt been affected - all seems the same as before --

 

i emailed DD - Dano -- and havnt recevied a answer - since i purchased everything from DD - including the Fluid Xp which was highly recommended -

 

i just hope what ever it is dosnt damage my parts now -

 

any ideas ? -- i have no leaks and everything seems to be ok and working the same as the first day --

 

 

thanks

[radodrill]

My guess would be that there is dust/mildew/rust, etc that has settled to the walls of the tubing. The "jets" at the outlets of the WB, pump, and rad would reduce the effects of settling right at the outlets.

Either you got some dirt/dust into the fluid when filling your rig; or your WBs may be made of dissimilar metals that are reacting with the fluid and producing rust in the fluid.

[expresso]

that dosnt sound too good to me -- i cleaned out the Rad before it was installed - everything was brand new --

and i dont think i got anything inside when i filled it with a syringe thru the fillport - -- i was careful and everything was clean --

 

do you know of this happening to anyone before ?

 

at this point - is this going to damage my parts ?

 

or could it be that the green dye i added to the fluid xp could have casued a change in color somehow - maybe they react differently when combined - ?

 

i really dont know since this is my first time - i am just guessing --

 

either way - is my system safe this way now -

i am not looking to start over thats for sure -

[radodrill]

at this point - is this going to damage my parts ?

 

The parts should be OK.

If you have both copper and aluminum based WBs; then I'd suggest replacing some so that they're all made of the same metal.

 

or could it be that the green dye i added to the fluid xp could have casued a change in color somehow - maybe they react differently when combined - ?

 

Since the FluidXP is also H2O based there shouldn't be any issues with mixing the UV dye with it.

 

either way - is my system safe this way now -

i am not looking to start over thats for sure -

 

The sys should be fine as-is; however, I'd recommend cleaning/flushing the WB's, RAD, pump, and fittings; as well as clean/replace the tubing.

[Jarman]

There should be no "settling" as FluidXP contains an inhibiter that should stop anything from growing (at least in the short term). The problems you will get though are that if you are using a UV light, this will promote growth of organics and you will have to maintain your system as a result. If you are using UV light and dye i would suggest using a concentrated biocide in the mix which is available from w/c shops.

 

The best thing you can use imo (which is what i use) is a de-ionised water (battery water), ethylene glycol mix (active ingredient in anti freeze, very good inhibiter). I use mobil anti freeze as its a premium A/F and i can use less in the mix which keeps the heat transfer coeffiecient up (~15%.) Its also good to try and keep all metals in the loop the same to avoid setting up a potential difference (battery in effect). If using Al and Cu in a loop use 20% inhibiter Another thing to do is use non-clear tube ie. a tube where you cannot pysically see the liquid, this will keep organic growth to a minimum.

 

Is the red build up on the tubes or has the fluid itself turned red?

[radodrill]

Is the red build up on the tubes or has the fluid itself turned red?

 

Based upon expresso's description I'd say that it is a buildup on the walls of the tubing; rather than the fluid changing color.

The sediments are settling where the laminar flow is established (turbulent in the components and near the outlets). The fact that the fill-port line is clear of sediments indicates that the sediments are being produced in the cooling loop; quite possibly due to dissimilar metals for the WBs.

 

I personally use a mix of ~93% distilled H2O, ~7% Zerex engine coolant, and ~1-2ml UV dye.

[Jarman]

you use a very low amount of inhibiter then. So you obviously have all the same metals in the loop. Id still use more personally, i have Cu blocks and an Al rad so 15% does me nicely. Also the barbs are stainless steel so its nice to have a little something in there to ensure no galvanic corrosion.

[radodrill]

you use a very low amount of inhibiter then. So you obviously have all the same metals in the loop. Id still use more personally, i have Cu blocks and an Al rad so 15% does me nicely. Also the barbs are stainless steel so its nice to have a little something in there to ensure no galvanic corrosion.

 

My Swiftech WBs are copper based and the Black Ice series radiators I use have a copper core; so all similar metals.

The label on the Zerex lists a 5/95 mix with distilled H2O. Different brands of coolant probably require different mixes based upon their concentration.

[expresso]

whow - i wish someone or DD would have told me all this before hand - i was told that i didnt have to do anything but use Fluid Xp and it could last years - up to 5 years

you wouldnt have to change it etc. -- thats what DD told me --

 

about the different metals with the blocks - i didnt know that made any difference either - i got everything brand new from DD -- everything is in my Sig -

 

being that the fluid is UV active - i would think anyone would use a UV light - or else why even bother with the UV actie fluid -- if i knew that the UV ligth would cause something to the fluid or build up of anything - maybe i would have changed course and used something else -

 

i picked Fluid Xp because i was told there was nothing to do to it once you fill it - thats it - unless of course - you get a leak etc. - then you would have to fix that and do it over somehow --

 

this is just a few months old - i am not looking to take it apart to clean the loop ? how would i clean the loop ?

 

i used tygone tubing being that it was said to be the best

 

at first - i wanted to get the Red Fluid Xp and was told not to because it didnt glow as much and someone said on here that it was bad -- so i got the green since DD told me thats the best one -- and now i ended up with the Red color anyway - but it dosnt glow now --

 

what would happen if i added a few more drops of the Green dye i have ?

 

when i get a chance - i will post some pics of how it is now - compared to how it was at first -- i already posted pics after i was done --

 

 

so bottom line is what for me ?

 

is it ok to leave it as it - or will this damage my parts ?

 

i belieave the blocks i am using are both copper -

 

thanks for the information here --

 

maybe there should be a guide as to what to expect if you WC --

 

what should i expect now from my new DD parts and WC setup -?

 

 

thanks

[radodrill]

Your WBs and RAD are all copper based so there shouldn't be an issue in that respect.

 

It may be possible that the dyes are separating out of the FluidXP; or the FluidXP itself is reacting w/ something resulting in the buildup.

The reason why FluidXP and the like are often recommended is because it isn't necessary to add anything to it; just pour it into your system. One main reason I opted for an H2O/coolant mix was that it is less expensive than the others and works just as well.

 

The tubing can be cleaned with a test-tube cleaner and liquid dish soap; but it may be easier to replace it. No matter how you do it, cleaning the system will require you to disassemble it.

[Jarman]

could try the concentrated biocide idea

 

http://www.petrastechshop.com/pepcobi1.html only $2.50. Just dont drink the stuff

[expresso]

thanks - i wont be cleaning any tubing if i have to take it apart - that would be stupid IMO - would be easier to just replace it - its only a few dollars - so if i had to do that - i would replace it -- but i wont be taking it apart so i guess it will stay Red

 

the other solution that was posted - to try

 

 

Petra'sTech "PT_Nuke" Concentrated Biocide (10mL)

 

 

how would i use that - do i just pour it in the loop - from the fill port ?

 

i am not looking to take anything apart - everything is connected very well and no leaks -

 

the finaly reason that made me try WC was the fact that i though i wouldnt have to do anything after the setup is done -- if i knew i had to clean this and flush that - and mix all kinds of things to make it clear and keep it clean etc .. i would have gotten a fish tank if i wanted to do work -- i spent over $400 dollars - i wasnt looking for a job --

 

its done now - and i like how the case is clean inside and roomy -- not sure how i would do it the next time around and not sure if i will use DD either -- i havnt heard back from them about this issue -

 

so bottom line for me is what ?

 

is it ok to leave it as is ?

 

thanks