Marthax Posted March 22, 2006 Posted March 22, 2006 Hello everybody! Yes, as the thread says, my computer shuts down approx. 5-6 seconds after that I've pushed the power on button. I just finished my WC'ing setup (I upgraded my CPU block with the Apogee) and when I turned on my computer, I had this problem. Everything seems to be going on and powered when suddenly, the computer shuts down. This is always at almost exactly the same time. You can see the LEDS in the bottom left corner switching over to 3->2->1->4 red lighted, when it shuts off (it shuts down immediately when it reaches the state where the 4 LEDS are lighted). This though, only happends the first time when I try to turn on the computer because if I try it again directly after, the LEDS turn 3 and then 4 and then it shuts off. The only thing that is connected to the PSU at the moment is GPU (via the PCI-E) and the mobo (4 connectors). I've been using my computer with these components for approx. 2-3 months and I've never gotten this problem. I'd really appreciate some help from you guys. Thanks in advance! Marthax Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
petrus66 Posted March 22, 2006 Posted March 22, 2006 Problems came just after changing your prosessor cooling? It seems the temperatures are mayby raising at startup and the overheat protection is shutting your system down? I suggest you carefully check out that your installation of the waterblock is done in a proper way. Unmount the waterblock and clean gently the surface of the waterblock with some electronic cleaning agent (Isopropyl alcohol) to remove remains of the thermal paste. Check that nothing is sticked to the surface, often a plastic sticker is protecting the surface from getting scratced. If so, remove it. Gently clean the surfacy of the CPU too from remaining old thermal paste. Use SOFT paper cleaners or similar with the cleaning alcohol. Be sure that no colour or rests of fibre are getting to the surfases. Time to apply some thermal paste again, here's one solution to do it: http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_silver_instructions.htm Check and re-check that the watersink is straight to its right position and alligned as is should. Google for some installation hints and close-up pictures from product homepage and other reviews. Check also that the vaterpump is running and theres nothing that could block the circulation of the cooling liquid. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marthax Posted March 22, 2006 Posted March 22, 2006 Ok, I'll check out that. Although the funny thing is that when my old WB was mounted not correctly and thereby making poor contact with the CPU, the computer did turn on and I went into BIOS only to see high temps, which of course made me turn it off. Oh well, I guess I don't have another choice. Thanks for the advice, I'll post back as soon as possible. If anyone else has some suggestions as a solution, don't hesitate. EDIT: Well, it turns out that the block wasn't making contact with the CPU at all because when I lifted up the block, the surface didn't have even the slightest amount of compound on it. I tried to press it manually against the CPU and I noticed that no matter how hard I press, the block won't contact the CPU because of those nylon spacers that I got along with the Apogee. My question is, can I mount the block without those spacers? Will it work? So the cmos won't even post? No and according to the statement above, that's very good. Otherwise, my CPU would be toast. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
krazypoloc Posted March 22, 2006 Posted March 22, 2006 So the cmos won't even post? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Virus1_2 Posted March 22, 2006 Posted March 22, 2006 have you tried a diffranet PSU? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marthax Posted March 22, 2006 Posted March 22, 2006 no, but as it turns out the block was the one to blame as it didn't make any contact with the CPU becuase of those plastic spacers that came with the apogee. I'm gonna file them down a bit now and is if that does it. Any other ideas? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marthax Posted March 22, 2006 Posted March 22, 2006 I managed to get it to run by using 2 studs and 2 wingnuts to tighten down the block. The problem was that those 2 wingnuts didn't tighten down the block enough, so I removed them and replaced them with some regular nuts. The funny thing now is that I can't get my computer to turn on. I must be missing something, but I just can't seem to see it. I have all my power connectors connected because I've checked this 3-4 times. When I turn on the power to the PSU, the Yellow LED at the bottom left corner turns on with a bright light, but shortly after goes down to a very very weak stream o light. The DRAM LED is not lighted, which means that something's gotta be messed up. Whatta hel could it be? The only thing I've done is to replace the wingnuts with regular ones. :confused: I don't get it. Please help. What could be wrong? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daddyjaxx Posted March 22, 2006 Posted March 22, 2006 It is possible that since there was zero contact with the block, that you could have fried the CPU. It takes much less time for a CPU to fry at startup before the BIOS can take over to shut it down. How many times did you try to start the system up before it shut down? 1.65 V on a Venice with no cooling...not good. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marthax Posted March 22, 2006 Posted March 22, 2006 Ok, my CPU is NOT fried because as I said it WORKED when I used the wingnuts, only that I had approx 48C BIOS temperature. Before that, when it didn't work, I started up my computer a lot of times, but the overheat protection got activated and that's why my computer shut down. It takes much less time for a CPU to fry at startup before the BIOS can take over to shut it down You're a Ultra-D owner so you should know that the overheat protection kicks in long before BIOS. And at the moment, since I cleared my CMOS like 5-6 times, you can figure out what Vcore I'm using, becuase it most certainly isn't 1.65V. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daddyjaxx Posted March 22, 2006 Posted March 22, 2006 Is the four pin power connector connected? I forgot once and it did the same thing. The studs aren't all the way through touching the board on the otherr side shorting it out? Even though I have an Ultra-D, I have never had it shutdown unexpectedly for any reason. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marthax Posted March 22, 2006 Posted March 22, 2006 Is the four pin power connector connected? I forgot once and it did the same thing. The studs aren't all the way through touching the board on the otherr side shorting it out? I have a backplate so that says itself. And yes, the 4 pin connector was correctly connected. I'll double check it again. Even though I have an Ultra-D, I have never had it shutdown unexpectedly for any reason. I know, but I just supposed that if you have this mobo, you know that the overheat protection wouldn't let the CPU get fried if the cooler malfunctioned. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
supraboytt Posted March 22, 2006 Posted March 22, 2006 I know, but I just supposed that if you have this mobo, you know that the overheat protection wouldn't let the CPU get fried if the cooler malfunctioned. Overheat protection was designed to be used when a cpu fan failed, but with the heatsink in place. 5-6 Seconds is a LONG time for a cpu without cooling to be running. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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