I-7 940 OC help

[monkey_brain33]

Ok here is the thing,I am currently stationed in Iraq with nothing but bordum.A buddy of mine recently got me reintroduced to the PC world.When I say reintroduced I mean The last desktop I owned could hardly play dungeon keeper.

Well I recently decided to build a pc do to the fact that I want something thats mine.I have purchased all the hardware that is required and don't worry I did the research on the products.

The only thing I didn't catch was the memory(Corsair dominator 6G 1866Mhz)at latencies of 9-9-9-24 at 1.65V VDIMM.

My question is will an EVGA x58 run that and if so what about the CPU,Is it adjustable with overclocking,and will the heat start to factor in.

 

 

 

 

 

I would appreciate the help

Thanks

 

I f you need more details I can try and fiure it out

Edited April 27, 2009 by monkey_brain33

[MrAlex]

Yes...it should run just fine at those settings.

[Nuclear]

Your Dominator RAM will run just fine in that board, you should have no issues.

 

As for your overclocking and heat question. Every chip is different but the i7 chips all overclock very well when paired with a good, stable board like the eVGA x58 series. I'm not sure how far you are willing to push your system, but 4GHz stable out of that chip could be attainable..if not higher depending on your chip. Now, the i7 chips produce a lot of heat so you will need a very good cooler. Even the best air-coolers struggle to keep the temps down on an overclocked i7 system but it can be done. The stock voltage is ~1.2v, around 1.3v you'll normally see things really start to heat up and from there it just gets worse. From my expierence, most guys on air for 24/7 settings do not run more than 1.325v to keep the temps in a comfortable range. With a good water-cooling setup, which I would recommend, you can easily run up to ~1.425v and still have good loaded temps.

[monkey_brain33]

Is it possible to lower the timing without it becoming unstable.

[Nuclear]

Is it possible to lower the timing without it becoming unstable.

 

By timing do you mean RAM timings? If that is what you are asking...it depends. At 1866 you will probably need a good bit of voltage to drop the timings lower and chances are it will cause instability. If you were to drop the speed to 1600 or lower than you will have a greater chance of running tighter timings are the same voltage (may still need voltage bumps), but that's something you will need to play with. I would suggest using MemTest86 to stress your RAM and look for any issues. It can be a slow process but you will learn a lot about your RAM and what it could or potentially could not do.

[monkey_brain33]

By timing do you mean RAM timings? If that is what you are asking...it depends. At 1866 you will probably need a good bit of voltage to drop the timings lower and chances are it will cause instability. If you were to drop the speed to 1600 or lower than you will have a greater chance of running tighter timings are the same voltage (may still need voltage bumps), but that's something you will need to play with. I would suggest using MemTest86 to stress your RAM and look for any issues. It can be a slow process but you will learn a lot about your RAM and what it could or potentially could not do.

Yes thats what i meant sorry.And thanks for the advise.Do you have any suggestions on H2o cooling

[monkey_brain33]

By timing do you mean RAM timings? If that is what you are asking...it depends. At 1866 you will probably need a good bit of voltage to drop the timings lower and chances are it will cause instability. If you were to drop the speed to 1600 or lower than you will have a greater chance of running tighter timings are the same voltage (may still need voltage bumps), but that's something you will need to play with. I would suggest using MemTest86 to stress your RAM and look for any issues. It can be a slow process but you will learn a lot about your RAM and what it could or potentially could not do.

Yes thats what i meant sorry.And thanks for the advise.Do you have any suggestions on H2o cooling I would preferably would ;ike to go the custom route and have looked at a couple of web sites but when it come to fittings tube size and all the abbreviations on the web site has left me confused.

Edited April 27, 2009 by monkey_brain33

[wevsspot]

MB,

 

You are getting some very solid advice from Nuclear. On your questions concerning water cooling you have several different options. You can go with a pre-built kit (if you go this route I'd recommend that you don't consider anything other than kits from Swiftech or DangerDen).

 

Or you can build your own loop - which isn't as hard as you think.

 

If you want to build your own loop you'll need to research the availability of the following components;

 

cpu waterblock

pump

radiator

tubing

reservoir or t-line

 

Here are my recommendations for those components if you want to build yourself;

 

cpu waterblock - Heatkiller 3.0 or EK Supreme

pump - Swiftech MCP355 with custom top or MCP655 (with my preference going to the MCP655)

radiator - Swiftech MCR220-QP Res or XSPC RX240

tubing - 1/2" Tygon, Primochill or Clearflex

reservoir - Swiftech mirco res vs. 2

 

In addition to these components you'll need a couple of 120mm fans for the radiator

For coolant use distilled water and some additive for biocide and corrosion control

Clamps for your hoses

Edited April 27, 2009 by wevsspot

[Nuclear]

Yes thats what i meant sorry.And thanks for the advise.Do you have any suggestions on H2o cooling I would preferably would ;ike to go the custom route and have looked at a couple of web sites but when it come to fittings tube size and all the abbreviations on the web site has left me confused.

 

I understand. Looking at tubing sizes for the first time can be a little daunting. There are basically two sizes of tubing you'll want to stick with when water-cooling a PC, and they are either 3/8" ID or 1/2" ID tubing. The ID stands for "inside diameter" and the thus the larger the ID the larger the tubing. Tubing will listed with both "ID" and "OD" which stands for the outside diameter. You can take the difference of the two to find the overall tube thickness. Thicker tubing will be harder to bend but will be less suspect to kinking. I would recommend going with 1/2" ID 3/4" OD tubing, which is pretty standard. It provides a great bend radius and will flow enough water to keep things nice and cool.

 

As for a nice setup, it really depends on your budget. For a basic system I would recommend going with a single loop for CPU cooling only. You can always add componets and cool more, but a CPU only loop is a great place to start. For a nice starter system I would recommend the following:

 

CPU Block: EK-Supreme LT

Radiator: Swiftech MCR-220 dual 120MM

Pump: Swiftech MCP-355

Fans: 2 Yate Loon 120MM

Tubing: 1/2" ID 3/4" OD

 

With that setup you either run a reservoir to aid in filling the system, or you can run a T-line.

[wevsspot]

MB,

 

Just wanted you to know that Nuclear and me DID NOT collude on the parts recommendations!

 

Hopefully you'll feel pretty confident since both of our lists are almost identical.

[monkey_brain33]

MB,

 

Just wanted you to know that Nuclear and me DID NOT collude on the parts recommendations!

 

Hopefully you'll feel pretty confident since both of our lists are almost identical.

Wow this helps alot i have saved all the parts list and your recommendations thanks for all your help you and nuclear

[monkey_brain33]

I do have one more question I'm also interested in a full cover water block for my GTX 295. The few that I have seen didn't look to promising

Edited April 27, 2009 by monkey_brain33