Krazyxazn's Watercooling Setup

[WhenKittensATK]

Photo Albums:

Lapping CPU Waterblock (June)

Lapping CPU (July)

Assembly (July)

 

 

I'm going to go with Design #1, but move the pump on top of the power supply. My 7/16" ID tubing really hates Swiftech's 1/2" Plastic Barbs, couldn't even get the tubing more than half way on there. So I'm just gonna order another pair of those EK 1/2" Barbs. That tubing is definitively not coming off once its on without pliers or cutting along the barb.

 

I like how the reservoir is mounted, its a combo of double sided tape and a screw + lock nut. So it's easily removable from the case for filling and draining.

 

If I do get a dremel, I plan on doing some cutting:

1. 
    
   
2. Cut a rectangle where the pre-drilled WC tubing exits are (Reason: They aren't aligned with the barbs on the radiator and give me a place to route radiator fan cables into the case)
   
3. Widen the motherboard tray cable cutouts
   
4. Cut off built-in metal tie downs on some areas of the case
   
5. Cut open a section off the rear side of the top 5.25" drive bay (unusable anyways due to how they did the front panel IO)
   
6. Side panel window (Might look something like this: http://min.us/mbFlZXM)
   
7. Cut off a piece of the side panel that can't fit due to rad-box mounting screws, so I can close the case.
   

 

After writing that last one, I think its no longer a maybe

Edited July 4, 2011 by Krazyxazn

[Boinker]

Want to buy a haf932????? Maybe a little easier to install if you pay to ship the dragon you have and mine ill trade straight across.

 

Well maybe. My sidepanel has not been completed.

[WhenKittensATK]

The leak test begins, it seems I installed the reservoir upside down The angled ramp is suppose to go upwards to direct the air bubbles to the top of the reservoir instead of down into the outtake

 

 

EDIT: Nevermind I installed it the right way the first time. I just emptied the loop and flipped the res and refilled it

 

===================

 

I went to gather some temps on Air Cooling:

 

CPU - Intel C2Q Q6600 G0 Stepping (3.4 GHz @ 1.42 V)

CPU Cooler - Xigmatek HDT-S1283

GPU - EVGA GTX 480 (stock)

GPU Cooler - Stock

 

OCCT's Power Supply Test (max temp after 6 mins): CPU = 77 C /// GPU = 105 C

3DMark Vantage (max temp): CPU = 61 C // GPU = 72 C

Score: P15887 3DMarks (Your Score is Low Compared to Similar Systems.)

 

Water Cooling installed, leaked test, and removed all air bubbles.

 

OCCT's Power Supply Test (max temp after 6 mins): CPU = 66/66/62/62 C /// GPU 59 C <-- Big improvement on both

3DMark Vantage (max temp): CPU = 56/52/49/49 C (Core 1/2/3/4) /// GPU = 54 C <-- Decent CPU improvement, but big improvement on GPU

 

===========

 

Going to do a fresh overclock of the system from stock settings after this. Seen some people get 3.4 -3.6 GHz on 1.3 - 1.35V.

Edited July 8, 2011 by Krazyxazn

[WhenKittensATK]

First rotary tool cuts ever with the Black & Decker RTX-6. I cut a piece of the side panel to go around the rad box screws. It's a little rough, but the surface of the cut is smooth so you can run your finger along it from any angle.

 

If anyone has tips for using a rotary tool, lmk.

 

So far I know (try to practice):

1) Hold firmly

2) Safety glasses

3) Don't move in the direction of the rotation

4) Don't press down with wheel cut-off, let the weight do the work

5) Take breaks for long cut jobs

 

I just need a better working surface. I clamped it to plywood and rested it against a garbage can.

[WhenKittensATK]

Should I have my radiator fans push or pull air?

 

====

 

After a long laborious overclock, I'm finally done (2 days of overclocking). The best I could manage was 410 FSB @ 9x (3.69 GHz) @ 1.6 V on my Intel C2Q Q6600 G0. 13 Hour Stress Test with no errors/warnings. I feel proud, this was my first solo overclock and seems to be a success, usually had a friend or two tell me how to do it.

 

Overclocking with this CPU and motherboard wasn't a fun process. It seems to have a lot of deadzones. Like at 340 FSB, no matter how high the voltage you put in, it would never boot into Windows. 340 FSB is underclocked btw. 420+ FSB was another deadzone for me (No matter how high the voltage it just wouldn't boot into Windows and the temps aren't even bad at 1.65 V). I was however able to boot 415 FSB, but I couldn't get it stable so I settled for 410 FSB.

 

Edited July 10, 2011 by Krazyxazn

[Waco]

What motherboard is that?

[WhenKittensATK]

Wah! The 8-Pin power slot on the GTX 480 pooped out. Going to try and get a RMA setup. Was only pushing 830 core / 1660 shader / 2125 memory @ 1.125V

 

Thank goodness it wasn't the Mobo or PSU, then I'd be screwed.

 

What motherboard is that?

Biostar TPower I45

Edited July 10, 2011 by Krazyxazn

[Waco]

Biostar TPower I45

Make sure you have a bit of air blowing over those northbridge/MOSFET heatsinks. I popped my old DFI board pushing my Q6600 under water.

 

Water makes it easy to find every little thing that can break - your GTX 480 blowing is testement to that. With temperatures being low it's easy to push parts further than they'd ever go on air.

[WhenKittensATK]

Make sure you have a bit of air blowing over those northbridge/MOSFET heatsinks. I popped my old DFI board pushing my Q6600 under water.

 

Water makes it easy to find every little thing that can break - your GTX 480 blowing is testement to that. With temperatures being low it's easy to push parts further than they'd ever go on air.

Currently have a 140mm case fan on top exhausting and 120mm side fan intake in that area (these are the Rosewill case fans, not really sure if they contribute much). The motherboard does come with an additional heatsink that you can mount a 60mm fan to. However the bearings in the old fan went bad. I forgot to reinstall it after I installed the loop.

 

Any suggestions on which thermal compound to use? Going to need to get some more.

Edited July 10, 2011 by Krazyxazn

[WhenKittensATK]

Some ideas on possible case mods. Looking to make it a little easier to wire cables.

 

Red Box = Cut out

Green Box = Flatten (grind/cut)

 

 

 

Edited July 19, 2011 by Krazyxazn

[Boinker]

I would do the one with the Window then I would also cut out the better part of the top of the case and make two blow holes up top if its not that big of a bother while you are waiting on a new GTX480.

[WhenKittensATK]

I could add another fan on the top of the case, if there was enough clearance with the front panel cables. It would however sit maybe 1/3 or 1/2 of the way inside the drive bay. Not sure if it will do any good there.

 

=====================

 

I'm wondering if I should mod in a 120mm fan intake on the front panel. If I did I would lose out the bottom drive bay. I could mount a 80mm and not use the bottom drive bay. However the only thing in there is the fan controller, so I'm not short on space.

 

Front Panel (stripped)

Front Panel with 120mm Fan (stripped)

Front Panel with 120mm Fan (with cover)

Front Panel with 80mm Fan (stripped)

 

I'll try and borrow the digital camera again, whenever I actually start modding, just in planning stage.

Edited July 25, 2011 by Krazyxazn