Paperclips and PSU's?

[Thasp]

I did it the ghetto way when testing my loop, I just sucked the water up through the pump (with mouth) then switched it on lolol.

 

The whole point of turning the pump on and off quickly is to get water into it, have it go through the system, then refill res and continue. How does sucking water up through the pump do this? You can do the same thing by turning it on.

[cuoficr]

i bought a 5 dollar psu jumper from frozencpu cuz i got tired of using a paperclip (i know a paperclip is free, but it gets old)

 

24 pin http://www.frozencpu.com/products/5141/psu...ml?tl=g11c28s88

20 pin http://www.frozencpu.com/products/3223/psu...ml?tl=g11c28s88

[Guest Timmay]

The whole point of turning the pump on and off quickly is to get water into it, have it go through the system, then refill res and continue. How does sucking water up through the pump do this? You can do the same thing by turning it on.

 

 

Because I was only testing my block and pump, and because I was using the sink (RE: Ghetto) the pump wasn't sucking the water up... So I did it for it

[Coors]

I have a spare motherboard so I just hooked my psu up to it sitting next to my computer and only had the pump hooked up to the spare mobo. Makes it a lot easier.

[ReelFiles]

Paperclips work fine for me. I just installed a second PSU in my case, just some crap 200W mini unit from an old Pentium III rig, but it's good enough for my fans and lights. I cut the clip to be about 5/8" to 3/4" long then bent it with two pliers, so it isn't all messed up looking. That way none of the metal sticks out far from the connector, finished it up with a nice layer of electrical tape around the whole connector, since this is pretty much permanent. Now all I need is some sort of setup to start the second PSU in tandem with the first one.

[Gipse]

i bought a 5 dollar psu jumper from frozencpu cuz i got tired of using a paperclip (i know a paperclip is free, but it gets old)

 

24 pin http://www.frozencpu.com/products/5141/psu...ml?tl=g11c28s88

20 pin http://www.frozencpu.com/products/3223/psu...ml?tl=g11c28s88

 

I am using this tool too. It was a free gift when I ordered my wc-setup. Very easy!

Gipse

[Fatal2bU]

Thank you all for your imputs... as usual, this is the most informal and opinionated forums on the web... simply the best.

 

Installation was long... somewhat tedious. Placing the smartcoils over the tubing was anything but easy to do and I bruised my thumb securing the damn clips that came with the kit. The Thermaltake Armor already has 4 holes on the back plate to pass tubing through... problem is, they are the same size as the tubing and thus, need to be enlargened. I didn't have the equipment nor the patience to wait to mod the holes so I got creative and removed my lower hard drive cage which is being unused, removed the 120mm fan off it and actually installed my rad in the front of the tower.

 

Not a common installation from what I've seen but it does look pretty cool with the rad in the front... with the loss of about 6x 5 1/4 bays but hey, they're not in use either at the moment so...

 

After all is said and done... after a quick OCCT or 2, I'm looking at a drop of approximately 15 degrees right now under load ( approx 39 degrees now ) after jumping from 2.61 to a flat out 2.7Ghz.

 

I am also aware that my AS5 takes roughly 100 hours to settle so all in all, I am quite satisfied with the cooling unit and would expect it to be even more efficient using some higher quality blocks such as Danger Dans.

 

The PSU jump was a breeze... being my first time I just wanted confirmation to keep my mind at ease during the procedure.

 

When I get a chance I'll show it off with a few picks... but first, I'm hoping to hit the 3Ghz club this weekend

 

Quick observations after water installation....

 

CPU temps are down about 15 degrees ( yay! )

 

PWMIC is still about the same... running about 55 under load with stock fan and the same with the water cooling, it even hit 56 once so I am assuming that a CPU on air helps cool the sensor somewhat.

 

Chipset seems to have also lowered a tad bit... from 53 or so under load and I haven't seen it go over 49 yet... Gave it a quick spary of air but thats it. I reseated the chipset fan about a month ago and applied some new goo... perhaps the goo is simply starting to settle in?

 

Thanks again peeps

[radodrill]

Paperclips work fine for me. I just installed a second PSU in my case, just some crap 200W mini unit from an old Pentium III rig, but it's good enough for my fans and lights. I cut the clip to be about 5/8" to 3/4" long then bent it with two pliers, so it isn't all messed up looking. That way none of the metal sticks out far from the connector, finished it up with a nice layer of electrical tape around the whole connector, since this is pretty much permanent. Now all I need is some sort of setup to start the second PSU in tandem with the first one.

 

Here's an easy way of starting the second PSU with the first: use a 12V relay; connect the coil to the 12V line of a molex connector on the first PSU and connect the NO contact of the "switch" across the GND and control leads of the second PSU.

[ReelFiles]

Cool, doesn't sound too complicated. Do you know of any picture guides?

Sorry for the off-topic spam.

[HITandRUN]

Here's an easy way of starting the second PSU with the first: use a 12V relay; connect the coil to the 12V line of a molex connector on the first PSU and connect the NO contact of the "switch" across the GND and control leads of the second PSU.

 

Yup! That's the way to do it!

[Blaise]

Hmmm... I had some old 400W yum-cha (no name) PSU lying around so I simply set it up with a loop of insulated wire in the appropriate pins - permanently. It has a rocker switch so I just toggle the switch for instant power goodness. I'm sure most of us would have one of these PSU's floating around in the spare parts box so it shouldn't be difficult. In addition, I don't have to unplug any components from my rig's PSU to do this except for the pump's molex connection.