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Single loop for 3570K in 800D


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By tomorrow afternoon I'll have my sig rig assembled. I'm just waiting on a water cooling solution. I really like everything about the XSPC Rasa kits, except the fans and fittings. I would like to piece together my own beginners CPU loop, but I don't know exactly what I'll need.

 

I'm looking to assemble:

  • Single loop
  • Triple radiator
  • Pump/Res dual 5.25 bay
  • Compression fittings
  • Black tubing
  • Quiet-ish white/orange fans
  • Matte black as possible

This is what I've thrown together to start:

  • $56 - Black Ice Pro III Compact High Performance
  • $50 - XSPC X20 750 Dual 5.25 Bay Res/Pump
  • $45 - XSPC RASA Ultimate
  • $33 - Bit Fenix Spectre White (x3)
  • $32 - BitsPower Ultimate Comp Fittings G1/4 3/8id;1/2od (x4)
  • $30 - PrimoChill PrimoFlex Pro LRT Tubing 3/8id;1/2od;1/16wall (15ft)
  • $24 - BitsPower Single Rotary 45deg Comp Fittings G1/4 3/8id;1/2od (x2)
  • $20 - Scythe KAZE-Q 8 Channel Fan Controller

Total: $291

 

What's wrong with it? What don't I need? How can I cut back to save money? Will the rad fit?

I was hoping to keep it under $200, is that unrealistic with what I want? Should I just buy the Rasa RS360 and black tubing and black compression fittings?

 

Thanks in advance!

Edited by tbris84

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Well you have a scratch overclocker here on the horn so check out what i have found.

 

As far as the obsidiob 800d containing a triple radiator i beleive its possible. Have not done it myself but if its been done before it can be redone.

 

There seems to be nothing wrong with the build. Maybe missing some fittings but i am on an android that does not like to multitask. Just make sure you have 6 male fittings for every inlet and outlet. And if yoy are going to do a triple rad with a bag res i would get just one 90' rotary fitting for the radiator to pump hose as that can be a tight spot.

 

If you are looking to cut back on the cost seek out alphacool regular and rotory fittings. They are a fraction of the cost compaired to other fittings and there quality is nearly as good as the more expensive bitspower fittings. If you want to keep cost down more either get away from compressiin fittings or you can go with xspc compression fittings that are of good quality and much more affordable. Those two items right there will cut the fitting cost in half.just if you do steer from compression fittings get some worm drive clamp and make sure every fitting is tied downwell.

 

The fans can be changed to a yate loon 120-25 medium or slow speed to reduce cost. I know you are wanting to have orange on white fans but i convey that option for money saving reasons.

 

I have ran both surgical, colored, anti bio-microbial and all kinds of tubing.... Except neoprene. What i like to use is the duralene pvc tubing. Its just the quality of everything else imho and runs $6 for a ten feet run rather then 30-60 for a ten foot run. Sidewindercomputers.com has the stuff always available. And also about the tubing size i would rather see you use 1/2 by 3/4 tubing just for the added tube wall. Alot more durable and does not kink near as easily.

 

Last but not least you need a corrosion ans algae preventer. One of two options is a silver kill coil that you can place in your res or some pt nuke that you can place in the liquid.

 

That should about cover it. Let me know if you need help building it.

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Well you have a scratch overclocker here on the horn so check out what i have found.

 

As far as the obsidiob 800d containing a triple radiator i beleive its possible. Have not done it myself but if its been done before it can be redone.

 

There seems to be nothing wrong with the build. Maybe missing some fittings but i am on an android that does not like to multitask. Just make sure you have 6 male fittings for every inlet and outlet. And if yoy are going to do a triple rad with a bag res i would get just one 90' rotary fitting for the radiator to pump hose as that can be a tight spot.

