Soap

A good one that works well with windows media player 11. Thanks

What did you do to get it to work?

I've been looking at newegg at some of the LCD 19inch monitors there. I seen viewsonic's and liked what I saw and most reviews were overall good. I don't want to spend any more than $250.00 - $260.00. even cheaper without sacrafcing quality would be good too. Whats a good LCD gaming/movie monitor in that price range? Preferrably no ghosting, blurring, dead pixels, bleeding and etc. As always thanks for your help.

That is actually the route I've taken, I was just wondering about the PSU and video card. Yeah, I'll definitley be going with a 3700 clawhammer and a gig or two of OCZ's platnium DDR400 3200. I'll probably go with a couple of WD's IDE 300gig HD's. I'd like to some time down the road try the Raptor drives to see what all the buzz is about, but for now I'll stick with large IDE drives. Nforce 590 AM2 boards? Thats a ways off, no hurry for this upgrade route just yet. When I do it'll either be DFI's offering or ECS's offering. ECS's Nforce590 AM2 is feature rich and soooooo afordable, but thats much much later.

1. Will OCZ's Gamerstream 600watt PSU work with this board? I ask cause in the pics it has a 24 pin main connector, not sure if its compatible with the nf3 UT 250 board. 2. Will a newer agp video card work in these boards, like a, 7900gt preferrably? Thanks Allan/Soap

And, hows it doing?

For the sake of avoiding confusion and possible giving the wrong suggestions I'm gonna ask a question or two. I'm not sure so confirm this either way. Are you using a PCI network card to get your internet connection? So, if you are, then you shouldn't need either or any of the onboard lans enabled. Again, if so, disable all the onboard lans and I'm thinking this will help significantly. Well, actually you should first remove them through the device manager and then disable them in the bios.

Have you disabled both onboard lan's in the bios yet? If not do this, please. Or, if your using one lan disable the one lan your not using, in the bios is what I'm talking about. Either way. you have one of two things happening, which is, onboard lan creating a conflict windows is confused. Or, a driver conflict.

Whether you use a windows based defrag or some other software defrag, just defrag the thing, frequently. More often the better.

You've determined the stick is good. Don't mess with any additional memory settings just yet. Prime 95, although changes and improvements have been made, its still mostly an app to test the CPU. Forget prime 95 for now, BUT if you feel compelled to run prime 95 your gonna have to up the voltage on your CPU to successfully run through. If you don't have a good heatsink and fan cooling the CPU don't up the voltage. If you do, just increase it small increments at a time, run the app and see how it gets you and repeat till your golden. Be careful, this is how folks burn up their CPU's. When you up the voltage and DON'T notice it going any farther in the test, thats when you stop increasing the voltage, or you can get it to warm and possible burn it up. I usually reach this point and back it down an increment and check it with prime again, and if it runs fairly decent throughout the test, I leave it there and go with it. My current rig doesn't run prime 95 well at all, but my sticks pass mem test wonderfully, and I play games without any problems, a very stable DFI rig. Thats all I cared about, getting a mild OC on my sticks and CPU and I achieved that. Running prime successfully for hours on end wasn't all that significant to me. To each their own. I would check with the store or whomever you brought the ram sticks from and see what their policy is and rma the bad stick only, if possible. See, after all this you learned you don't have to buy another PSU and its only a faulty stick of ram.

Good job. Did you run some games with the good stick to see how it does? If it did fine, keep it and rma only the bad stick. If you bought them as a pair you may have to send both back. Call or e-mail them and see what they have to say regarding rma both sticks or just the bad one.

Heres a link to Happy's listed hardware he use with the N5 mobo. http://www.angrygames.com/nf590sli-1.htm

For now, for the sake of not having to many things going on at once, one thing at a time. Lets not use, "prime 95" lets just focus on running mem test to determine if the stick or sticks are bad first, then go from there. Run mem test overnight. Start it, and go to bed and check it in the morning. You need to run your memory voltage at 2.17 and set the memory settings to whats listed on the module. Should be a sticker or something on the module that lists this. OR, you may have to loosen it up abit to give yourself some playing room to work with. Either way, if most if not all efforts don't cause the stick to not pass mem test, its clearly bad ram. If it is bad ram, don't let it frustrate you to much. Send it back and try again. Hint: Use the exact same ram "happy" used in his tesing of the board. It would sure make it alittle easier on your self. I'm sure theres either a thread or post that he shared all that info in somewhere around here. It might serve you well to check it out and read it just to see what hardware he used with the board.

Yes, my bad, I have no idea what I was thinking, I see their running XP, sorry.

As the pc is booting up hit the delete button a fews times before windows loads up and this should get you into bios. Once there enabled your onboard audio, save exit and enter into windows. Windows will say its detected a new piece of hardware. Use the disk that came with the board and inevitably load the driver. Reboot and you should have sound.