That was a pretty lightshow

[Guest YuKoN]

Between yellow and gnd; you should get either a N/C or a high resistance reading.

 

Using an Ohmmeter is basically the same as doing a continuity check. Most DMMs have a continuity setting (often depicted W/ a speaker symbol); when the leads are connected across 2 points that are short-circuited, the DMM beeps.

 

correct- between the yellows and blacks(psu off and unplugged from mobo/peripherals, continuity check uses low 1.5v battery power). between those you should get no reading, or very small one. a high reading or "I" for infinity(and a beep) would indicate a short. i'll bring my dmm home tomorrow and test a brand new Antec earthpower 430w psu just to give you some readings you can compare to.(btw antec is for an 2.26 celeron system that i'm putting together for my 3 yr old, don't be too hard on me lol). it's a very useful function of the dmm- you can also verify that each black has continuity to case ground.

 

doesn't hurt to check these things-

[Guest YuKoN]

Ok first off sorry for the late reply- busy and got stuck working all weekend, and I forgot to bring my DMM home. Brought it today- unplugged all leads from within the case. but I did leave the psu in the case for chassis ground. you can use the psu casing if not in a case.

 

Here's the readings I got, Yours may vary, but should be similar.

 

all three grounds read the same.

1.from blacks to chassis on continuity: Infinity. as it should be.

2.from blacks to yellows on continuity: beep and settles at .315

3.from blacks to yellows on 2k ohms: .146

4.same readings from yellows to chassis. .146 as it should be.

 

any combination above should be constant- no matter which of the blacks and/or the yellows you choose- and the blacks should always be the same as chassis ground.

 

not sure if this helps you- but maybe someone will gain something from it.

[General Septem]

Well, I already sent the old card back, but thanks. I did do some continuity tetsting (I forget what I did now but I know I was happy with the result). What I'm going to do is get a new card. Right now I want that X1950XTX but who knows what I'll want once I have ~$500 to spare. And if that one blows up too, I'll send it back for a replacement and just buy a new PSU while I'm there.

 

As for the HR-03, I'll probably make a bracket out of acrylic glass and use it on the 6600GT. That's the card I bought it for anyway; the stock cooling on most other cards is pretty decent.

[Guest YuKoN]

you're probably just as well to wait for dx10 cards anyways. I went out $350 when I bought my 7900 GT SC- and right away out came the 7950 and 8800 series. I'll make do with that until dx10 is out. better to save your pennies- you'll spend $500 and then be out that money when you want to upgrade again...... in barely a few months.

[Guest erico]

Actually the symbol is not a speaker (LOL) it is the OHM symbol ( Ω ) and the Ohm is named after a German Physicist named Georg Simon Ohm.

Ohm's Law is I=E/R and algebraic rearrangement of the formula will allow you to solve for a missing value in a electrical/electronic circuit

 

General Septem: this is one of many things you will learn in your Electronics course

[General Septem]

you're probably just as well to wait for dx10 cards anyways. I went out $350 when I bought my 7900 GT SC- and right away out came the 7950 and 8800 series. I'll make do with that until dx10 is out. better to save your pennies- you'll spend $500 and then be out that money when you want to upgrade again...... in barely a few months.

 

Yeah, I probably will. I'll probably get an R600 or whatever the new generation ATI cards are. I was leaning towards nVidia for a long time but I'm starting to be more impressed by ATI. Plus they've got GDDR4 which nVidia doesn't have. Maybe it's just me but at this point I'd only go back to nVidia if I don't like ATI or if I wanted SLI, which I don't see happening as two 7900GTXs isn't as good as one 8800GTX.

[Guest erico]

So some of you saw my last thread where my rig wouldn't boot up with my 7950GT in it. The PSU actually wouldn't supply power to the rig, even trying both PCIe connectors and even trying it once without the connector. That card got RMAd for a replacement.

 

Just to recap, that card actually did boot until I replaced the stock cooler with the Thermalright HR-03. I don't know why it did not boot after I installed it but something must have happened.

Could have been a quantity issue when you put on the AS5 or whatever TIM that you used. Too much TIM is not a good thing! You might want try Ceramique next time but still use small quantities. Too much TIM means making a path of low resistance between electrical/electronic components and can equal setting the electrons free in a manner that you don't want. Kind of like in old Mork and Mindy show (setting the eggs free to the floor).

[General Septem]

Could have been a quantity issue when you put on the AS5 or whatever TIM that you used. Too much TIM is not a good thing! You might want try Ceramique next time but still use small quantities. Too much TIM means making a path of low resistance between electrical/electronic components and can equal setting the electrons free in a manner that you don't want. Kind of like in old Mork and Mindy show (setting the eggs free to the floor).

 

Actually I did use Ceramique and I dind't get it all over the place too much. There was some on the capacitors that I couldn't get off, but I don't think that was causing it.

 

I'm surprised (and glad) Newegg took it back though.

[radodrill]

Actually the symbol is not a speaker (LOL) it is the OHM symbol ( Ω ) and the Ohm is named after a German Physicist named Georg Simon Ohm.

Ohm's Law is I=E/R and algebraic rearrangement of the formula will allow you to solve for a missing value in a electrical/electronic circuit

 

General Septem: this is one of many things you will learn in your Electronics course

 

I said that the continuity check is indicated W/ a speaker on most DMMs. Yes, resistance is indicated by Ohms Ω.

[rocketmanj210]

I doubt it was the alcohol prepping; I have used those and never had a problem. I haven’t changed the stock heat sink on my 7950 though.

 

I have had problems with ASUS before, the 6800 that I had ran way too hot for what it should have been running, and it never worked right. (Although I believe that was because of an ASUS motherboard)