Humbled and in need of help. Comp won't boot and some weird PS issues.

[LazrTekr]

I've had the machine up and running like a dream for the last 2 months and one day I went to power up using the hot key command and only got the front light panel for a split second. Tried again, same thing. Then (I should know better) I pressed the keys 4-5 times in a row, quickly and the machine booted fine. Shut the machine down sometime later and ran some errands. Came back and when I tried to boot, I got nothing. Opened the case and was only getting 5vsb light and no other. Tried an old 20 pin PS had around and fans came on and everything so I assumed bad PS (I didn't wait to see if machine booted and jumped the gun when the fans worked)

I went and got a 500w Ultra V Series PSU (my case is pretty unusual and not many supplies fit) and plugged it in with the same results. Only get the 5vsb light and no fans no boot no nothing. AARRRHHHGG!

So, I read the forums (New at this but not at Tech) and tried to clear the CMOS, no go. Tried to clear the CMOS for the 24 hours + and no go.

 

What is up here? Why do I get the fans and all to come on with a 20 pin but only the 5vsb with the 24 pin supplies?

 

If my BIOS is shot, which some posts are leading me to believe it is, how to I flash a dead board? I have a flash board at work but I don't thnk it will work on this board because it was used for 386 Mobo's and I don't think she'll take.

 

Any help, suggestions, lashings for stupidity or what not woudl be greatly apprediated.

 

Thanks in advance. From reading the forums I can see that I got a great board with great support from some pretty with-it techs. Gives me peace of mind!

 

Update!

 

I just read the post from ademcg and found this info.

 

Here is the way to read the Diagnostic LEDs.

 

4 LEDs on = Power applied, checking CPU

3 LEDs on = CPU has been detected OK, checking RAM

2 LEDs on = RAM has been detected OK, checking VGA

1 LED on = VGA has been detected OK, entering BIOS

0 LEDs on = System has booted to the Operating System.

 

As long as you are in the BIOS including running memtest from the BIOS option, there will be one LED on.

 

Example: If you are getting 3 LEDs on, it means the rig is having trouble detecting the RAM.

 

When I try the 20 pin PSU and lights and fans come on, it never goes beyond the 4 red diag lights......Please don't tell me it's the CPU or I'll choke on a turkey bone!

 

Thanks for the help peeps.

[tasr]

Never ever use a 20 pin PSU.

 

 

Get a PSU from recommend list. DFI Recommended Power Supplies If it is not here forget it.

[LazrTekr]

I only used the 20 pin to "test board" and the Antec 450 was running fine for 2 month prior to this so even though I understand the need for an "Authorized" PSU from this list, this doesn't explain why a 20 pin will get the lights and fans to come on, while 2 ATX PSU's that are 450w or above, one working with system prior, only gives the 5vsb. Physics would emply that this would be opposite; The machine would do more with a 24 pin than the 20 pin but this is not the case hence the "Weird" in the title of the post.

 

Please someone has had to have seen this before and can give me the quick (never!) answer. Anyway, I am going to try another PCI-E card that I have just to eliminate the GC and the problem.

 

Thanks all

[sswilson]

Do you still have the 20 pin PS kicking around?

 

Contrary to conventional wisdom a 20 pin PS seemed to help when I had a similar problem with the initial build of my current system.

 

My Modstream wouldn't post the board so I thought it was toast and slapped in a 20 pin 480W PS while I waited for the OCZ to be tested for RMA.

 

The 20 pin kept me going for a week and the OCZ was returned to me with no fault found. Plugged the OCZ back into the board and it worked like a charm.

 

Don't know for sure why it worked, but I know that everything had been hooked up (outside of the case) correctly, and I suspect that being able to get into bios with the 20 pin allowed me to reset whatever setting was preventing the post.

[LazrTekr]

Yeah got it here but it is only 300w and I don't really know how far I can get with it. Besides, when I do use it, get fans and the four red boot lights and that is all. No beeps, and it lies there like a glowing but nicely cooled dead fish.

 

thanks again guys for the replies. I need more than my brain to work through this...my brain is done!

[sswilson]

Does your new(er) 24 pin ps have the split plug?

 

You could try it using only the 20 pin portion just to try to get into bios.

 

(Like I said.... completely against conventional wisdom but it's what worked for me....).

[LazrTekr]

Yep, that is the really weird thing; Both of the ATX 24 pins are split and I have tried using just the 20pin portion on each and get the same results. No lights or fans, but us another straight 20 and I get it to react differently!?!?!?!?!?!

[sswilson]

Yep, sounds exactly like the issue I had with my initial build.... Wish I could tell you something other than what I already have, but unfortunately what seemed to get my system up and running was the 480W 20 pin.

 

The only other thing that comes to mind is the fact that the shop said they had to reset cmos on their test rig to get the OCZ to post their board.

 

Is it possible that there is something in the sensing circuitry of newer PS's which will only work after a cmos reset???? (pulling stuff out of my a$$ now `cause I never did figure out exactly why my system came back to life.... ).

 

That's the only other change that was made to get my rig up and running with the Modstream.

 

Do you have another rig you can try your PS on?

[Praz]

If you have done the 24 hour CMOS Clear as outlined in the thread and still have the same issue then a faulty component is most likely the problem. Without a psu that is known to be good and provide the proper power for your board it cannot be ruled out as the cause. What is also possible is that something happened to the original psu and because of that some other component is now damaged. Without spare parts to test with the only option is RMA. What to choose is up to you. Pick something and send it off. If faulty you'll be back in business. if not, you'll know that particular component is good and move on to the next one.

 

I realize this isn't the answer you are seeking. But if you have done the basic troubleshooting as described on this forum and still don't have a working system then there has to be a faulty component. Without spare parts to test with you will have to rely on the manufacturer of the individual components to test them for you.

[ganders75]

Just another comment on the PSU issue before you begin to RMA your different bits and pieces.

 

You are after some information on why 2 different PSU's might not be able to power your rig sufficiently. Your old PSU is below spec, that is pretty much a given. If it is not the SmartPower 2.0 variant, then it only has 20A on the +12V rail. This just isn't enough. The Ultra-V which you tested with as a second option has "just" enough (ie. it has 28A) on the +12V. As a comparison, the FX600-GLN in my sig has 4*18A split over the four rails, for a total of 72A.

[red930]

@LazrTekr

 

Unless and until you get a proper PSU for testing there's simply nothing that we can suggest you try.

 

We've put a lot of time and effort into the Recommended PSU list. It would be in your best interest to pay attention to that list.

[LazrTekr]

OK.... I’m now eating humble pie with a healthy side helping of my own words.

 

After a little research and a lot of thought, it seams that Antec's PSUs are notorious for the 5v dropping below 4.5, thus overloading the line and frying it out. That is why I could not get the machine to boot with the PSU that came with the case. As for the Ultra V, I determined that this was defective from the beginning and that is why it never worked. I bought it supposedly "Brand New" from someone off of Craig’s List and the box was admittedly cellophane shut when I picked it up, but upon further inspection, it appears as the box was opened from the bottom and there were obviously screws used to anchor the thing at one time. I would go over and raise hell (I know where the live because I picked it up and their house) but I am just happy to have my PC figured out.

 

Again, thanks all for the help and I will make sure I take and follow my own advise to customers..."Trust me I am the expert." I will certainly put more trust in you guys next time!