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OMG, Made a break through! (sorta)


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i already looked inside, no adjustable POTs that i can see, wish there was.

thats a Vantec ION2 460w, 24pin native with an PCIe conector. also, i powered the PSU on manualy via the atx conector with nothing but a cd-rw hooked up and it was still below 11.5v, i think the rails are low by default, mabye i should find those POTs, warrentys void anyway :).

i think ive found the cause of my problem though:

Chipset.

 

i lower the voltage to 1.6v (1.5v is stock but unavalible in the LPb bios) @ 200x12 1.75vcore and it fails OCCT in 15mins, raise it to max 1.9v and it goes for hours and hours until i stop it. trying at 1.7v chipset right now, bet i damaged something when my chipset heatsink fell off...

im going to google voltmods for PSUs and do some testing since i have a DMM i can have fun with. while we are on DMMs, my DMM reads pretty much the exact same voltages that the bios, speedfan etc readout, execpt for the -12v and -5v...

 

hey neo, just saw your post ( i always read posts in reverse :tooth:).

i did do a complete redo of chipset cooling, old passive pentium 166 MMX cpu heatsink for the northe bridge, old NB heatsink on the south bridge. my grandma has come in my room and asked if something is burning but i never noticed it, even when i first come home and my sences are fresh. the caps i will check in a moment, cant redo the cpu cooling as im out of paste and cant afford more as i need a new keyboard (ESC, F1, F2, CTRL, ALT and TAB went out, old KB anyhow, makes working in cmos a B**** as i have to F10 at each menu :angry:) and i dont even have enough for that yet. cpu fan is fine, it is realy warm in my room, cant do nothing about that. im stable @ 200x12, prolly server class stable (run it 247 at that, game etc and no problems yet, havnt rebooted for a min of 2 weeks until a couple of days ago). my ram is not a problem im sure, its G.Skill PC4400LE Samsung TCCD rated for 277Mhz @ 2.5-3-3-7 timings on a brainpower PCB. ive tried diff slots etc and still a no go... im memtest stable all the way up to 270Mhz FSB, but windows craps out before the user screen even appears. im going to clock it back up to 260x10 and max everything out, see what the temps do, ive already sinked all the mosfets, they still get pretty warm though. also i noticed my X800XT dont overclock worth crap anymore either, used to do 560Mhz core 630Mhz mem, now it hard locks if i even push it to 520 core, ram dont matter, it clocks the same. i will post back with my findings from the caps in a bit...

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Neo's right about psu smell when they are goin' out. (Ozone smell)

Another sign it maybe overloading is really hot air comming out of the exhaust.(Side off case of course)

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well, overclocked to 250x10, 2v core 100Mhz AGP 1.8v agp 2.9v chipset with all fans 100%, didnt smell a thing, no leaky ar even slightly warm caps, nothing. only slightly warm air from the psu with 4HDD, 2 CD-RW, X800XT plus the above settings... so im still stuck, i think the POTs just need adjusting or my chipset is turning into a pile of chicken noodle soup... well, now what, ive de dusted everything while i was at it, thought i saw a massive discoloration on the rear of the AGP slot but turns out it was a shadow cast by a dangling power conector for the GFX...

 

guess my rig is getting old and not as able as it once was, more so when you look at what i put her through, just look at all the cpus i smashed as an example :). im not giving up though, im gonna keep at it until either

 

A. it gives in and obeays my every request like a cheap HO should, or

 

B. it dies a flaming horrible death.

 

:sweat:

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Yeah if you guys can find some step by step stuff for modding a psu to have adjustable rails I'm all ears and wanna hear it :).

 

I want to mod my enermax 350, for my drives.

It's a goot little psu, but the rails are'nt adjustable and I know everything would do a bit better if I up'ed them a bit and maybe lowered the +5v rail I dn.

The rails are normally around 11.8 and 5.2 on this thing.

 

 

Charlie22911, that low of a rail for the +12 can't be good, 11.5 and under.

 

 

Last month, jsut before I had to tear apart my ocz powerstreamm 600w'er, I was over a buddies.

He noticed a smell, he did'nt tell me what it smelt like though.

I disregarded it :.

 

When I 1st got the psu though I noticed a smell like I described in the previose post, and so did my mom when she came busting into my room like she allways does ^^.

 

So you can't allways realy on yourself to smell it.

