El_Capitan Posted April 14, 2011 Posted April 14, 2011 I got tacohunter's Palit GTX 570 Sonic Platinum with the de-wired fan today. I haven't tried it out, yet, but have already cut the fan cover with the fans in half. I'll be using one of the fans (the working one) to cool the VRM's. I'll also be re-using the full cover heatsink, but will need to cut a square to fit in the MCW80 universal water block. I'll probably be finished tomorrow or this weekend cutting off the square. All I've found were EK Thermal Pads, would they suffice? Also... 1mm, or .5mm? I'm figuring 1mm. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sticknstone Posted April 14, 2011 Posted April 14, 2011 Any tim is designed to aid in the transfer of heat from one surface to another by filling in gaps. Well when considering the purpose of the thermal pad I would examine the two surfaces being mated and make a choice based on the voids present. I would not recommend cutting the full cover heatsink because without contact to the water block copper the remaining fins are useless. The heat transfer method would change from conduction to convection. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
El_Capitan Posted April 14, 2011 Posted April 14, 2011 But the full cover heatsink doesn't come in contact with the copper at all... I think we're thinking of two different things. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Speedway Posted April 14, 2011 Posted April 14, 2011 Koolance also makes thermal padding replacement squares for their waterblocks. The grey pads I linked are the .5mm which is almost always recommended for the VRM's. I know I have always used these when covering the VRM's and have never had a problem. I actually use these to replace the crap thermal pads that come stock with any GPU's now when I redo the thermal paste for the stock air coolers! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
El_Capitan Posted April 14, 2011 Posted April 14, 2011 Thanks Speed! I'll try the Koolance .5mm's... Nevermind, I'm going with the EK .5mm's. The shipping costs and time take too long from Koolance. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waco Posted April 14, 2011 Posted April 14, 2011 (edited) Any tim is designed to aid in the transfer of heat from one surface to another by filling in gaps. Well when considering the purpose of the thermal pad I would examine the two surfaces being mated and make a choice based on the voids present. I would not recommend cutting the full cover heatsink because without contact to the water block copper the remaining fins are useless. The heat transfer method would change from conduction to convection. http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Palit/GeForce_GTX_570_Sonic_Platinum/4.html Looks like the components on the board are cooled by the stock heatsink exclusively without help from anything near the GPU itself (the stock GPU cooler is decoupled from everything already). A single fan should provide decent enough cooling for the VRMs and RAM based on the cooler design. Edited April 14, 2011 by Waco Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Speedway Posted April 14, 2011 Posted April 14, 2011 Thanks Speed! I'll try the Koolance .5mm's... Nevermind, I'm going with the EK .5mm's. The shipping costs and time take too long from Koolance. Yea, Koolance's shipping methods are expensive and slow! Which is why I usually get anything Koolance from an Ebay seller by the name of hellfire-pc, but I doubt he carries just the pads! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sticknstone Posted April 14, 2011 Posted April 14, 2011 I see the same heat plate cooling method waco. Reviews: February 2011 http://www.overclockersclub.com/reviews/palit_gtx_570_sonic_platinum/ Now consider a monster sandwich cooling solution of gpu to stock cooler (with copper and heat pipes) topped off with a water block. How could this work? Cut the aluminum fins only above the copper and heat pipes. Next examine the top surface of the heatsink because I don't think too much tim will be beneficial. Tap the threads of four #40 screws into the copper, avoiding the pipes, and secure the two together. The screws that come with the water block could also be used. stock+water block=monster cooler <--------Formula used to derive cooling solution Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waco Posted April 14, 2011 Posted April 14, 2011 I see the same heat plate cooling method waco. Reviews: February 2011 http://www.overclockersclub.com/reviews/palit_gtx_570_sonic_platinum/ Now consider a monster sandwich cooling solution of gpu to stock cooler (with copper and heat pipes) topped off with a water block. How could this work? Cut the aluminum fins only above the copper and heat pipes. Next examine the top surface of the heatsink because I don't think too much tim will be beneficial. Tap the threads of four #40 screws into the copper, avoiding the pipes, and secure the two together. The screws that come with the water block could also be used. stock+water block=monster cooler <--------Formula used to derive cooling solution That's an interesting idea. It'd still need a fan running but assuming you could get down to the base where the heatpipes attach (and if that surface is smooth) you could conceivably bolt the two together for better cooling. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sticknstone Posted April 14, 2011 Posted April 14, 2011 Another cooling design could be the removal of the heatsink and heat pipe assembly, and add the water block. With one fan on the right to cool the card while exhausting to the left out the case. The heat plate which is in contact with the mem etc.. would be cooled by the one fan. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waco Posted April 14, 2011 Posted April 14, 2011 Another cooling design could be the removal of the heatsink and heat pipe assembly, and add the water block. With one fan on the right to cool the card while exhausting to the left out the case. The heat plate which is in contact with the mem etc.. would be cooled by the one fan. I'm fairly sure that's what the OP had in mind. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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