B00ne

Well yes you definately should hook your board to a high quality PSU be it a 350W or 650W it all depends on the power you need. A high quality PSU will give you stable voltages across the whole range from 0 - 100% PSU utilization. My post was basically against this "you dont have a minimum of 480W PSU your board will fail" attitude this is often experienced here. As clearly demonstrated not everyone and I'll go out on a limb here: probably most users (especially considering the Ultra-D doesnt do SLI) dont need those 480W, provided they buy high quality (preferrably tested somewhere) PSU

Actually I went from around 50°C to 34-36°C with it - however my air-intake fans are close by PIC

I really wonder why those ultra high power PSUs are recommended always (unless you do SLI) I checked my PC it consumes about 120 Watts in Idle It consumed less than 140W when running quake4, Superpi, beyondtv and donwloading a large file through lan all at the same time (trying to really find the max) Since my PC behaved kinda sluggish doing that, accessing my 2 optical drives was apin in the arse. However that added another 20W for those Sum: 160W Still, merely a third of what is recommeded here. Gonna try how much it needs when overclocking - I doubt it will double The recommended Power Hyperinflation seems kind of silly sometimes - but whatever floats your boat

replace it with this

maybe, however, this is my main computer and I just happen to use it for watching/recording TV too it is not a dedicated HTPC

I am a little out of the memory loop, but I am pretty sure that you need a DDR2 board to use DDR2 and afaik only Intel does DDR2

Well but to be honest it wouldnt bother me if the Temp reading is 60°C because in reality it probably isnt that hot (or is it? cant imagine - havent seen mine above 40°C ever) Anyway - I guess I am getting convinced that I should let it rest and just live on without standby (as I did in the past - build the system last year in Feb.)

I have 512 MB (2x256) Corsair XMS 3200XL (2-2-2-5-1) I have never had a single problem (if you dont count having to set Trcd manually because it defaulted to 3, even though CPU-Z confirmed that SPD timings are 2-2-2-5) Edit: besides the Trcd it was all plug and play for me - of course I dont expect to get 250MHz with such timings My Corsair Ram do those timings without any Voltage change whatsover up to about 215MHZ without Prime errors (for at least 20hrs) I would definately recommend them - other might have different experiences

yeah I already searched, but didnt find anything conclusive. So does that mean I have to live without standby? Because I "need " it - use my PC as HTPC too, so without standby I had to leave the PC running on full 24/7 to not miss shows which are scheduled to be recorded..... Oh btw, I am not overclocking

Hallo, I have some odd standby issues, the main problem is I cant resume from standby. However, the behavior is rather random: Mostly just nothing happens when I press a key move the mouse or press the power button; Sometimes the computer instantly restartet upon moving the mouse or pressing the power button, the keyboard had no effect, and yet again sometimes, the computer would seem to power up but not resume (fans started, the optical drives were powered [the light came on and I could open the tray] dunno if the HD powerd up too - it's rather quiet) Anyway the end result was the same: no resume/wake up Hibernating does work. I checked in the hardware properties and yes the keyboard and mouse are set to wake the system from standby and all hardware does support at S1 and S3 (shown in Details). Just to counter the inevitable comments toward the power supply. The power supply is fine: it may not be the in most users realms well known taiwanese or US brands. However it is a a very high quality and high efficiency ATX 2.1and 2.2 compliant power supply from a german manufacturer that has earned high praises in its target market (Europe/Germany) Even if it is 470W, the requirement wasnt 480 when I built this PC for once, second the 10W wont make a difference especially since many generic 500 or 600W rated power supplies wouldnt even handle 400W real world power. If anyone has some hints toward getting stndby to work i would be grateful.

I also have the Zalman NB cooler installed, it was easy I removed a few fins and bend a a few for additional clearance. The temeprature dropped considerably as well as the noise. However I do have some fans installed (2x80mm exhaust, 1x92 + 1x120mm intake, they all move slow (>1000rpm) hence it is very quite. Except PWMIC nothing is ever above 45°C even with 30+°C room temp.

I am not using it at low Volts, I have quite a few fans in my system, and one 120mm intake fan is connected to the PSUs temp. regulated fan connectors. When the system is running this connector provides about 7V (depending on the PSU temp) this is enough for my intents and purposes. However this fan connector of the PSU has the added benefit that the fan continues to run for some time after system shut down but then only at 4-5 V all other fans are regulated according to temp by smartguardian. in my system 1 have 2 intake fans (120+92mm) , 2 80mm exhaust fans plus the fan(s) (there are 2) in the PSU(which are equally slow moving as the 120mm intake connected to the PSU) - hence the name of the PSU "be-quiet" my system is almost inaudible in normal operating mode and only making a slight whoosh if I turn every fan on max (plus a little whine from the Zalman VF700ALCu) I exchanged the chipset stock cooler with a Zalman NB47 (passive) CPU has an XP120 with the another Papst120mm on top

Dont worry I have my CPU Papst connected to the mobo, either way at 3 Volts the fan would probably not even generate a gentle breeze. I just stated the 3 Volts to indicate that you can regulate rpm over an exceptionally broad range of speeds with them... The other Papst is connected to the PSU which having temperature controlled fan connectors driving the fans for some time even after turning off the system however the voltage then is quite low (4-5V)

I would not recommend turning off the chipset fan unless you change the heat sink.

I dont know anything about the panaflow. However the Papst 120mm 1600rpm are inaudible below 1200rpm the do make wind noise at full speed though. you can get the 120mm papst also in a 1100rpm variety. However, since these fans start spinnig around 3 volts I opted for the 1600rpm version so you have some backup power in case things get hot :-)