ricey

The newer Lian Li V1000 cases have 4 screws to remove the divider; however, in my case the divider is rivetted in. I preferred to keep the separate airflow streams to the the HD racks and psu, as I have 6 hard drives. cheers, ricey

Sure, my system would overload my psu if everything ran at the same time, but that doesn't happen. The most intense it gets is playing Doom 3 when both video cards, the raid zero boot hdds, the cpu, the karajan audio, and the chip set are working hard. Not really enough to overwhelm the OCZ 520 powerstream. So, I'm thinking that my pc will be fine when i install the panaflo case fan that I mentioned previously. As it is, my chipset temp maxed at 63 degrees C under load with no chipset fan. If it all goes pear shaped, I'll get a new motherboard but everything is fine atm. ricey

Hi all I finally couldn't handle the noise anymore. I unplugged the chipset fan :eek2: My chipset temp went up from 56-58 C, to 61 C without the case side panel on. When I put the side panel on, the temp dropped to 58 C. So, with no chipset fan, but the Lian Li's case fan extracting hot air, temps are the same. Now, the 120mm Lian Li case fan is a really wimpy thing, so I'm going to replace it with a Panaflo FBK-12G12LH that I have hanging around. This thing moves three times the air that the Lian Li case fan does. It makes a little more noise than the emphysematous Lian Li fan, but not a lot more. Hopefully, this will be all I need to do to keep the chipset temps under control. If not, I will remove the DFI fan and set up an old AMD cpu fan over the heatsink. ricey

thanks for all the suggestions I have re-seated both video cards and they are both not fouling the heatsink. I have checked that there is nothing interfering with the fan and it seems to be good. However, the noise and slow fan speed is still there :sad: I tapped the centre of the with my index finger (hard ) and the noise stopped and the fan sped up to just over 3,000rpm :confused: . 5 minutes later, the noise started again and the fan slowed down to around 2,200rpm :confused: So, as far as I can tell, the fan's bearings are on the way out. I thought these magnetic flotation bearing fans were supposed to last for 50,000 hours, but this one has only been going for 7,320 (10 months, always on). A trick that you used to be able to try with sleeve or ball bearing fans was to peel back the label covering the fan's centre and add a drop of fine machine oil. this often worked to quiet noisy bearings (a friend of mine used a similar method to revive a dead hard drive long enough to recover his data). However, I don't know if it works for these magnetic flotation bearings (I don't know what these are, I just saw that Angry Games called them that in another thread). That would be the most sensible method; I tried to get a replacement chipset heatsink and fan from Nintek, the local supplier of DFI motherboards here in Western Australia but they were not able to help. what would you want for the fan and postage etc? ricey

The moral of this story is to NEVER attempt computer mods before engaging one's brain (or without reading the instructions first; I didn't realise that Arctic Silver adhesive was permanent ). Anyway, I seem to upgrade my motherboard every 18 months or so, so if the heat sink removal goes horribly wrong I will just have to upgrade 10 months earlier than usual lol. I was hoping to upgrade my cpu next, as my current cpu sucks. I'm hoping that the freezer method of removal works as detailed in the links I provided in my first post :confused: . If the heatsink doesn't come off relatively easily, there is no way that I will force it to. There are other ways to solve my problem without snapping my chip set or breaking my motherboard. If I could get hold of a replacement DFI fan, I could just remove the old fan (it is held in by a few phillips head screws) and relace it. Nintek (my local DFI supplier in West Australia couldn't help me with a replacement fan). Maybe I could source a fan from an Australian DFI-streeter who replaced his/her chipset heatsink and fan with something better. Or I could remove the almost dead fan and zip tie a 90mm by 90mm case fan over the general area of the chipset heatsink. As I said, there is no way I'm going to break my board. Yeah? Ever seen a 49 year old man cry? So, wish me luck; if this freezer method works, I'll have a few bragging rights on the Street. ricey

Hi all I lapped the nf4 chipset heatsink on the m/b in my sig, and then I made the bad mistake of using Arctic Silver Adhesive to attach it :sad: Everything went well for 9 months, but now the DFI fan is beginning to die; it makes a lot of grumbling noises and only spins at a slow rate so my chipset temps are 56 C at idle. I've been doing a bit of research into removing heat sinks that have been permanently attached with AS adhesive. Apparently, freezing the motherboard for 3 to 6 hours will make Arctic Silver Adhesive brittle, and then you can just twist off or pry off the heatsink. Here are some references: guru3D LiquidNinjas HardwareKnowledgeBase Has anyone on DFI-street had any success with the freezer method? I really don't want to destroy my motherboard, but I have to fix this problem. TIA, ricey

because Angry says so :angel: Everyone knows that ricey

You have watched a few Monty Python movies, I take it? wicey

Yeah, not too hot at all! well within specs. ricey

Should I wear condoms while having . with girls I picked up while drunk? Do it; SP2 is necessary. ricey

Hey Vector Tensor; r u into schutzhund? ricey

666 ricey

Hi yes, if you also enable SATA II on your hdd using Hitachi's 'f-tool' software, which you can get from the Hitachi web-site. Cheers, ricey

Hi I can't help you with memory timings, but posting pictures is easy lol. the method I use is to subscribe to Photobucket (Photobucket) (it is free ), upload my photos, and then link to them using the 'insert image' button in the tool bar that is above the text box that opens when you compile a message on this forum. Here's a photo linked from Photobucket; all you do is copy the url details listed underneath your photo stored in your Photobucket folder, click on the 'insert image' button and paste the url details into the text field that pops up. cheers, ricey p.s. this way, the photo does not have to be stored on DFI-Street web space. If you want to use the other methods of storing pics on DFI-Street, maximum resolution allowable is (I think) 800 x 600. cheers, ricey

Hi I'd go with what OceanSeasForMe suggests, if it were me doing this After all, 623(3) is an official DFI bios and I figure that you should start with an official bios, even if it is only for warranty purposes. If you then need to play arround with different bios's, do that next Just my $0.02 ricey