 

If you are looking to cut back on the cost seek out alphacool regular and rotory fittings. They are a fraction of the cost compaired to other fittings and there quality is nearly as good as the more expensive bitspower fittings. If you want to keep cost down more either get away from compressiin fittings or you can go with xspc compression fittings that are of good quality and much more affordable. Those two items right there will cut the fitting cost in half.just if you do steer from compression fittings get some worm drive clamp and make sure every fitting is tied downwell.

 

The fans can be changed to a yate loon 120-25 medium or slow speed to reduce cost. I know you are wanting to have orange on white fans but i convey that option for money saving reasons.

 

I have ran both surgical, colored, anti bio-microbial and all kinds of tubing.... Except neoprene. What i like to use is the duralene pvc tubing. Its just the quality of everything else imho and runs $6 for a ten feet run rather then 30-60 for a ten foot run. Sidewindercomputers.com has the stuff always available. And also about the tubing size i would rather see you use 1/2 by 3/4 tubing just for the added tube wall. Alot more durable and does not kink near as easily.

 

Last but not least you need a corrosion ans algae preventer. One of two options is a silver kill coil that you can place in your res or some pt nuke that you can place in the liquid.

 

That should about cover it. Let me know if you need help building it.

 

Thanks for that info! I'm definitely cutting back in the fan and fan controller department and upping the tubing thickness. I didn't see any of that tubing you mentioned in black.

 

I've revised the build and removed the fan controller. Do I need PWM fans if I want a fan controller to adjust their speed?

 

 

 

Total: $237

 

Will all these parts mesh well together? Proper sizes and all that fun stuff.

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I'm rethinking this build again. Learned a little bit about WC today after doing a lot of reading. If I'm going to spend the money to do it, I might as well do it right the first time. Upping my budget to $350. Here is what I'm looking at so far. Parts list in a moment...

 

21o0rkm.jpg

 

Is this too simple for my CPU only loop?

 

I'm looking at a straight fitting exiting the pump/res, entering the rad through a 90degree fitting, exiting the rad through a 45degree fitting, entering the cpu block through a 45degree fitting, exiting the cpu block through a 90 degree fitting, and finally entering the pump/res through a straight fitting.

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what I would do first is turn the radiator around to where the barbs are at the front of the case. This will do a few things.

 

1: when removing the processor block everything just swings out of the way.

 

2: reduce the amount of angled rotary fittings to just one.

 

3: sense the motherboard and everything else will be easy to remove the loop will be easy and safe to maintain with the loop out of the way.

 

the second is the need for directed fittings when doing the set-up as I described becomes none existent.

 

Just keep this in mind. that will keep the cost down and simplify the loop as a whole.

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I would go with something that looks like this.

 

Make a photo thingy.jpg

 

Need just one 90' rotary fitting for the Raditor outlet to the Bay res inlet. Its a tight squeeze but its very worth it in the end.

 

For a bay res I would suggest staying away from XSPC products as they do not make a very good pump-res to attach a mcp35x or mcp655 too. this one would be much better monsoon.

 

Other then that your loop the way you had it would be great.

 

Enjoy.

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Oh, is the rad going to overlap the pump/res that much? won't i need a second 90degree for both the rad exits then?

 

33fbznl.jpg

Like this?

Which fitting would be angled? And 45 or 90?

Edited by tbris84

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33fbznl.jpg

Like this?

Which fitting would be angled? And 45 or 90?

I would have it flowing from res/pump to cpu to rad and back to res but thats the way boinker suggested and I agree with the set up.

 

Also +1 for the monsoon res.

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Setup 1

24zka4m.jpg

vs

Setup 2

154x2dd.jpg

 

Would Setup 1 really make working on/removing the MB difficult? I think S1 could be done with 0 angled fittings, larger bending radii.

Wouldn't Setup 2 require 2 90degree fittings exiting the radiator?

Edited by tbris84

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The second option would be best. For any kind of component change you can just simply swing the processor block and hoses out of the way and remove everything without an issue. To go with that it imho looks alot better. I have had loops in both fashions in the past and the second picture by far is the easiest to manage.

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