Even if you normally could, you may of gotten used to it when it happens.

 

 

Anyways when I checked out my ocz more closely, on the +12v rail spliiter pcb.

I saw a cap that hadleaked silver,in themiddle.

I noticed it because the middle looked a little bumpy.

When I put my finger on it and rubbed it, the tip of my finger was silver.

When I took a look at all the other eletrolyte caps(the ones with crosses and other designes in the top, in the middle), they leaked as well.

just that they had silver at the edges of the plastic.

They probably leaked, and soaked into the plastic casing lol, sorta trying to hide it's self...

 

All the electroyte ones leaked on that pcb though, none of the ceramic ones seemed bad.

After I tore off the pcb and wired itdirectly to the main +12v rail(where it's adjustable, and where the 2 +12v rail came from(they come form the pcb)).

Well anyways where the pchb gets it's +12v power, I hooked my atx and p4 plugings directly into.

I had to re-adjsu the rails a tiny tiny bit, but all was good.

I did without a dmm because I traded mine a while back for some mobo's and another mobile(but a 1100mhz one, old sucker).

Celeron, etc, all that.

The dmm and my ceramic when for the trade...

 

Anyways all is ok for now anyways.

That's my story :.

 

 

In the end, the caps ocz used man, I would be careful of that psu maker...

I think some of theose caps were fake because I got the atasheets, and there's multible brands in here right...

Well, out of each brand, there's a few that are'nt in any datasheet.

The big teapo's are'nt.

Maybe all the GL's are'nt, one I need to look at closer when I pull it to get the rest of the specs off.

 

Oh yeah, the GL's.

Not a real cap company lmao.

It's a front like thing.

The redo the plastic covering on the caps from a company called elna.

GL is an american consulting company or something..., from there I got the info they repackage ELNA caps and market them as there own.

 

Fuhjyyu's, these TMR's, there is no datasheet.

I know where the data sheets are and all, but there is no suppose TMR cap.

Maybe it's called something diff now, I dn.

But this all together is just to fishy.

 

So..

If you can find exact steps to mod a psu to make adjustable rails man, I won't ever buy ocz psu's again :), that's for damned sure.

 

 

Edit:

playah

I think that page will do :).

I got some vr's, I dn if they'll wok or what condition they are in, they're from a lame mtx car amp that did'nt work.

It's got a ton of them.

I allready tore the coils from it for the ferrite beads.

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Inside the TTGI psu there is a little pot that adjust both 12v + 5v rails ,if I hadn't read about it,I might have missed it.

 

2nd picture down shows it clearly and it's coated in some kind of plastic.

 

http://www.extremeoverclocking.com/reviews...an_Image_5.html

 

The obligatory warning here about poking around inside psu's,there can be a lot of juice still stored inside,even if unplugged.I did do some research 1st on what not to touch and how to discharge some of the juice.

 

If you do a little research,there's quite a bit out there on Vsense mods and adding pots to psu's

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sadly for me, i have absolutly no soddering skills, nor the money to buy the toolsreplace dead parts if something goes wrong, its not easy being 17 with no solid income... i will do what i can, poke around and see if there is a POT that may be covered, mabye i will get it lucky and get away easy. i just completed 5hr30min worth of 3dmark01se @ 200x12.5 1.875vcore (1.85v wont do), cpu fan only at 7v and heatsink only slighty warm. i think my memcontroller may be part of this as well, its never OC the same after the chipset heatsink fell off... no telling how lon it had been running, always leave it at 1.9v as its slightly more stable for me, con only imagine the heat with no cooling on there.

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ok, looked through my PSU, no leaky, stinky caps and no POTs either. everything appears to be normal. im stable at 200x12.5 1.875v with my fan at 7v (for quietness), ran a super long science mark 2 test as well as gamed in halo and UT2k4 and NFSUG2 all morning (from 7:30am to 1:57pm) and no problems at all. going to run OCCT and prime95 tonight before bed. after it passes im going to shoot straight for 250x10 again and see what happens.

oh and while im thinking about it, is it normal for a choke to get realy hot? mine does...

 

EDIT:

 

NEO, i was reading through the neo suzuna thread when i noticed you talking about tables @ 250Mhz on the tic tac bios, which is what im using (tic tacs 6/19 XT), LMK when you finish your next updated bios cause im going to flash that and give it a try once youve modded for 250+ fsb :).

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